tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18481048312135701192024-03-17T23:02:37.969-04:00The Rusted Vegetable GardenThis is a highly active blog about all things vegetable gardening in Maryland (zone 7). It is loaded with pictures and addresses all vegetable gardening issues. I have added lots of how-to and tomato videos.The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.comBlogger1185125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-40385197231795466162023-10-13T09:27:00.004-04:002023-10-13T09:30:35.957-04:00Ep-5 How do You Start a Market Garden & Sell Your Produce: The Rusted Garden Homestead Podcast - All About Growing, Cooking, & Sharing Food <div><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Homestead podcast is all about sharing my passion for growing, cooking, and sharing food with family and friends. In this episode, I talk with my friend Erica Cody, a market gardener. Today we provide an introduction to small scale farming or market gardening. How do you get started!</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">New episodes will be launched on the 2nd and 4th Wednesday of each month. </span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Thanks! How to support...</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Homestead Podcast: </span><a href="https://www.buzzsprout.com/1846799/supporters/new" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.buzzsprout.com/1846799/supporters/new</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Host & Creator</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">More information about Gary Pilarchik...</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Journal Blog: </span><a href="https://therustedgarden.blogspot.com/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://therustedgarden.blogspot.com/</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop: </span><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.therustedgarden.com/</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden on Youtube: </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Follow Gary Pilarchik on Instagram: </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/therustedgarden/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.instagram.com/therustedgarden/</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Follow Gary Pilarchik on Threads: Search The Rusted Garden on Threads</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Guests & Cohosts</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Connect with Erica Cody...</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">About market gardening support...</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">marketfarmher@proton.me</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Interested in advertising or sponsoring a podcast?</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Contact The Rusted Garden at therustedgarden@gmail.com</span></div><div><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;"><br /></span></div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-59527948979346344402023-10-10T08:59:00.006-04:002023-10-10T09:02:32.384-04:00Ep-4 Putting Fall Garden Beds to Winter Rest/Amending & Making Garden Soups: The Rusted Garden Homestead: All About Growing, Cooking, & Sharing Food<div><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Homestead podcast is all about sharing my passion for growing, cooking, and sharing food with family and friends. In this episode, I talk with my friend Erica Jones, a master gardener and chef. Today we cover putting garden beds to rest in the fall. We go over basic amending and tucking the beds in for winter slumber. We also cover the basics for making garden soups. How do you get started!</span></div><div><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102);"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="color: #666666;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102);"><br /></span></span><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hhn2MQ1HVFfFvwKYBRdCDQPSZOHjmEQHDXtOVdKa1vUfwX2-3nnw4NmJE7E4faCvKP3ObhRtRRCDrGBUi-FAGOQXJG9ewRABIk54XPLnWi2pSQtbrstjbgiiXfhlbT-wMpsC3e0Qc7lZDt4VMZHAEMrF78SSA_llPNbqscjAoNAFws493hIlS-ycqKQ/s1074/SnapShot(139).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="793" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hhn2MQ1HVFfFvwKYBRdCDQPSZOHjmEQHDXtOVdKa1vUfwX2-3nnw4NmJE7E4faCvKP3ObhRtRRCDrGBUi-FAGOQXJG9ewRABIk54XPLnWi2pSQtbrstjbgiiXfhlbT-wMpsC3e0Qc7lZDt4VMZHAEMrF78SSA_llPNbqscjAoNAFws493hIlS-ycqKQ/w295-h400/SnapShot(139).jpg" width="295" /></a></div></span></div>
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<div><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white;"><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /></span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">New episodes will be launched on the 2nd and 4th Wednesday of each month. </span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Thanks! How to support...</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Homestead Podcast: </span><a href="https://www.buzzsprout.com/1846799/supporters/new" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.buzzsprout.com/1846799/supporters/new</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Host & Creator</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">More information about Gary Pilarchik...</span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Journal Blog: </span><a href="https://therustedgarden.blogspot.com/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://therustedgarden.blogspot.com/</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop: </span><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.therustedgarden.com/</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">The Rusted Garden on Youtube: </span><a href="https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;">Follow Gary Pilarchik on Instagram: </span><a href="https://www.instagram.com/therustedgarden/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); 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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-73171381186916323772023-10-03T10:26:00.003-04:002023-10-03T10:26:59.205-04:00The Under $10 Budget Low Tunnel Design: Grow Cool Weather Crops Into the WinterBEING WRITTEN NOW 10/3/2023<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHeDtQAQHGLXcM7H6uQP0N5h_dsksMmVKbfuNLIOvqUJ9aqButUV2LQhVa4Ly3SBmdm3qGnOEv76Rfs-E8JyacThJEsjanGH_Tal9GMUgZu0MNDAUP_yZwvhgQPoRAZyzfoix_-x3MMF8raXAJqv8ilnKHAQAVZQhiycbPqaQfVVM7-II2LDGybk0-iA/s5184/Cold%20Frame%20Budget%20Design%20Complete.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHeDtQAQHGLXcM7H6uQP0N5h_dsksMmVKbfuNLIOvqUJ9aqButUV2LQhVa4Ly3SBmdm3qGnOEv76Rfs-E8JyacThJEsjanGH_Tal9GMUgZu0MNDAUP_yZwvhgQPoRAZyzfoix_-x3MMF8raXAJqv8ilnKHAQAVZQhiycbPqaQfVVM7-II2LDGybk0-iA/s320/Cold%20Frame%20Budget%20Design%20Complete.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjyeRw35zZUDiy6rCJowUbrNOq4Zng_UfvLvvZIQXhA0hChx3AQaB-01JLfWMiSAJM9UikVWmFyrFX5EhGZaj2cwxBSNYYPixVfiH-W55lEE8HErHVT6JnR4A5EhUaE4Y6ItLAyjPlFiuf5Qvz-yOwoeRnQGBwy7YEXzumqe9EVTVbd-yM4tjuVm6fec/s5184/Cold%20Frame%20Flap.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjyeRw35zZUDiy6rCJowUbrNOq4Zng_UfvLvvZIQXhA0hChx3AQaB-01JLfWMiSAJM9UikVWmFyrFX5EhGZaj2cwxBSNYYPixVfiH-W55lEE8HErHVT6JnR4A5EhUaE4Y6ItLAyjPlFiuf5Qvz-yOwoeRnQGBwy7YEXzumqe9EVTVbd-yM4tjuVm6fec/s320/Cold%20Frame%20Flap.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcp9SFzULxIthi0KEfSF6guJfQ61mu8UOEL0iasGCyKDQfxq6HCIxLra0dovzff5vmJmaGBp-nse0Q82Rvgd4it2uwc2oigP4S1sPr-0UoPfv80eWPmBrjO9HylImopJ4LZW10XWXaqlbsc8dYsMx8_km_F3Yx3V9ldQjQD3-jnw2hNcyOQgRSSPq7bs/s5184/Cold%20Frame%20Plastic.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIcp9SFzULxIthi0KEfSF6guJfQ61mu8UOEL0iasGCyKDQfxq6HCIxLra0dovzff5vmJmaGBp-nse0Q82Rvgd4it2uwc2oigP4S1sPr-0UoPfv80eWPmBrjO9HylImopJ4LZW10XWXaqlbsc8dYsMx8_km_F3Yx3V9ldQjQD3-jnw2hNcyOQgRSSPq7bs/s320/Cold%20Frame%20Plastic.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcmgngYdGZsIJURKhDiXetLJBYk88xLd_Y_3FbFJeiyIKQe9UzrzkS7k1qGNeNCE3DQ_r2q0n7HKADtq5TtWAffumA9ZsdJ8zT02O1C6fCME4VsgkWCL99Nd-WwfFK7EUU8GC59E_cBv56AnmAGZGsJEMbE-nMh4W9-CKj4UKD_CS__4kbOE3wWOY9Rs/s5184/Cold%20Frame%20Rope%20Tie%20Off.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpcmgngYdGZsIJURKhDiXetLJBYk88xLd_Y_3FbFJeiyIKQe9UzrzkS7k1qGNeNCE3DQ_r2q0n7HKADtq5TtWAffumA9ZsdJ8zT02O1C6fCME4VsgkWCL99Nd-WwfFK7EUU8GC59E_cBv56AnmAGZGsJEMbE-nMh4W9-CKj4UKD_CS__4kbOE3wWOY9Rs/s320/Cold%20Frame%20Rope%20Tie%20Off.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibjb4T6KtaUo_JwN6pFaJy8UwMKCMt6e04DE9g8xYrRCHWFZ9xJFKGRmLYM4YQIivV4RqNG_XPt8JIRKZtwHi2L0c9QC2NHWB9y11MfNRSJPVG321sAgQCO_g9VIu4AzlnsAx69QnhIuNUVU4Iou9DkwYtyzSk2X9QNg2C5ja6VgmKZIu7We4e0VqTyf0/s5184/Cold%20Frame%20Tree%20Branch%20Supports.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibjb4T6KtaUo_JwN6pFaJy8UwMKCMt6e04DE9g8xYrRCHWFZ9xJFKGRmLYM4YQIivV4RqNG_XPt8JIRKZtwHi2L0c9QC2NHWB9y11MfNRSJPVG321sAgQCO_g9VIu4AzlnsAx69QnhIuNUVU4Iou9DkwYtyzSk2X9QNg2C5ja6VgmKZIu7We4e0VqTyf0/s320/Cold%20Frame%20Tree%20Branch%20Supports.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><br />
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Visit The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop <br />for your Seeds, Starting Supplies,
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-32126231934032966432023-09-22T16:09:00.011-04:002023-09-24T11:47:28.982-04:00Garden PVC Pipe Design With 3 Uses: Low Tunnel Frost Protecting, Garden Trellising, and Shade Cloth Sun Barrier
