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Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Benefits of Pruning Peppers: Several Examples with Control Plants


Benefits of Pruning Peppers: 
Several Examples with Control Plants

There are several reasons you may prune peppers. One reason is to develop stronger sturdier stems. This helps plants manage high wind areas and better support heavy crops of peppers. Removing the main growing tip will also create more side-shoot growth in 98% of pepper varieties. I found a few that don't seem to like pruning like 'Banana' peppers. This will create a bushier plant that will branch out and flower more.  The more flowers, the greater the yield of peppers.

Pruning ultimately lets you make a stronger plant that produces more. I will be doing an ongoing series based on the peppers I am pruning. I will be using control groups when available. Here is what my original pruned peppers look like, about 1 month later after their initial pruning. They are compared to un-pruned peppers of the same variety.




Here is the original pruning video if you would like to see how it is done. Pruning can be done many many many ways. This is just one way that I prefer.




If you are growing peppers indoors it is important to know when to transplant them outdoors or into larger cups/pots. Peppers really like warmth and should go out in the garden when the temperatures no longer get below 50 degrees F. If they are in cups, transplant them when they look like this...





Good Luck with Your Garden, Gary (The Rusted Garden)


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Sunday, March 15, 2015

Pruning Pepper Transplants: Greater Yields, Stockier Plant, More Side-Shoots & No Flowers

Pruning Pepper Transplants: 
Greater Yields, Stockier Plant, More Side-Shoots & No Flowers 

Removing the main growing tip of your pepper plants will produce stronger stockier plants and increase the yield of each plant. You end up with a lot more side shoot growth which means more flowers and peppers. You don't want your transplants flowering indoors. Prune them. Let them work on stem strength and side shoot production while inside.

Typically, peppers are started 8-10 weeks indoors before they go outside into the garden. You can start them a lot sooner and prune them. You will have stronger plants that will bring you greater yields. When you start them earlier as I did, about 16 weeks before they will go outside, you need to prune them and remove the flowers.






Good Luck with Your Garden,
Gary (The Rusted Garden)


Join My New YouTube Channel Just for NEW Gardeners: My First Vegetable Garden

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Saturday, February 28, 2015

Everything You Need to Know About Starting Peas Indoors: It Can Be Done!

Everything You Need to Know About Starting Peas Indoors: It Can Be Done!


Peas are cool weather crops and need to be planted fairly early here in Maryland Zone 7. They prefer well drained soil and soil temperature that is 40 degrees or more. They do best when day temperatures don't get past 70ish degrees. So... I try and get mine outdoors in March. As of today, tomorrow will be March 1st and the ground is covered in snow and frozen. Losing most of March by waiting to plant peas directly in the ground, when the soil is ready, will really reduce my crop.


You can easily start peas indoors in peat pots or styro-foam cups. This will give you a 2-4 week jump on the season depending on the variety of peas you start. The video shows you how I seed start them and when they are ready to be moved into larger containers or outdoors. Remember plants that are started inside, need to be gradually introduced to the sun and temperatures. This is called hardening-off.


Peat pots work really well because you can plant the whole pot and not disturb the root systems. Peas will have strong long roots. If grown in the plastic cells, the will grow out the holes in the cell bottom. They have to be pulled back through that hole and often the roots get damaged. An eight ounce styro-foam cup provides enough room for the roots to grow. Just pop out the dirt plug from the cup and plant.

With the peat pots, the pot and plant go straight into containers or ground. I show you how to put them in a 5 gallon container. The process is essentially the same for putting them in the ground. You can plant them in a row if they are going into earth beds.




Good Luck with Your Garden,

Gary (The Rusted Garden)


Join My New YouTube Channel Just for NEW Gardeners: My First Vegetable Garden

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Saturday, February 21, 2015

Understanding the Difference Between Pea Types: Snow or Sugar, Snap and English or Shelling

Understanding the Difference Between Pea Types: 
Snow or Sugar, Snap and English or Shelling

There are many variations of the three categories or types. You can get variations that give you white or purple flowers, purple pods, wrinkled peas or dwarf varieties.  Maturity time can also vary by a few weeks.



However, many gardeners want to know: Did I get the flat peas for stir-fry? Are these edible pods? Why do some say Snow Sugar or Sugar Snap? What are shelling peas?

This video will explain the main types you would want to plant and grow in the garden. I hope this video helps you when you select your seeds.



Remembers peas like to planted when it is cool, the ground is about 40 degrees and they hate soggy soil!


Good Luck with Your Garden,
Gary (The Rusted Garden)


Join My New YouTube Channel Just for NEW Gardeners: My First Vegetable Garden

Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (5000+ Members!)
400+ HD Short and to Point Garden Videos: My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
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Monday, February 16, 2015

Purchase Calcium Nitrate to Help Manage Tomato Blossom End-Rot



About 350 grams of Calcium Nitrate 15.5-0-0
19% Calcium and water soluble
Cost $10.00 plus shipping 
 
Calcium Nitrate can be used to manage Blossom End-Rot

Calcium Nitrate is a water soluble form of Calcium (Ca) that you can make a spray with and spray on your plants to get them calcium, to help stop or prevent blossom end-rot. You should always make sure your soil has lime/calcium, but additional spraying can give your tomatoes the Ca they need if Blossom End-Rot appears.

Always test spray your plants before covering a plant with any new spray.
Wait 48 hours after testing a few leaves and if there is no damage, spray the plant.

A general recipe is 1 tablespoon of calcium nitrate per gallon of water
or 1 teaspoon per quart of water.

 
Click the picture to goto PURCHASING link.
http://therustedgarden.blogspot.com/p/100-cold-pressed-neem-oil-for-sale.html
About 350 grams of calcium nitrate.


 
The recipe is on the label and can be found on-line.
Always test spray this product on your plants.
 
This package of 350 grams will make about
19 gallons or 76 quarts of calcium nitrate solution
 
1 quart will cost about $8-$9 in a store when you by pre-made spray,
You can save over $600 by making your own as needed
 
I am only shipping in United States right now.
You can purchase my Calcium Nitrate Package through Paypal.


Good Luck with Your Garden,
Gary (The Rusted Garden)


Join My New YouTube Channel Just for NEW Gardeners: My First Vegetable Garden

Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (5000+ Members!)
400+ HD Short and to Point Garden Videos: My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest


Welcome Gardeners!