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Tuesday, February 14, 2012

For Sale: 1000 Seeds of Heirloom Mesculin Mix

1000 Seeds of Heirloom Mesculin Mix
 You get 1000 total seeds of the following mixed greens:
  • Red Salad Bowl
  • Black Seeded Simpson
  • Grand Rapids
  • Royal Oakleaf
  • Lolla Rosso
  • Ruby Red Leaf
  • Amish Deer Tongue
This is a great mix of heirloom lettuces I purchased in bulk for resale. These are sweet standard lettuces. 


There are no spicy greens in this mix. Plants mature between 35 and 70 days. You can pick them sooner for baby leaf mesculin salads. 


These are cool weather seeds and do best in temperatures of 75 or less degree days and cool nights.


Plant them about 1/4 deep and harvest at your choice. Make sure you pick the leaves or cut them 1 inch above the ground. They will keep growing back!





Some of the lettuces that are in the mix. You will have these different colors in your mesculin mix.


Red and Green Romaine in a  Container: Gary Pilarchik

Onions and Lettuce in a Container: Gary Pilarchik


Flame Loose Leaf Lettuce (Red Leaf with Green Stem Base)
75+ Seeds Packaged for 2012 for $1.75
Shipping Calculated at Check-Out
International Rates Apply






Simpson Loose Leaf Lettuce (Green)
75+ Seeds Packaged for 2012 for $1.50
Shipping Calculated at Check-Out
International Rates Apply






Red Romain Lettuce (Deep Red)
75+ Seeds Packaged for 2012 for $2.25
Shipping Calculated at Check-Out
International Rates Apply






Paris Island Romaine (Green)
75+ Seeds Packaged for 2012 for $1.50
Shipping Calculated at Check-Out
International Rates Apply






Ruby Red Loose Leaf (Red with Some Green Streaks)
75+ Seeds Packaged for 2012 for $1.75
Shipping Calculated at Check-Out
International Rates Apply







KNOL: How to Grow Green Beans and Other Beans: The Basics

Transfered from Google Knols to be stored on my blog.

Beans are easy to grow. They are typically drought tolerant and create their own nitrogen. Disease can be an issue when they are over crowded. The green bean is packed full of vitamins and can be grown in small spaces. There are 100's of kinds of beans. Why not have some fun and plant something beside the standard green bean? Did you know eating raw (uncooked) kindney beans can be harmful?

 

How to Grow Green Beans and Other Beans: The Basics

By Gary Pilarchik LCSW-C
 
 
To learn more bout all aspects of gardening, visit my blog The Rusted Vegetable Garden
 

Soil

Green beans (and most beans) like well drained fertile soil. The key to growing healthy bean plants is well drained soil. Wet soggy soil can lead to disease and seed rotting. The also prefer warm soil. Cold soil and cold days also promote seed rotting and the plant grows more slowly. The bottom line is they like the heat and they like their soil to dry quickly.
 
I question saying any vegetable prefers fertile soil. Isn't that a given? The more fertile the better for most plants. But for beans, if you only have good or average soil, they will do fine.  They use a bacteria to fix nitrogen from the air to their roots. This process occurs in most legumes or beans. They can get nutrients even if you don't have fertile soil.
 
It is also recommended you rotate you bean plantings, if not yearly, every three years. My experience leans toward every three years. I haven't had issue from planting in the same spot for several consecutive years. Again the bottom line for healty bean plants is pretty good warm soil that isn't too soggy.
 
 

Fertilizing

I have read two different themes around fertilizing. One is to use compost and 1-1-1 type ammendments and nothing more because they fix their own nitrogren. The other theme I have read is using a basic 10-10-10 fertilizer prior to planting.
 
My solution is a  small handful of 10-10-10 fertilizer lightly raked into the planting area when you plant the seeds. I also give them a drink of water soluble fertilizer at around 30 days of growth. I haven't had any issues or problems. If I have compost, I work it into my beds prior to planting anything. The key is to just plant them and give them a little something but don't over use a 10-10-10 fertilizer. A light sprinkle and rake is all they need around fertilizing.
 

Watering

A good soaking is needed when the seeds are first planted. Once the first leaves come through, a weekly watering is all they need when the day temperatures are in the 70' and low 80's. Water from the ground and thoroughly soak the garden bed. When the temperatures hit the high 80' and 90's, you will need to water them 2 times a week and maybe a third time if there hasn't been any rain. They are drought tolerant. Make sure you water them from the bottom and not top. Watering from the top, wetting leaves, and splashing soil around can lead to diseases.

 

 Planting Beans

There are basically two types of beans. There are bush beans and pole beans. Bush beans grow about knee high and stop. Bush beans do not need support. Pole beans can grow anywhere from 4 feet to 12 feet or longer. Many continue to grow until the die. They need support to manage the vine they produce. The varieties will vary but they are either bush type or pole type growers. 
 