<center><br /></center><center><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;">When I create something for my garden, I try and follow two rules when I design. It should be easy to assembly, take down, and store. It should also solve several problems when possible. This project meets those rules. </div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsKTlsNWHloSNKrY6Umzl1gaIJgph0bFak4Eog-tUPAMuhJjBSLMeBo0dTr4vnFTL5-Hcu6oiYv06vqf0glnWBMeKuQiGdlZFzqfYLfam3Noscl5Ctq7p3dwPE1K74utmnspaECmkbqam8YR5YuJe8kBjqZ5jHXGiZEarbgkubf4BNG8hneRxeKb3YDZA/s5184/PVC%20Frame%203%20Ribbed%20and%20Bar.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsKTlsNWHloSNKrY6Umzl1gaIJgph0bFak4Eog-tUPAMuhJjBSLMeBo0dTr4vnFTL5-Hcu6oiYv06vqf0glnWBMeKuQiGdlZFzqfYLfam3Noscl5Ctq7p3dwPE1K74utmnspaECmkbqam8YR5YuJe8kBjqZ5jHXGiZEarbgkubf4BNG8hneRxeKb3YDZA/w400-h225/PVC%20Frame%203%20Ribbed%20and%20Bar.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garden PVC Pipe Low Tunnel</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>The rib design requires a mallet and bending PVC pipe. Each rib can be set up or taken down in under 2 minutes. The low tunnel frame work can be used to hold plastic, as a mini-greenhouse, for starting crops earlier in the season or for extending the season into the winter. The plastic can be swapped out for shade cloth to prolong the growing period of cool crops or as a way to reduce the heat of the midsummer sun and keep warm crops producing. You can also use agfabric or insect fabric on the design, to protect crops from insect pests like cabbage worms. </div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRjNBT9-ndF2NbatLpkDY3TgHHKCxlAzsmjIsqXS-hzwSYujSVRP8lIpZxAiuG96z9xe6D6CDXXnd5kw3zV_OHry3aMnztNS7_c0ysFjFsOcA2yx0Ks5eQD_BOcbB_UqNYxop_kJEVO-IQ-AupSFVeWfVMjggamvzx1SjaIXF9fwj2h8LxIOe_B9dsyc/s5184/PVC%20Frame%20as%20Trellis.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRjNBT9-ndF2NbatLpkDY3TgHHKCxlAzsmjIsqXS-hzwSYujSVRP8lIpZxAiuG96z9xe6D6CDXXnd5kw3zV_OHry3aMnztNS7_c0ysFjFsOcA2yx0Ks5eQD_BOcbB_UqNYxop_kJEVO-IQ-AupSFVeWfVMjggamvzx1SjaIXF9fwj2h8LxIOe_B9dsyc/w400-h225/PVC%20Frame%20as%20Trellis.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Materials for Low Tunnel<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="469" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtmh2vxCS8pvV6pgKtXQL-V_vUCesszvj0KoT5IYsvOkT0ZxC5dL4Xu9we_oOU2JMce4VEZVUgcROKqOkyYGXFpveOgTjxmQX-tvsKhHfGDd-ecOGtmsBCKgphPUDXryl0ig6Lubw3uamrUY98w-nvgn_4m7RKszVamSHxsYHHQdHfMCVcwfOs032ax2s/w400-h400/Shirt-LimitedEdition_600x600.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Limited Edition TRG Shirts at My Shop</a></td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;">Space the ribs 2-3 feet a part. The video show you how to build it in more detail, but just hammer in the rebar to at least 1/2 its length and drop the rebar on. I will be doing a future post and video on how to put on the plastic when that time arrives for my garden. There are dozens of ways to do it, once you create the framework. I have over 1500 garden videos if you want to follow me on my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN" target="_blank">YouTube channel: The Rusted Garden</a>.</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Materials</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: start;"><b>PVC Pipe</b></div><div style="text-align: start;">8-10 foot pieces of 1/2 inch PVC </div><div style="text-align: start;">3 pieces will create 3 ribs and additional piece is needed if you want to use a piece across the top</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><b>Rebar</b></div><div style="text-align: start;">18-24 inch pieces of rebar</div><div style="text-align: start;">You will need 2 pieces for each rib placement</div><div style="text-align: start;">(The rebar should be smaller than the opening of the PVC pipe)</div><div style="text-align: start;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: start;"><b>Wire or Rope</b></div><div style="text-align: start;">Used to secure support pipes</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><b>Greenhouse Plastic or Painters Tarp </b></div><div style="text-align: start;">Enough to cover the frame and leave 2 feet on each side</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><b>Shade Cloth</b></div><div style="text-align: start;">Enough to cover the top of the frame and cover 1/2 down each side</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><b>Insect Fabric</b></div><div style="text-align: start;">Enough to full cover the sides and opening on both ends</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0TrmmsaGLrAooNq07_W0_F-Rrt89x4BylbiRVGu8fFJ2yC4WTc4GrMJcAIfQt0RWwYgEd9eweB250EJhE6872vcDeqv_3m6bbWzJz9lxpcMzECg5dvqaxChvOT4AEnC9Ek3Ov1dOcAMTPqkgPuspv1Wy1F6oVuA7Ojq6Egw7Vj_wwQ6UBNcLloNy-9E4/s5184/PVC%20Rebar%20Examples%20and%20Mallet.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0TrmmsaGLrAooNq07_W0_F-Rrt89x4BylbiRVGu8fFJ2yC4WTc4GrMJcAIfQt0RWwYgEd9eweB250EJhE6872vcDeqv_3m6bbWzJz9lxpcMzECg5dvqaxChvOT4AEnC9Ek3Ov1dOcAMTPqkgPuspv1Wy1F6oVuA7Ojq6Egw7Vj_wwQ6UBNcLloNy-9E4/s320/PVC%20Rebar%20Examples%20and%20Mallet.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mallet and Rebar</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY86_Uu83vgLPVJVNOUaFVjfzxV-PBmsxJAWibZc6_dEdcPr5v1__kaEkW8L27nfi-8V4lm-v5bUu7LnPwgA4QElQAHzBYqb75c95NGrdlytFTsIRMwDejr7gc_Z2wLHLF77L5mf9OD9FNkQqBsQ5C2rTBM8ehASvy3z85Au95QrWLE3VZKWXKPwZj8CY/s5184/PVC%20Frame%20Pipe%20and%20Rebar%20Insert.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY86_Uu83vgLPVJVNOUaFVjfzxV-PBmsxJAWibZc6_dEdcPr5v1__kaEkW8L27nfi-8V4lm-v5bUu7LnPwgA4QElQAHzBYqb75c95NGrdlytFTsIRMwDejr7gc_Z2wLHLF77L5mf9OD9FNkQqBsQ5C2rTBM8ehASvy3z85Au95QrWLE3VZKWXKPwZj8CY/w400-h225/PVC%20Frame%20Pipe%20and%20Rebar%20Insert.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rebar and PVC Pipe</td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyi_pDleckX7Q7njj1wUPycZhPvVIoxSGcw7rv4SVwV-HaKem1zKruG21v6lJGE5Bwm0l8kHXG6rjptC3AvsftXCb_ylFGsaw9bb-JUau8iC-yXdhd7ahfaeOySpjiX7QevMINz0uR7nAwCE7IsxwuBJDIkDJzdWWV8TVfQCMvqZTbi_IjmUf0wcOhTQ/s5184/PVC%20Frame%20Wire%20Tie.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyyi_pDleckX7Q7njj1wUPycZhPvVIoxSGcw7rv4SVwV-HaKem1zKruG21v6lJGE5Bwm0l8kHXG6rjptC3AvsftXCb_ylFGsaw9bb-JUau8iC-yXdhd7ahfaeOySpjiX7QevMINz0uR7nAwCE7IsxwuBJDIkDJzdWWV8TVfQCMvqZTbi_IjmUf0wcOhTQ/s320/PVC%20Frame%20Wire%20Tie.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Securing PVC Piping</td></tr></tbody></table><center><br /></center><center><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">I will be putting on the plastic in about 4 weeks, late October. The frame itself can be left up all season long and the 'rainbow' ribs can be strung and used as a trellis. I like that this design can stay out all year or the PVC pipe can be popped off the rebar and easily stored. The rebar could remain in the ground but it is also easily removed. </center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Shade cloth allows you to keep the soil cooler which means cool crops won't flower and bolt and warm crops won't shut down, due to high soil temperatures, and stop producing. The ribs (below), could have cucumbers all over them with shade cloth protecting them from late July's sun. The design is versatile. </center><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEV-DI7XAAGtmCSjdTNlP8tyu6pg5DxQoVtRV1_6B7SjNxJuYMAhVCBMumy5Kcf18k_63TPkLBG6_rDcqj2TSG9zJMLD7GejYrX_LUDCUfyTRtEGv7vX8isuqpWmU8fvmut0TexiRLQzuLdco1FDmAHrl1BIt1aYgdOYmla_SQRhbNFKG8wh38jXJiuo/s5184/PVC%20Shade%20Cloth%20Use.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdEV-DI7XAAGtmCSjdTNlP8tyu6pg5DxQoVtRV1_6B7SjNxJuYMAhVCBMumy5Kcf18k_63TPkLBG6_rDcqj2TSG9zJMLD7GejYrX_LUDCUfyTRtEGv7vX8isuqpWmU8fvmut0TexiRLQzuLdco1FDmAHrl1BIt1aYgdOYmla_SQRhbNFKG8wh38jXJiuo/w400-h225/PVC%20Shade%20Cloth%20Use.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shade Cloth Extends Seasons & Maintains Growth</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: start;">"A Garden Wants to Give"</div><div style="text-align: start;">Cheers,</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: start;">Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div style="text-align: start;"><br /></div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-68920856244668250152023-09-15T10:06:00.006-04:002023-09-15T11:22:05.601-04:00How to Grow Fruits, Vegetables & Herbs 365 Days a Year in a Sunglo Greenhouse: Increase Summer Crop Yields & Grow in the Dead of Winter<center><br /></center><center><br /></center><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="925" data-original-width="1200" height="309" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZ_GJ6oAPhrRVSFLj4V85OAys0WpiUsZGnegf3jNHDd4IyrE06BvOJZGvusdtrCyGbz7GR8oAJcrmQP-InErKwziBlKU5oRpLYkdOjyJY_ZSV2EqA06ZYrysWsQaCqBLMP1nIvOTx0CYXxc-9LDIk-_TwvjYtIrSjflpOE4KPj7CrhCRLPiLRp24wOo4/w400-h309/Model-1000-image-4%20(2).jpg" title="Sunglo Greenhouse for 4 Season Growing" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Sunglo Greenhouses for 4 Season Growing</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br />Imagine stepping into a world where the changing seasons no longer dictate when you can enjoy fresh, homegrown vegetables. Thanks to <a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Sunglo Greenhouses,</a> this vision is becoming a reality for greenhouse enthusiasts. Let’s delve into how a Sunglo Greenhouse Kit can help you cultivate a diverse array of vegetables year-round.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiRHeY3lQ-Y_06h7o3zVVQo4qyItOgvfgRw-QnHrpSPzDp4Njw0NN6gf7bW0JIQOGz4DtdRuU94mSSfdjpHRsBYwOvvjYpQn2wpHBjfPjiiffy_4-c7ICbh_DIFtR9Egd6W_li_nJ8OHev8t9vMlzR8ylFTzxl_WxdcUFjhAL90oaRFkA54gIC2zon7ag/w640-h480/10x15%20Winter%20Kit.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Plenty of Space for Your Growing Needs</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div><br />A <a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Sunglo Greenhouse </a>will increase your tomato and other vegetable yields because you can start growing earlier and later into the season. Sunglo Greenhouses are designed for growing food through the entire year, even in the coldest winters.<br /><br /><b>Tailored Growing Environments</b><br /><br />A typical planting calendar offers a wealth of knowledge about optimal planting times for various vegetables and herbs. However, these recommendations often hinge on weather conditions that can be unpredictable and harsh, especially during extreme seasons. This is where Sunglo Greenhouses come into play. These meticulously designed greenhouse kits allow you to create and maintain tailored growing environments, ensuring that your plants thrive regardless of the external climate.<br /><b><br />Extending the Growing Season</b><br /><br />The planting calendar outlines when to sow seeds, transplant, and harvest, taking into account temperature, light, and other environmental factors. By harnessing the climate control capabilities of Sunglo Greenhouses, you can extend growing seasons well beyond what traditional outdoor gardening allows. Want to harvest vine-ripened tomatoes in the middle of winter or enjoy crisp lettuce during the heat of summer? With a Sunglo Greenhouse, you’re no longer confined to nature’s limitations.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img height="300" src="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/Susan-winter-crop.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/" target="_blank">Grow All Year Long</a></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><b>Protection from Adverse Elements</b><br /><br />Mother Nature can be unpredictable, and sudden weather changes, pests, and diseases can wreak havoc on your outdoor crops. Sunglo Greenhouses act as a protective shield, safeguarding your plants from these external threats. This means fewer setbacks due to frost, severe storms, pests, and other factors that can derail outdoor gardening efforts. With the greenhouse’s sturdy construction and advanced features, you can rest assured that your vegetables are growing in a safe and controlled environment.<br /><b><br />Energy Efficiency and Sustainability</b><br /><br />Sunglo Greenhouses are designed with energy efficiency and sustainability in mind. The use of double-wall acrylic plant friendly panels, proper active ventilation systems, and optional geothermal and infrared heat to reduce energy consumption. By minimizing your environmental footprint, you’re not only growing fresh produce year-round but also doing so in an environmentally responsible manner.<br /><b><br />Personalized Greenhouse Solutions</b><br /><br />Sunglo backyard greenhouse kits come in various sizes and options, specifically catering to the needs of home gardeners. Whether you have a small backyard or a larger yard, there’s a Sunglo Greenhouse that suits your requirements. This adaptability allows you to tailor your greenhouse to the crops you intend to grow, making it a versatile and personalized solution.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank"><img height="400" src="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/IDgThbEwVEq2u8WBRNyq-1.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><b><br />What can I grow in winter?</b><br /><br />Vegetable crops can be broken down into two main categories, cool season & warm season. These two categories help a gardener better understand when to plant as well as what conditions they prefer to grow in. <br /><br />Cool season vegetables prefer lower daytime temperatures that typically occur during the early spring, fall, and winter. Vegetables that grow best between 40F and 70F are considered Cool-Season crops. A few cool season varieties will even tolerate light frosts which can improve the flavor and quality.<br /><br />With a <a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Sunglo Greenhouse</a> you will be able to easily grow Cool-Season vegetables seven months out of the year. When outside temperatures begin to drop, cold hardy and frost-tender vegetables will continue to thrive and produce food inside a Sunglo Greenhouse. The double-wall acrylic panels of a Sunglo provide enough insulation to minimize the energy cost of a heater. If your goal is to produce Cool-Season vegetables through the winter we highly recommend you add the ‘Winter Package’ to the greenhouse. With the addition of insulation by using a third layer of acrylic, an infrared heater, and our exclusive geothermal raised beds (GAHT® Lite) you can produce food in winter even when outside temperatures are below zero degrees.<br /><br />Here is a list of Cool-Season Vegetables that can easily be grown inside a Sunglo Greenhouse throughout fall, winter, and spring:</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank"><img height="300" src="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Susan-2023-winter.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Grow Food All Winter Long in Sunglo Greenhouse</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Asparagus<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Beets<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-left: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Bok Choi<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Broccoli<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Brussels
Sprouts<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Cabbage<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Carrots<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Cauliflower<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Celery<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; height: 16.6pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Chard<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; height: 16.6pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Asian Cabbage<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; height: 16.6pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Daikon<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Endive<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Escarole<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Garlic<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Kale<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Kohlrabi<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Leeks<o:p></o:p></p>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Lettuce<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Mustard
Greens<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Parsley<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Parsnips<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Peas<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Radishes<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
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</tbody></table><br /><br /></div><div>In contrast, warm season vegetables require long days, high light, and temperatures from 55F to 85F to grow best. With a<a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/"> </a><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Sunglo Greenhouse </a>you will be able to successfully grow Warm-Season vegetables April through October but you can also easily grow warm-season vegetable plants inside a Sunglo Greenhouse over winter. However, you can expect yields to decline in the depths of winter (Late December- Mid February). These vegetables depend upon both high air temperatures and soil temperatures so growing these crops in the short days of winter typically requires a large use of energy. The Sunglo Winter Package is even more important for Warm-Season vegetables because it minimizes the energy costs needed to achieve these higher temperatures. Grow lights are also necessary to provide additional light to allow for eight and sixteen hours per day of light, every day. Hand pollination will also be required.</div><div><br />It is important to note that warm-season crops are not compatible with growing cool-season crops due to the differing temperature and light requirements discussed so you need to choose between cold or warm season vegetables upfront.<br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/" target="_blank"><img height="300" src="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/20230901_183841-1024x768.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/" target="_blank">Increase Tomato & Vegetable Yields in a Sunglo Greenhouse</a></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br />Here is a list of some Warm-Season Vegetables that can easily be grown inside a Sunglo Greenhouse throughout spring, summer, fall, and winter:</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: medium; text-align: left;">
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Cantaloupe<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Cucumbers<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Eggplant<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
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<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.2in;" valign="top" width="115">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Beans<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Watermelon<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Peppers<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Okra<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Pumpkins<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Summer Squash<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Herbs<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Strawberries<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Ginger<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