Bush Beans

Plant bush bean seeds to 1 inch in depth and 2 inches apart. When the plants are 3-4 inches tall you should thin them to stand 4 inches apart. Plant bush beans in rows. Spacing between rows should be 1 1/2 to 2 feet. Most packages say 2 feet or a bit more but I haven't had a problem with rows that are 1 1/2 feet apart. Wider rows will give you more air circulation if disease is a problem in your area. I use raised beds and plant a lot of other vegetables more closely together then the package states. I have found with beans, that you really want to stay close to the planting guidelines. They really need the air circulation. Overcrowding (planting closer then recommended) not only promotes disease but promotes insect and pest damage. The spacing lets birds drop in for a bite to eat.
 

Pole Beans

Pole beans grow like vines. You will need some sort of support for them to grow up. You can plant them along a fence. You can create a wired mesh support that they can grow up. You can use 6 foot poles. You can create a stick tripod (tepee) for them to grow up. Anything will work.
 
 If you plant a row for climbing a fence or trellis, they should be planted 4 inches apart minimium. Some people suggest 10 inches depending on how vigorous the vine is.
 
If you are going to plant them to grow up a tripod of sticks (tepee) you should plant them in hills. You can form the tripod around the hill. The poles should be at least 6 feet high. You should  plant about 6 beans to a hill and thin to the 3 or 4 strongest plants. Hills should be spaced  2 1/2 to 3 feet apart.
 

Harvesting Beans

The key to harvesting beans is to harvest them frequently for the pods. If you are cooking the bean and not cooking the seeds, you want to harvest the beans before the seeds get large. You don't want the plant to direct it's energy to seed production. You want it to produce pods. The more you harvest the pods, the more pods will be produced.
 
If you are growing beans for the seeds, you want the pod to develop seeds. You can see the seeds swell in the pod. Pick them before the shell of the pod dries out if you are going to cook and eat the bean seeds fresh. If you are growing the beans for dried seeds let them dry on the plant. The pods will dry out and hold the dried beans for you. Pick them when fully dried. The pod will crumble when dry and you can collect and store the seeds.

KNOL: Planting Strawverries in a Strawberry Box (In Pictures)

Transfered from Google Knols to be stored on my blog.

Strawberries are a great fruit to have in your garden. They come early and can be quite rewarding. The rabbits love them as do the birds. This year my strawberries we ravaged by rabbits. The only thing I could do was replant my boxes. In a way it was good timing, the soil needed to be amended. I found plants on sale and replanted my strawberry box with a new variety.

Planting Strawberries in a Strawberry Box (In Pictures)

by Gary Pilarchik LCSW-C
 
Join my gardening blog: The Rusted Vegetable Garden
 
Well the rabbits defoliated my strawberries. I'll have very few to eat if any. The birds can now see the fruit like red blinking beacons from the sky.  A side note, the big stores are putting plants on sale. I picked up 5 strawberry plants for .75 cents each. Normally they are $3 or so. It is time to replant my strawberry box.



Step One: Remove, Loosen, and Amend the Soil

The soil was in this box for three years. I removed the damaged plants. I removed the soil and put it in a 18 gallon container I use for this purpose. I broke the soil up, added peat moss for moisture control, and some fertilizer. It was returned to the planting box.
 
The box I built. It is about 12 inches deep. This depth is sufficient to cut down on the frequency of needing to water it.
 

Old Plants Gone, Soil Loosened, Fertilized and Amended

 

Step Two: Lay Out Your Strawberries

The strawberries came in coconut husk containers. If you are burying the plants in their containers make sure the roots can grow throw them and nothing from the container appears above the surface. If you leave some of the peat moss container or husk above the ground, water will get wicked away from your plant's roots.
 
Space the strawberries out. You can see the approximate distance for spacing. Strawberries grow runners and will fill in the spaces between themselves and they will run to the ground.


 
The Five Orphans I got for .75 cents. Spaced as to be Planted.
 
 

Step Three: Plant the Stawberries without Burying the Crown

This step is very important. Of course you have to plant them but you must not bury the strawberry crown. If you do, the plant could die out. The crown is between my fingers and is typically the point where new leaves are just starting to grow. You can see a leaf by my index finger. The tip of the crown again, which is between my thumb and finger should be planted just above ground level.
 
 
The Crown is Between My Fingers. Don't Bury It. Keep it Above Ground.
 
 

Step Five: Water and Admire

After you have your plants in, give them a good soaking. You will notice some strawberries at the base of the container. They are left over the strawberries from the plants that were removed. The runners will reach the ground and start new plants for you. I decided to leave those plants there. Don't forget to admire your work. Enjoy!

Replanted! The Stragglers on the Bottom are Runners from the Replaced.
 


My Other Gardening Knols

 
Join My Garden Blog:The Rusted Garden
 
Sometimes the links below, by title, are defunct for unknown reasons.
Here is a main link, if one below is not active. This link is always active My Gardening Knols Direct Link 
 

 

 


My Gardening Recipe Knols

 

Monday, February 13, 2012

The Journal of a Reluctant Gardener: Prologue

I enjoy practicing writing. One day I may achieve something but today I enjoyed writing. This is a work of truth and fiction and I plan to write a story one blog entry at a time. I will add to it as I am inspired and edit it as I become aware. The main character... a gardener of course!