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<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.2in;" valign="top" width="115">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Ginger<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Potatoes<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Tomatoes<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td style="border-top: none; border: 1pt solid windowtext; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.2in;" valign="top" width="115">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Winter Squash<o:p></o:p></p>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-color: currentcolor windowtext windowtext currentcolor; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-style: none solid solid none; border-top: none; border-width: medium 1pt 1pt medium; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt; width: 1.25in;" valign="top" width="120">
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Bunching Onions<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;">Tomatillos <o:p></o:p></p>
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</tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Growing inside a Sunglo Greenhouse you can expect greater crop yields and even larger produce at times, for example this 19″ long cucumber. With consistent warmth at night, pepper plants can produce more fruit earlier in and throughout the season. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank"><img height="400" src="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/jpeg-imag002.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Larger Fruits: 19 in. Cucumber</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank"><img height="400" src="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/Peppers2-768x1024.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Increased Pepper Production</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />In conclusion, the convergence of <a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Sunglo Greenhouses</a> and the insights provided by a planting calendar offers an exciting opportunity for year-round vegetable cultivation. With controlled environments, extended growing seasons, and protection from external challenges, greenhouse enthusiasts can now produce a bountiful harvest regardless of the weather. By leveraging the advanced technology of Sunglo Greenhouses and the knowledge of a local planting calendar, you can embark on a journey to transform your gardening experience and savor the taste of fresh, homegrown vegetables throughout the year.<br /><br />Take your growing to a new level with Sunglo Greenhouse. Best greenhouse for cold climates!</div><div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/44psltq8n26eyoT_wgfWz38z32bDYPwbSjk14Sss9tc8e8JBkR--ehy48wX32LUEpsVjFxGcJyq3uDgfxVlhVUDJrfdmsPZm04aeY-udsdyKuQrrxNE2ak3YoJgX1gTgMNrldO_51UFJca2DW6g9_2o=w495-h640" width="495" /></div></div><div><br />Please visit <a href="https://sunglogreenhouses.com/?utm_source=blog&utm_medium=paid_marketing&utm_campaign=rustedgarden1" target="_blank">Sunglo Greenhouses </a>to learn more about what our greenhouse can do to help you grow all year long. You can speak with a Sunglo Professional who has experience growing in a Sunglo Greenhouse by calling 720-443-6711 or visit our website and see what we are all about and what is on sale right now.</div><div><br /></div><div>"This is a sponsored post. I have been working with Sunglo over the 2023 season. I am interested in growing food through Maryland's winters. Unlike the basic greenhouse I bought for seed starting, Sunglo Greenhouses are about growing food all season long. I recommend learning more about Sunglo Greenhouses before making a decision on a purchase. If you want to grow an abundance of food through the winter, I recommend Sunglo."</div><div><br /></div><div>"A Garden Wants to Give."</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden) </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><center><br />
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-36792730166044517122023-09-08T09:38:00.004-04:002023-09-09T11:46:46.238-04:00The Tomato Hornworm and Parasitic Wasp Cocoons: Garden Friend or Foe?<center style="text-align: left;">Let's get right to the point... A single 'Tomato Hornworm' can devastate a tomato plant in a couple of days. Several, can wipe out a plant overnight. If you wake up to missing tomato leaves, you most likely have hornworms. They should be removed immediately and killed. They are green, large, and really look like someone made an alien lifeform from clay. They are bad for a garden.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyT7QA6xj7v6yfb3E6lfc5YV-gsX-j4B1fPClLlb3ooX4EHBC07aflh-_DlZOdaEl7ARtNZhe20574TuTIFOfs5oAe7gXKzA_Zol8wzN21EJMKJkqih49ZSf8MbnFxrn1Jc-z4TUqRIPfbEBML_XMChkWGM5IT4ApR1JXk77wGSdRRvi5cz1X7uvUU_I/s5184/Hornworm%20with%20Parasitic%20Wasp%20Cocoons.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGyT7QA6xj7v6yfb3E6lfc5YV-gsX-j4B1fPClLlb3ooX4EHBC07aflh-_DlZOdaEl7ARtNZhe20574TuTIFOfs5oAe7gXKzA_Zol8wzN21EJMKJkqih49ZSf8MbnFxrn1Jc-z4TUqRIPfbEBML_XMChkWGM5IT4ApR1JXk77wGSdRRvi5cz1X7uvUU_I/w640-h360/Hornworm%20with%20Parasitic%20Wasp%20Cocoons.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parasitic Wasp Cocoons on a Tomato Hornworm </td></tr></tbody></table><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">If you see white cocoons covering the top of a hornworm, that is good. Freaky looking and even more alien looking, but good. A predator wasp, one that eats insects, has laid eggs just under the skin of the hornworm. The larva, once hatched, slowly digest the host and come out and form all those white cocoons as seen in the picture. You want the cocoons to mature and release wasps that will become part of your garden. Not all wasps sting or bother gardeners.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Jelyxcay64g?si=7oHwFHDbg5EmpWqS" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><center style="text-align: left;">A great way to find the tomato hornworm is at night, using a UV light, sometimes called a black light. They are easily found online as an inexpensive flashlight. Shine the light on your tomato plants and the hornworms will actually 'glow' and reveal themselves. Grab and remove them. <a href="https://www.amazon.com/shop/garypilarchiktherustedgarden" target="_blank">Visit my Amazon Shop</a> for garden related items.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=UV+Flash+light&crid=T31BQWS3NGA9&sprefix=uv+flash+light%2Caps%2C75&ref=nb_sb_noss_2" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="395" data-original-width="400" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD1SW1kMvH8e3kwGOL-S72lpoYyZqHall1UkVV11UKG7sBzX-y46L1tIbqYMykQLchQu-24IA-2plt_nwpr4ziIBQ5ZmLWUFY9BAaii6wWiWg6gQqRLh8UuubXXyK76_JjJAHRdE0WJym5RJcby2I52JocdHpX9B6wJFiM9CfNKkK_G--yWdrxWkOpI7o/w400-h395/UV%20Flashlight.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/s?k=UV+Flash+light&crid=T31BQWS3NGA9&sprefix=uv+flash+light%2Caps%2C75&ref=nb_sb_noss_2" target="_blank">Search UV Flashlights on My Amazon Shop</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">"A Garden Wants to Give"</center><center style="text-align: left;">Cheers!</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Gary (The Rusted Garden)</center><center>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-69956821441296451502023-09-05T11:35:00.008-04:002023-09-05T12:45:40.586-04:00How to Grow Corn Successfully in Small Garden Spaces: All the Details!<center style="text-align: left;">Corn is one of my favorite crops to grow. I even enjoy eating it raw, right off the plants before the raccoons get it. A post for another day. The two biggest mistakes people make are; planting their corn in straight rows (side by side) instead of a square or rectangle and not watering nearly enough. Fertilizing is important but not the reason gardeners have trouble successfully growing corn.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQDqV3dUL5YSioshBGSEK687Uu3MAv7o63Qrzw4NxU4P3PHypeUWEosVWPHOCvFjXwi5Y623ylz1g2ZiHvqmuVIFs6Z0Ezj1HuXFEenO9HoJQ5wdv8icL7k43BI0muTkSNxELymuWKeYJrYUuoTw6dtpyCsRsjLiGxPbx6SoabuYDgL5bJxxZbnrPeBPQ/s5184/Mature%20Cornstalks.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQDqV3dUL5YSioshBGSEK687Uu3MAv7o63Qrzw4NxU4P3PHypeUWEosVWPHOCvFjXwi5Y623ylz1g2ZiHvqmuVIFs6Z0Ezj1HuXFEenO9HoJQ5wdv8icL7k43BI0muTkSNxELymuWKeYJrYUuoTw6dtpyCsRsjLiGxPbx6SoabuYDgL5bJxxZbnrPeBPQ/w400-h225/Mature%20Cornstalks.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corn Planted in a Square for Small Garden Spaces</td></tr></tbody></table><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Let's start with understanding how corn pollinates the female silks. The tassels on top of the cornstalks are the male flowers and source of pollen. The silks, that protrude out of the stem and leaf joints, along the cornstalk, are the female fruit, your future ears of corn. Each silk is attached to only 1 potential kernel of corn. Every silk must be pollinated for the ear to be fully loaded with corn kernels. Pollination failure means missing kernels of corn.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Pyytpj6xejD5TstcpAwdAq_08W35AUYw1a2GhSqe5qMqu5a5f_pInNIEd_9QGl1dNVG-ftJM_0cpQrMLF1unC6HvxacHRNW7VXlef_iawWIuptVfaS3fV8UDjz77v2akijj8lo5SlX9I7NyjvMscF6U4icnC9lsUuggnLUjRFoGSbe9bOwaUbpVabxU/s5184/Corn%20Tassles.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Pyytpj6xejD5TstcpAwdAq_08W35AUYw1a2GhSqe5qMqu5a5f_pInNIEd_9QGl1dNVG-ftJM_0cpQrMLF1unC6HvxacHRNW7VXlef_iawWIuptVfaS3fV8UDjz77v2akijj8lo5SlX9I7NyjvMscF6U4icnC9lsUuggnLUjRFoGSbe9bOwaUbpVabxU/w400-h225/Corn%20Tassles.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corn Tassels Produce Pollen (Male)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4KJyIor-uCxRVda9rqyVSNp6NQPsVeS-UwUJC_Hd4EOPkNpFhOBvg42xCKjk9W-x6IqWGaTZhHKaVABbMVwP1vl2Q3uDM979UJvIvpnruD1OPSkcSeiiNtpKtM-MgiThfarZc7cHWWd1cf2EI_5rk5ILEsb54jyc-eOvp81xybENcj-kX_2mBITQtRY/s5184/Corn%20Silks.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM4KJyIor-uCxRVda9rqyVSNp6NQPsVeS-UwUJC_Hd4EOPkNpFhOBvg42xCKjk9W-x6IqWGaTZhHKaVABbMVwP1vl2Q3uDM979UJvIvpnruD1OPSkcSeiiNtpKtM-MgiThfarZc7cHWWd1cf2EI_5rk5ILEsb54jyc-eOvp81xybENcj-kX_2mBITQtRY/w400-h225/Corn%20Silks.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corn Silks Create Corn Kernels (Female)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><center style="text-align: left;">The wind is what disperses the pollen across the corn plants and onto the corn silks. If you plant your corn in single, double, or even triple rows, you will end up with poorly formed ears of corn. As the wind blows through the tassels of row planted corn, all the pollen will blow away to settle elsewhere in the garden. Here is my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN" target="_blank">YouTube Channel</a> video that supports this blog post. Plant your corn in blocks, like a square or a rectangle. It is the pollen from several cornstalks over that typically pollinates the silks of other cornstalks. Row planting corn defeats this mechanism of pollination.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iASwwEuxWsI?si=dTm7s11UKvf1bnTf" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">I recommend the minimum block of corn have at least 10 plants growing along each of the 4 sides. The spacing for each seed should be 6 to 8 inches. Anything greater than that, is a waste of garden space. Plant each seed 1 inch deep. By creating a block of cornstalks, such as planting in a 4 foot by 4 foot space, you create a dense block of tassels and pollen. The wind will now distribute pollen across the cornstalks and not to irrelevant space in your garden.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Corn plants loves water and we tend to underwater them greatly. When temperatures are in the 90's, I recommend watering corn, that is knee high and larger, every other day with a good 1-2 inches of water across the entire block planting. </center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5knrKbUSwEOlHKAxu2vx838IPktj46HSjWwHikPhmDI7YZ9ZhjWa4dhO-9srCVLwhXCkjmuqOosG-k6JQAQXzyLN1pjrdaMRyE4jt4XqIKRk7hTICtZiKjD8Nate8CeM572yTWBKNspsnzxeaCCCvVCueor9c46wCLZD8689VDi0X_N1nXBtCnTcwgVk/s5184/Mature%20Cornstalks%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5184" data-original-width="2912" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5knrKbUSwEOlHKAxu2vx838IPktj46HSjWwHikPhmDI7YZ9ZhjWa4dhO-9srCVLwhXCkjmuqOosG-k6JQAQXzyLN1pjrdaMRyE4jt4XqIKRk7hTICtZiKjD8Nate8CeM572yTWBKNspsnzxeaCCCvVCueor9c46wCLZD8689VDi0X_N1nXBtCnTcwgVk/w360-h640/Mature%20Cornstalks%202.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Block Planted Corn</td></tr></tbody></table><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">I typically fertilizer my corn with a water-soluble fertilizer at seeding, around waste high, and maybe again with the tassels are forming. Corn is a heavy feeder. The garden beds can be prepped with compost and organic granular fertilizer. However you amend the beds, as it will vary based on what is available to each gardener, mix the amendments well (4-6 inches deep) into the planting area. I also recommend planting corn that matures in around 65 days. Shorter to harvest corn varieties will allow you to plant corn twice in most gardens.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">"A Garden Wants to Give"</center><center style="text-align: left;">Cheers!</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Gary</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-69099066514068211982023-09-01T17:23:00.008-04:002023-09-02T09:45:22.979-04:009 Fast Growing Crops to Direct Seed in September and How to Space the Seeds for Full Size Crops!<div>Cool crops prefer, generally speaking, 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit/ 10-15.5 degrees Celsius nights. They enjoy cooler days as well. As fall approaches, the cooler nights are a signal the hot summer temperatures are beginning to break. The warms soil of summer is perfect for germination and getting some accelerated growth for the cool weather fall loving crops. You want to start seeing some of the above type night temperatures, a couple of weeks after direct seeding. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHfPRHXZ_k0wE2eem3deej0Q835NuzD0_Sofd6aUz6SN7qgC9vO1FNCGAbnzG1j4is_X6lD1fttUtc2sbLKh8BKuhEqIhTR-dwGweLmlKA4cV_0csvIzRxVMCbCsFsY2HIpjpR6KmR0QWHpew3RsUemEi7DijygLPSNhehZ5Nr89tDzbmgA-9WoENaGJE/s5184/Peas%20with%20Trellis%20mid%20growth.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHfPRHXZ_k0wE2eem3deej0Q835NuzD0_Sofd6aUz6SN7qgC9vO1FNCGAbnzG1j4is_X6lD1fttUtc2sbLKh8BKuhEqIhTR-dwGweLmlKA4cV_0csvIzRxVMCbCsFsY2HIpjpR6KmR0QWHpew3RsUemEi7DijygLPSNhehZ5Nr89tDzbmgA-9WoENaGJE/w640-h360/Peas%20with%20Trellis%20mid%20growth.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summer Planted Peas for a Fall Garden</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Direct seeding is the cheapest way to grow vegetables and summer into fall is perfect for direct seeding these 9 crops. You may have to test the timing of sowing them in your garden, so take notes and use them for next year as you perfect the timing. If you sow too soon the heat can be an issue. If you so them too late, they may not fully mature before a hard ground freeze. These crops can take frosts, so freezing leaves are okay. </div><div><br /></div><div>The goal for my spacing numbers is fully mature crops. You can always plant crops closer if you are going to be harvesting them at a smaller size. However, I wanted to give the minimum spacing from experience to get full size plants. You can always add more space if you are concerned about distance.</div><div><br /></div><div>Rows between crops can be 6-12 inches or 15-30 cm. I recommend the higher end if you are just getting started with growing. The spacing numbers between seeds is based on my last 20 years of growing. These crops mature quickly and the days to maturity range starts at germination.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Seed Spacing & Days to Maturity</b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Peas </b>2 inches or 5 cm apart - Matures in 60-75 days</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Turnip</b>s 4 inches or 10 cm apart - Matures in 50-60 days</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Mustard</b> <b>Greens </b>6 inches or 15 cm apart - Matures in 35-45 days</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Arugula</b> 4 inches or 10 cm apart - Matures in 25-25 days</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Lettuce (Romaine)</b> 6 inches or 15 cm apart - Matures in 45-55 days</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Spinach</b> 4 inches or 10 cm apart - Matures in 55-60 days</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Radishe</b>s 3 inches or 7.5 cm apart - Matures in 25-40 days<br /></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Carrots</b> 2 inches or 5 cm apart - Mature sin 60-80 days</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Pak Choi</b> 8 inches or 20 cm apart - Matures in 30-40 days</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The benefit of growing from summer into fall is faster germination. Radishes will germinate in under 5 days. Arugula can germinate in 3 days. They plant will grow more quickly too and that helps the plants establish before the cool weather and occasional frost set in. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8nklBy_Ww5to9nROnq1Oo2yM_DYaFS34G-rLYWJ4lMijwCqhpWY-SMzZhA7UPBAK0WotB8kjVjTSQUsKbu-JxSZHTUY6nj28WxT3bXU3sVEoGv9IGrhBF4SYF37ZqXeaZbt2Dr6FO6DXlOh5fE6nBJBaPz4knAFmr9ATITqIO1oYAZYXMe-i7kQcbU6Q/s5184/Radishes%20and%20Romaine%20early%20growth.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8nklBy_Ww5to9nROnq1Oo2yM_DYaFS34G-rLYWJ4lMijwCqhpWY-SMzZhA7UPBAK0WotB8kjVjTSQUsKbu-JxSZHTUY6nj28WxT3bXU3sVEoGv9IGrhBF4SYF37ZqXeaZbt2Dr6FO6DXlOh5fE6nBJBaPz4knAFmr9ATITqIO1oYAZYXMe-i7kQcbU6Q/w640-h360/Radishes%20and%20Romaine%20early%20growth.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Damaged Radish Leaves and Future Romaine Transplants</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>The problem with sowing fall crops now is the insect and pest pressure is really high as the insects have been thriving and multiplying. I highly recommend putting down a snail and slug bait when you sow and about every 2 weeks for a couple of rotations. Snails and slugs can devastate seedling in a day. Any bait that uses iron phosphate or sulfur is effective. Here is a link to <a href="https://www.amazon.com/shop/garypilarchiktherustedgarden" target="_blank">My Amazon Shop</a>, if you want to view the baits there. <a href="https://www.amazon.com/shop/garypilarchiktherustedgarden" target="_blank">Snail and Slug Baits</a> I recommend. And below is my video, covering these 9 plants, you can find over 1600 gardening videos on my YouTube channel: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN" target="_blank">The Rusted Garden</a>.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nrR3m-dvC7U?si=fXikQR18nKFAJxa9" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">"A Garden Want to Grow"</div><div style="text-align: left;">Cheers!