The Journal of a Reluctant Gardener

Prologue

     I’ve been gardening more years then I can remember. Time is a funny matter of perspective and memory. I measure my existence by the changing seasons while I watch life go on around me. I attempt to live by engaging life whenever I can. Sometimes I find myself watching too much and acting too little. Living is an action that takes effort. Even with intent, we don’t always have the strength for the full effort. We even lose our way, finding ourselves on some muddled path, engaging life in some nonsensical way. Getting off that path is always more difficult than finding it. A slap in the face, a cold pale of water or a hard look in the mirror would be a nice way to be ‘snapped out of it’ as a way to realize we need to get off that path. Sadly, it sometimes takes something tragic for us to make changes. Sometimes it takes something spiritual but most of the time it just takes effort at that moment when we  first notice.

     Our existence and opportunity to engage and live life is limited between birth and death. It isn’t the earth that really ages, it is us. Very little ultimately changes from earth to sky or between the rains and snows. The earth is a constant and although it shifts with quakes and storms; it stretches well beyond the flash of our lives. In the same breath of the fun childhood conversion of dog to human years; earth to human years must be nearly a thousand to one. The earth ages very little while we are alive. What we do during our God gifted time is held within our hands and shaped with our actions. The earth has time to sit and watch. We don’t but for those thoughtful occasions.

     I never thought much about death until my fortieth year. It was always a distant disbelief that happened to the aged or accidental. With age, at least I hope, comes wisdom about life and living. While we all exist, we must also understand how to live and engage life. I don’t expect to gain or learn everything about the wisdom of living just because I age, none of us should. There are some adults at fifty that are dimmed by the brilliance of a young adult. We should however try to understand, after each season, how to get a little bit better at living and engaging life. We aren’t potatoes growing in a field who are destined to continue to grow in a field because our parents grew in a field. We are potatoes that can put on ears, eyes, noses, mouths and other accessories. And more importantly we can use them as we wish.

     There are miracles to be found around us every day. Sadly, we often look for the water walkers or the potato chips that look like Jesus or related. Our eyes may be open but our heads often stay turned to the same focus point. We may never even realize why we choose to focus on the areas in which we look. But we do have to realize when it is time to look in other places. That, in part, is wisdom. Blinders can be worn and put there by others or they can be constructed in our minds. Sometimes wisdom and answers are found beneath and within a garden. Wisdom that is beyond what we see or what is growing around us. It is the kind of wisdom that can only be found in the actions of  the gardeners and their visitors; wisdom far beyond the old garden metaphors like the seed.

     Our lives can be compared to a seed, true. It is an overused metaphor that overly simplifies existence and yet it still fails to capture the act and perhaps even the art to living life. I believe God created the rules of the Universe which we call Nature. In his wisdom he allowed the Universe to evolve under Nature’s rules. We are unique with respect to how we and our planet evolved but the principles of Nature are always true, no matter where life exists or where life may be found.

    A seed’s growth is Nature or existence. Tending to that seed and creating the garden for it to grow in - is living life. Anyone can create a child. Nature, God’s rules, designed us and world that way. However, not everyone can raise a child well and with good intentions. There is a difference. That difference being our actions, intent and desire to do more good than harm. It is the way we choose to engage life and it is the way we choose to teach life to our children. It is a way to act and live.  A seed will grow if it is well cared for or neglected - as will a child. We choose everyday between the act of existing and the art of  living.

Copyright February 2012 Gary Pilarchik

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Herb Transplanting: Thyme and Oregano into Cups

Transplanting Herbs: Gary Pilarchik


I was excited to transplant the Oregano and Thyme. Not because of the process but because I decided to use my clear container 'greenhouse' idea to hold the transplants. Room (where to put my transplants) always becomes and issue during the Winter but I prefer to figure it rather than cut back.

I didn't divide the Oregano and Thyme plugs. I just put them into cups. They can be divided before or after going into the cups or left alone. It depends what you want to do with them.

The process is pretty easy. Label and put holes in the cups. Fill them about 1/3 the way up with decent garden soil. Drop in the root-ball and fill. Put them in a container and bottom water. Your done.


In pictures... First transplanting Thyme

Thyme to be Transplanted: Gary Pilarchik

A Pile of Thyme Plugs: Gary Pilarchik

1, 2, 3, 4 Thyme Transplanted: Gary Pilarchik

Thyme Transplanted and Watered: Gary Pilarchik


In pictures... The Oregano.


Oregano Plugs for Transplant: Gary Pilarchik
Same Quick Transplant Process for Oregano: Gary Pilarchik

My Oregan 'Greenhouse' to be: Gary Pilarchik

The transplanting process is quick and easy. Messy but it is an easy clean up. I will move the storage containers in and out of my house. I will probably hook up some grow lights in the garage and lay them across the tops of the containers. It won't be pefect because the lights will be a bit high above the plants but...


The Greenhouse:


The Herb Container Greenhouse: Gary Pilarchik