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br /></div><center>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-87125749358397241272023-08-29T11:14:00.014-04:002023-09-01T09:29:32.126-04:00 A 2 in 1 Garden Crop Cover ( Rabbit, Deer, Squirrel, and Bird Protection) & Garden Trellis: A Versatile, Inexpensive, and Easy DIY Project!<br /><div>One rule I try to follow when making anything for the garden is... can it serve more than one purpose. I also keep in mind, the ease of construction, the ease of storage, the ease of use, and the ease on my out of pocket costs. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfQXBMDiewmp4tg-ikUYuSFFn1l5g3IDJj9P9Gpleivk_zqu3ONT7v3ahSIPXNRUqxU8ZZVKpfP1wa9sq3qxKb1xDrUHbLrp7Xd3lf3P-FxjmarLeOeMoAG84VJhOrkqSjs_sjkhO6U8DSVGyGGNk104r_BDhhhFA7zFOzGDNaToQpBymUchOzMYTWMv0/s5184/Frame%20Crop%20Cover%20Upright%20Trellis.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfQXBMDiewmp4tg-ikUYuSFFn1l5g3IDJj9P9Gpleivk_zqu3ONT7v3ahSIPXNRUqxU8ZZVKpfP1wa9sq3qxKb1xDrUHbLrp7Xd3lf3P-FxjmarLeOeMoAG84VJhOrkqSjs_sjkhO6U8DSVGyGGNk104r_BDhhhFA7zFOzGDNaToQpBymUchOzMYTWMv0/w640-h360/Frame%20Crop%20Cover%20Upright%20Trellis.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Basic Frame for Crop Protection</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><br />This easily constructed basic frame checks all the boxes. It can be cut and measured to fit any size raised bed or garden space. A simple set of legs or supports will allow it to sit over the ground or over a collection of containers. You can use this build to protect your crops from rabbits, deer, squirrels, and birds. When it isn't protecting your plants, you can use as a light weight trellis.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOnbIB769tDRPcLZ97oHIAO_ALOji1JY_XHl09Xaa-cszSKlixPqaK2Eh9-bA67-Ml-ZJ4ehDZJT1t2AxpmDxmlyT0HnTEJHSeritwMiFsGcmNe3qbXw6IG1wqrLKs_BY3rL81yWP1hMydJNUo_7kof_490H7Gubm6Ey3lUUGs4bO078p9l7LaAwMebB0/s5184/Frame%20Build%20as%20Flat%20Crop%20Protection.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOnbIB769tDRPcLZ97oHIAO_ALOji1JY_XHl09Xaa-cszSKlixPqaK2Eh9-bA67-Ml-ZJ4ehDZJT1t2AxpmDxmlyT0HnTEJHSeritwMiFsGcmNe3qbXw6IG1wqrLKs_BY3rL81yWP1hMydJNUo_7kof_490H7Gubm6Ey3lUUGs4bO078p9l7LaAwMebB0/w400-h225/Frame%20Build%20as%20Flat%20Crop%20Protection.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easy to Build Frame for Crop Protection</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQRsWZnOfOVopQ5Xv2D2-2rHQO00Q7XHbDBQF8QlauAENqdtuw_eOOCU4jfZm72RRGQyYPwFFKFgW7727BUqxozuUG8_E-k-Fnk7riHN7NFsC5O9nkBs4Bc8h0jXmWw_Bx_-absY3UdI7Hk6MLhm1I7XqwufpTi5W7jQUfbMNSCaiDNz4Vpdg2pKdxxog/s5184/Frame%20Crop%20Cover%20Side%20Up.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQRsWZnOfOVopQ5Xv2D2-2rHQO00Q7XHbDBQF8QlauAENqdtuw_eOOCU4jfZm72RRGQyYPwFFKFgW7727BUqxozuUG8_E-k-Fnk7riHN7NFsC5O9nkBs4Bc8h0jXmWw_Bx_-absY3UdI7Hk6MLhm1I7XqwufpTi5W7jQUfbMNSCaiDNz4Vpdg2pKdxxog/w400-h225/Frame%20Crop%20Cover%20Side%20Up.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use Flat or Slightly Propped as Plants Grow</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The key to this design is using a piece of wood to secure all 4 corners of the frame. Cut any scrap of wood to create a rectangular block. It should be wide enough to hold 2 or 3 screws as seen in the picture. Depending on the size and width of the wood you are using for the frame pieces, you want to use 2 or 3 inch screws. It is important to have at least 1 inch of screw length in the rectangular block. Once the frame is secured in the corners, with the blocks, it is solid. The chicken wire or fencing is secured using a standard staple gun. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaMOKXzfPxW6CT_Z4_tdB2rfO1_JxDNenpWCCezpstjCU2dM0uVaeyWavCeIIDPHEwDpWcVz1XeZISAljQoDFkkoQIAIc1Lqj_OGnJXHwd-wRlQ6InBxGDitmfLyrRrSyqTquZT2oBF_7m-OUzKDb1hqQNXJkYPqItEXmn6mYsA4RP3AOksBYuuecA_4/s5184/Frame%20Build%20Screws%20and%20Block%20of%20Wood.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTaMOKXzfPxW6CT_Z4_tdB2rfO1_JxDNenpWCCezpstjCU2dM0uVaeyWavCeIIDPHEwDpWcVz1XeZISAljQoDFkkoQIAIc1Lqj_OGnJXHwd-wRlQ6InBxGDitmfLyrRrSyqTquZT2oBF_7m-OUzKDb1hqQNXJkYPqItEXmn6mYsA4RP3AOksBYuuecA_4/w640-h360/Frame%20Build%20Screws%20and%20Block%20of%20Wood.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>The rectangular blocks, not only secure the frame corners, they are used to raise the height of the frame as plants grow. I like to use bricks. The wide base of the rectangular block is perfect for securely sitting the cover on any supports you put under it. Check out my video from my<a href="https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN" target="_blank"> YT Channel The Rusted Garden.</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xPYoyTilPoo?si=_3oAeN_JpOU9RVN2" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Another use for the basic frame, is a long trellis down the length of a bed. The frame can be tied to posts when using it as a trellis. If you build two frames, you can lean them on each other and build an A frame trellis. In that case, I would just tie the edges that meet, that build the top of the triangle, with rope in several places. Chicken wire can easily support peas, beans, cucumber and even light melons.</div><div><br /><br />
<center><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFc6IuVTTXsXspFshOLUCwKLrS15Nw4ppMjT8h0dJGlj2UfV4OR-qUCwj1flY8onZOIo-NIqB7riqXUFDtWCsBDjT0tVL2kT25yyaVWmjE6WSVF_aBf4i15JifzflXQgY35X7FdTrT1wOXZ1gXzkRPJUnMiUNMBGtBVQBDA_23OyQy3W4bKGBtNaCFI_I/s5184/Frame%20Build%20Propped%20with%20Brick.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFc6IuVTTXsXspFshOLUCwKLrS15Nw4ppMjT8h0dJGlj2UfV4OR-qUCwj1flY8onZOIo-NIqB7riqXUFDtWCsBDjT0tVL2kT25yyaVWmjE6WSVF_aBf4i15JifzflXQgY35X7FdTrT1wOXZ1gXzkRPJUnMiUNMBGtBVQBDA_23OyQy3W4bKGBtNaCFI_I/w400-h225/Frame%20Build%20Propped%20with%20Brick.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bricks Are Perfect for Raising the Cover</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH7XFT4JSDPHsQdtDbeDwMtXndslwrSiTv4oa51oLE2wf0oVyI40bKIf92OrKciXc5tXxLkmLUcnGAX2IOda95ULA4kOZ3ABhjarv5LDI3rRVuw2RBTAl91HuiO8Vx4vPCZ_3ZoHQG2N9kyt4J6d5NmrgWs5alsQAC3GKSu9DDrO0kWh4X40-QP4YzsE/s5184/Frame%20Build%20as%20Long%20Trellis.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTH7XFT4JSDPHsQdtDbeDwMtXndslwrSiTv4oa51oLE2wf0oVyI40bKIf92OrKciXc5tXxLkmLUcnGAX2IOda95ULA4kOZ3ABhjarv5LDI3rRVuw2RBTAl91HuiO8Vx4vPCZ_3ZoHQG2N9kyt4J6d5NmrgWs5alsQAC3GKSu9DDrO0kWh4X40-QP4YzsE/w400-h225/Frame%20Build%20as%20Long%20Trellis.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Once Way to Use it as a Trellis</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">This easy to build and inexpensive frame can be built in any shape that meets the needs of your garden. I like using the materials seen here as the frame is lightweight but very effective. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">"Good Luck in Your Gardens"</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Cheers!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-64759522260816544822023-08-27T12:44:00.014-04:002023-09-01T09:26:20.926-04:00Fall Strawberry Care & Plant Propagation: A Quick Water-Soluble Fertilizer Feed and Propagation Soil Bags <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Strawberries are one of my favorite crops to grow in the garden. I grow them in the ground, in containers, and in vertical towers. If you have rabbits or limited space, I highly recommend growing them in GreenStalk vertical planters. You can get a discount using my link and code<span face="Roboto, Noto, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #0d0d0d; font-size: 15px; white-space-collapse: preserve;"> <a href="http://store.greenstalkgarden.com/?afmc=therustedgarden" target="_blank">THERUSTEDGARDEN on GreenStalk</a> planters.</span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://store.greenstalkgarden.com/?afmc=therustedgarden" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtSUrKQZw1NRrxTetFv-JC9T5mu5JRMveRzVK8KwPDTKjsBN-jwTtSGiw9csREcTg9v40o7glmQtjZmEvKGdrtAudM3rYBU0hUGdarldabrETH1kbOlgUUal6W5edzxGvpyqE_XRkDInKEmqpEAhprY5cVCzZ6J8QguVNgqIl7BN8sEOwCbqMVBna8vxY/w640-h360/Strawberry%20Towers.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://store.greenstalkgarden.com/?afmc=therustedgarden" target="_blank">Growing Strawberries Vertically (Use Code THERUSTEDGARDEN)</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>As the season begins to end, you have the opportunity to propagate all the runners that come from the established plants. This is a great way to save money, as a single plant can easily cost $3 or more. A patch of strawberry plants can produce well over 100 runners that produce baby plants. </div><div><br /></div><div>A strawberry plant can produce several long runners and each runner can have 3 or more new strawberry plants on them. The mother plants support the needs and growth of the young plants, through the runners, and as the plants mature, they eventually contact the ground and roots form. This is how new strawberry plants are established and move across the ground.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQ2jNHPsjasvfubPqmEy98FU-ttyMMEsvF33BJTtwFjiuzND2BoGuIPby8QM3ZNe3ZHUgJn9Quc0SwktqIDx9I-MXHETAh6N724xAbbJ0g1_Vf3VjBX1olmV25lc92vcq-4ezPY0zXmlL-Qj1xeOtlIehEHjmqwiHWfrXMkJBorJHQXmCqmtkOa49hWo/s5184/Strawberry%20Container%20Runners.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKQ2jNHPsjasvfubPqmEy98FU-ttyMMEsvF33BJTtwFjiuzND2BoGuIPby8QM3ZNe3ZHUgJn9Quc0SwktqIDx9I-MXHETAh6N724xAbbJ0g1_Vf3VjBX1olmV25lc92vcq-4ezPY0zXmlL-Qj1xeOtlIehEHjmqwiHWfrXMkJBorJHQXmCqmtkOa49hWo/w400-h225/Strawberry%20Container%20Runners.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strawberry Runners Looking for Soil</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Strawberry plants are still active late summer and early fall before a heavy frost eventually arrives and starts their dormancy period. A quick drink of any water-soluble fertilizer is perfect to help them support runner growth and leaf growth for even another round of late season strawberries, if you are growing everbearing varieties. The feeding now, will also help them come next spring when they wake from dormancy and grow leaves to get started for the new season. They will appreciate the available nitrogen very early in the spring.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhECA80qlWkHlnrR98g-rsz9lNeeFCPm3QrHa0dPH4jbdvbuW9wPuSRH5EgIFmTit73vGwVHuYh2lneoywGjQ7LAo_YUds-fWtfX40Of8OvEV6sJroulU9OxRrvNU3eWmFjIOIRfFuLCLaU95MJziYebYH4IQdAo5Mz94bZzEYsCTzvbiGVulVtRPznDhE/s5184/Strawberry%20Water%20Soluble%20Feed.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhECA80qlWkHlnrR98g-rsz9lNeeFCPm3QrHa0dPH4jbdvbuW9wPuSRH5EgIFmTit73vGwVHuYh2lneoywGjQ7LAo_YUds-fWtfX40Of8OvEV6sJroulU9OxRrvNU3eWmFjIOIRfFuLCLaU95MJziYebYH4IQdAo5Mz94bZzEYsCTzvbiGVulVtRPznDhE/w400-h225/Strawberry%20Water%20Soluble%20Feed.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water-Soluble Fertilizer to Each Plant</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>Runners, in towers, can be a problem as they just hang there and search for soil to contact. One way to help them is to tuck them into pockets where there is space, but you still end up with so many dangling baby plants. A basic plastic bag that zips closed is perfect. It easily form fits into the tower pockets.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfYOrvHs8q9CaZx4D24QhS1jLHfB5__f6hPSDr29DYP54YU0kJF_vZUHguvvSjHu0Nx6d-BgfIW-wG5bwK4H41rvGc4H_oMH7ID9pQSXTodSyZkGRwe3xHAQwbLH3ppTS-hKhxMWCZoV2EoEqMFgtp33JhD9C9HgIWo0dfsFNWuqb8CA1mXKvm1cTfdN0/s5184/Strawberry%20Bag%20Prop%20in%20Pocket.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfYOrvHs8q9CaZx4D24QhS1jLHfB5__f6hPSDr29DYP54YU0kJF_vZUHguvvSjHu0Nx6d-BgfIW-wG5bwK4H41rvGc4H_oMH7ID9pQSXTodSyZkGRwe3xHAQwbLH3ppTS-hKhxMWCZoV2EoEqMFgtp33JhD9C9HgIWo0dfsFNWuqb8CA1mXKvm1cTfdN0/w640-h360/Strawberry%20Bag%20Prop%20in%20Pocket.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soil Bags for Strawberry Runner Propagation</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Just fill the bag with any quality soil that will hold moisture. A starting mix, your compost, some earth with extra peat moss or a combination of all them. Any moist soil will work. Make sure you cut a small hole on the bottom for drainage. Once the bag is in place, cut small slits in the bag (up to 4) and press in the baby plants. The sealed bag helps keep moisture in the soil. The plants will quickly root and establish a good root system in about 4-5 weeks. Once the roots are well established, remove them from the bag and transplant them where you wish. The plants will continue to develop roots and when the frosts arrive, they will go dormant for the season.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4E4tZdW0uVVU0GO77B9dXRLEKfudqAtR-3W1ybtRb-3xqE2LvIeWwibFbTgb6lQHE1xWLq_XE77rqv0BPKprQ7WqW_L00LN1BmNAkbnkiPPpGRO5fcmVV7e1y3AJqIv_ooEK13c3r8ujvOPp3Q0Acc9enTMM11vqYrK4FTdrYTBbz3RQxeuUyfDD_tO0/s5184/Strawberry%20Bag%20Prop%20in%20Hand.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4E4tZdW0uVVU0GO77B9dXRLEKfudqAtR-3W1ybtRb-3xqE2LvIeWwibFbTgb6lQHE1xWLq_XE77rqv0BPKprQ7WqW_L00LN1BmNAkbnkiPPpGRO5fcmVV7e1y3AJqIv_ooEK13c3r8ujvOPp3Q0Acc9enTMM11vqYrK4FTdrYTBbz3RQxeuUyfDD_tO0/w400-h225/Strawberry%20Bag%20Prop%20in%20Hand.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A Basic Strawberry Propagation Soil Bag</div><br /><div><br /></div>Late summer or early fall is a great time for the quick boost of fertilizer. End of the season care, once dormancy sets in may include mulching the strawberry plants to protect them from heavy winter ground freezes. Here in Maryland I do not mulch any of my strawberry beds or containers or move my GreenStalk towers. I leave them out 24/7. I have had some of them for 7 years. Please follow my blog and I will help teach you how to grow food.<div><br /><div><br /></div>
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Visit The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop <br />for your Seeds, Starting Supplies,
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-76539761816894972882023-08-23T08:33:00.004-04:002023-08-23T08:45:16.433-04:00Ep-2 Crops You Can Plant in August & September for a Fall Garden: The Rusted Garden Homestead Podcast: All About Growing, Cooking, & Sharing Food<div id="buzzsprout-player-13456379"></div><script charset="utf-8" src="https://www.buzzsprout.com/1846799/13456379-ep-2-crops-you-can-plant-in-august-september-for-a-fall-garden-the-rusted-garden-homestead-all-about-growing-cooking-sharing-food.js?container_id=buzzsprout-player-13456379&player=small" type="text/javascript"></script>
<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><p style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px;">The Rusted Garden Homestead podcast is all about sharing my passion for growing, cooking, and sharing food with family and friends. In this episode, I talk with my friend Erica Jones, a master gardener and chef. We discuss crops you can plant now in August and September for a fall garden. We cover both warm and cool crops and how they differ.<br style="--tw-border-spacing-x: 0; --tw-border-spacing-y: 0; --tw-ring-color: #3b82f680; --tw-ring-offset-color: #fff; --tw-ring-offset-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-ring-offset-width: 0px; --tw-ring-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-rotate: 0; --tw-scale-x: 1; --tw-scale-y: 1; --tw-scroll-snap-strictness: proximity; --tw-shadow-colored: 0 0 #0000; --tw-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-skew-x: 0; --tw-skew-y: 0; --tw-translate-x: 0; --tw-translate-y: 0; border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box;" /><br style="--tw-border-spacing-x: 0; --tw-border-spacing-y: 0; --tw-ring-color: #3b82f680; --tw-ring-offset-color: #fff; --tw-ring-offset-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-ring-offset-width: 0px; --tw-ring-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-rotate: 0; --tw-scale-x: 1; --tw-scale-y: 1; --tw-scroll-snap-strictness: proximity; --tw-shadow-colored: 0 0 #0000; --tw-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-skew-x: 0; --tw-skew-y: 0; --tw-translate-x: 0; --tw-translate-y: 0; border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box;" />New episodes will be launched on the 2nd and 4th Wednesday of each month. </p><p style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; margin: 0px 0px 25px; padding: 0px;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIp73FwGXqU8RekP0UPgBF5OKfzOY5huKmBXztNLIfr6KyfcPMTYYTKT2-nR5P-ENgPHaRE_yD8pet2BZyNbGwvcK9QtsRIsRVj_ffw1bJcjq3lbeIZ4UaEZNnADGBl3LMNtlhNl1ABErjN8rdko3N-h-iLnS04IB71fw78-_zRKarQVL4B4LvFDmX7pw/s1074/SnapShot(139).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1074" data-original-width="793" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIp73FwGXqU8RekP0UPgBF5OKfzOY5huKmBXztNLIfr6KyfcPMTYYTKT2-nR5P-ENgPHaRE_yD8pet2BZyNbGwvcK9QtsRIsRVj_ffw1bJcjq3lbeIZ4UaEZNnADGBl3LMNtlhNl1ABErjN8rdko3N-h-iLnS04IB71fw78-_zRKarQVL4B4LvFDmX7pw/s320/SnapShot(139).jpg" width="236" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Host & Creator<br style="--tw-border-spacing-x: 0; --tw-border-spacing-y: 0; --tw-ring-color: #3b82f680; --tw-ring-offset-color: #fff; --tw-ring-offset-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-ring-offset-width: 0px; --tw-ring-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-rotate: 0; --tw-scale-x: 1; --tw-scale-y: 1; --tw-scroll-snap-strictness: proximity; --tw-shadow-colored: 0 0 #0000; --tw-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-skew-x: 0; --tw-skew-y: 0; --tw-translate-x: 0; --tw-translate-y: 0; border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box;" />More information about Gary Pilarchik...<br style="--tw-border-spacing-x: 0; --tw-border-spacing-y: 0; --tw-ring-color: #3b82f680; --tw-ring-offset-color: #fff; --tw-ring-offset-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-ring-offset-width: 0px; --tw-ring-shadow: 0 0 #0000; --tw-rotate: 0; --tw-scale-x: 1; --tw-scale-y: 1; --tw-scroll-snap-strictness: proximity; --tw-shadow-colored: 0 0 #0000; 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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-64031323707668923572023-08-22T12:18:00.002-04:002023-08-22T19:35:51.143-04:004 Ways to Mange Squash Bug Damage on Your Squash, Zucchini, and Other Garden Plants: My Approach!<div>Squash bugs really can't be defeated one hundred percent in a garden, but the damage they cause can be greatly managed down. You can move them from the category of devastating your squash and zucchini to being nuisances on your plants. They are also very resistant to insect dusts and sprays.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrq4PeH4Yr1Xr6CdmrB4UGcOAp93lEiNPiWbQBbqtvp97xsOnf-CoBNUU87Rh50lQot-wa42_8G-D85aUadw5-w4CRf9J1Z-5eCnT-loHDhY5l4BYFtyIebTP1IEG-XM_Vy3euuaRbL6ig5UG9o0pkSkVU5D4xSE6WqitzorFJQeL0mSC5UVvufM8Evnk/s5184/Squash%20Bug%20Adult%20Brown%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrq4PeH4Yr1Xr6CdmrB4UGcOAp93lEiNPiWbQBbqtvp97xsOnf-CoBNUU87Rh50lQot-wa42_8G-D85aUadw5-w4CRf9J1Z-5eCnT-loHDhY5l4BYFtyIebTP1IEG-XM_Vy3euuaRbL6ig5UG9o0pkSkVU5D4xSE6WqitzorFJQeL0mSC5UVvufM8Evnk/w400-h225/Squash%20Bug%20Adult%20Brown%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Squash Bug </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>The first step is to accept they are present and that the goal is to reduce their population which will reduce garden damage. The second step is to follow my routine or the parts you find appropriate for your garden. The adults show up and their goal is to lay eggs, 100's of eggs, on the undersides of leaves. You may also find them on the stems. Inspect your squash and zucchini leaves, at least three times a week, and look for the eggs. A sticky piece of tape pressed on the egg cluster will remove them from the leaf. Press the tape on the eggs and peel. Egg removal is probably the greatest way to reduce damage, because you reduce the potential population of feeding hatchlings and future adult squash bugs.<span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOZmm_j_ZP-Zc9kygNjc9zjApfy9uXj5SGUJoAM7qWWXIAanfGxwmJYEHOKaXlCcp_OZ9ZwRXCu8H0cQr9qrw7x3etYVZhTEnBCo3UQQotK5myPd4ORazYBP0XAH4WasV1LXkUXLpTrAa9OVBbl2VM7fRVoQ-F4UKqZsts6r4jG2rnPeRm7yBOLfhXgo/s5184/Squash%20Bug%20Eggs.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOZmm_j_ZP-Zc9kygNjc9zjApfy9uXj5SGUJoAM7qWWXIAanfGxwmJYEHOKaXlCcp_OZ9ZwRXCu8H0cQr9qrw7x3etYVZhTEnBCo3UQQotK5myPd4ORazYBP0XAH4WasV1LXkUXLpTrAa9OVBbl2VM7fRVoQ-F4UKqZsts6r4jG2rnPeRm7yBOLfhXgo/w400-h225/Squash%20Bug%20Eggs.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squash Bug Eggs</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>When watering your plants, soak the base of the plant with a hose. The adult squash bugs hang out under the plant and therefore watering by hand, on their home, sends them running up the plant. After watering thoroughly, wait 5 minutes, and look around the base of the plant. You will see the adults relocating to higher dry ground. Remove them by hand, yes by hand. My video from my YouTube channel The Rusted Garden fully demonstrates the watering technique and methods outlined in this article.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TwSMLRxfhts" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>You will most likely miss some eggs and they will hatch. The leaves are typically damaged where the hatchlings congregate and grow. You can find them by continuing to inspect the undersides of leaves, several times a week. Soapy water spray works really well on the soft-bodied squash bug hatchlings and juveniles. When they reach maturity, the adult squash bugs, often need a stronger soap spray. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4d94IyMad-2J9o6MjLiGY0GYNTED_l-ojIabtb3rb6K1TQ9rT7vNnKSwHb2BIfBxqRZ1mWA9vPHGbcJUv9pMDGZd_8B2CQ5FbjcxnGf_M4uyaWwyKZsZjsXzobnrXFhze84_7kiTaYWBozdgNjfDoDqsanBkZe__740jxDZB9AC4jUokfHMT-mReJNqM/s5184/Squash%20Bug%20Gray%20Juveniles%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4d94IyMad-2J9o6MjLiGY0GYNTED_l-ojIabtb3rb6K1TQ9rT7vNnKSwHb2BIfBxqRZ1mWA9vPHGbcJUv9pMDGZd_8B2CQ5FbjcxnGf_M4uyaWwyKZsZjsXzobnrXFhze84_7kiTaYWBozdgNjfDoDqsanBkZe__740jxDZB9AC4jUokfHMT-mReJNqM/w400-h225/Squash%20Bug%20Gray%20Juveniles%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recently Hatched Squash Bugs</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Another, but not overly effective, way to manage them is with any insect dust such as organic dusts with Spinosad. I have found the adults to be very resistant to insect dusts and sprays. The younger squash bugs do seem to be harmed more by the dusts. If you are going to use dust, make sure you use it on leaves, stems, and vines and not the flowers. Dusts kill good and bad insects. Contacting them with a strong soap spray seems to be the most effective form of management, in my experience. </div><div><br /></div><div>You do have to test spray, to ensure the soap concentration of your mix, doesn't damage plant leaves. Always spray a couple of leaves and wait 24-48 hours and check for damage before widely using the mix. Remember each plant variety may react differently to the spray. </div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhms4g8Z2yJQcWevb21h3HXUlTdqa4TQYJM-uRAcV8p3vMInRQ8VDBFglHs80LkDmPvzRO5z5QkbpTvtYFPB0gFuikr8toY9ZRwsEFGmV_Wk_u6bX6eB60sgzAUZhyX2FC5P49_J-JRSWyeQsJ6j8XlqPtc-Us7N69OH7wrEOHJhJrmFSuuTd4Txwhbeto/s5184/Insect%20Dust%20Squash%20Leaves.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhms4g8Z2yJQcWevb21h3HXUlTdqa4TQYJM-uRAcV8p3vMInRQ8VDBFglHs80LkDmPvzRO5z5QkbpTvtYFPB0gFuikr8toY9ZRwsEFGmV_Wk_u6bX6eB60sgzAUZhyX2FC5P49_J-JRSWyeQsJ6j8XlqPtc-Us7N69OH7wrEOHJhJrmFSuuTd4Txwhbeto/w400-h225/Insect%20Dust%20Squash%20Leaves.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insect Dust</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Soaps vary from pure clean soap often called Castile or simple soap to harsh concentrated dish detergents. These detergents are often called dish soap. It is very confusing and all soap and detergents are not equal. The best approach is to consider any 'dish soap' as a degreaser detergent. I recommend picking one type of soap and sticking with it. Make your sprays, test spray, adjust the mix, and when you get a mix that is strong and effective, but doesn't damage leaves, stick with it.</div><div><br /></div><div>Start with the recipes below in 1 gallon of water. I make the spray mix in gallon empty milk cartons and fill whatever sprayer I am using when the spray is needed. This mix has an indefinite shelf life.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Soap Mix Recipe Ratios</b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Pure Castile or Clean Basic Soaps (1-2 tablespoons) </b>in a gallon of water & test spray.</div><div>Increase by 1 tablespoon if you want to increase the potency of the spray.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Mild Detergents Dish Soaps (2-3 teaspoons) </b>in a gallon of water & test spray.</div><div>Increase by 1.5 teaspoons if you want to increase the potency of the spray.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Harsh Concentrate Detergents with Strong Degreasers (1-2 teaspoons) </b>in a gallon of water & test spray.</div><div>Increase by 1 teaspoon if you want to increase the potency of the spray.</div><div><br /></div><div>The goal is to maximize the amount of soap or detergent in the gallon of water without causing damage to the leaves. The spray should be used to contact the insects, as direct contact is how they are killed. Sprayed leaves that dry, do no harm to the squash bugs. I simply fill a spray bottle with my mix ratios and carry it with me when I inspect the plants for eggs. Keep in mind that the young squash bugs are pretty easily killed by soap sprays. The adults seems to be most harmed by more soap and a touch of degreasers. </div><div><br /></div><div>They are plenty of leaves on squash and zucchini plants. Start working on you mixes early on and over a weeks time, you can maximize the amount of soap in your mix. The best time to spray is early morning or later evening.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>"A Garden Wants to Give"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-74525475816015292822023-08-16T11:07:00.005-04:002023-08-16T11:23:44.282-04:0022 Warm & Cool Crops You can Direct Seed in August and September (Germination & Growth Pictures): Plant a Fall Garden Now!I wanted to provide visual examples of growth and germination for some warm and cool crops that can be direct seeded in August and September. Seeing how quickly the seeds grow, my influence your decision to try late summer direct seeding. It is the least expensive way to grow food. <div><br /></div><div>I am in Maryland zone 7. Many gardeners don't realize that warm crops, like beans, zucchini, squash, melons, and cucumbers, can be planted many times over the season. Multiple plantings, through the summer, is one strategy to beat pests and diseases. A topic I'll be addressing in a future blog article.</div><div><br /></div><div>Gardeners also forget there is, in many gardens, an opportunity for a second round of cool season crop planting. Which of course is late summer into early winter, depending on your location. Cool crop plants that are seeded into warm soil, germinate much more quickly than when planted in the cool soil of spring. We use this to our advantage, by planting them in later summer.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/O6DFyC2yx9Y" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div>Here is a list of 22 crops I planted from my blog post on August 6, 2023: <a href="https://therustedgarden.blogspot.com/2023/08/35-crops-you-can-direct-seed-in-august.html" target="_blank">35 Crops You Can Direct Seed in August and September</a>. The pictures below are approximately 10 days from direct seeding. You can see what germination and growth looks like. The bottom line is everything is faster with the heat of summer warming the soil. I also included whether or not they are cool or warm season crops. Keep in mind that most of the plantings seen below will be thinned down to one or two plants. You can watch the video above, from my YouTube channel, if you want to see me talk about the 22 plants listed below. The appear in the they show up in the video. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Spinach (cool)</b></div><div>5-7 days to germinate and about 10 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd7JZj6PxYkk7BWbkpuNDohPCiqL1RlbhJxDM9hSpAj27tNeKjImOrq9Ju2AAxRC15S4yvsOpxfiZ0ZB2jekRRGcIksIr_HExu0wnCOZbvwp7U5UjE8FjZqvZXTQ3PlYATjwZiWEcg7RXg6Tl_M3ejWdingC7HZnmppsH3YILeklsD221Zic_xjR7Vc38/s5184/Seedling%20Spinach.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd7JZj6PxYkk7BWbkpuNDohPCiqL1RlbhJxDM9hSpAj27tNeKjImOrq9Ju2AAxRC15S4yvsOpxfiZ0ZB2jekRRGcIksIr_HExu0wnCOZbvwp7U5UjE8FjZqvZXTQ3PlYATjwZiWEcg7RXg6Tl_M3ejWdingC7HZnmppsH3YILeklsD221Zic_xjR7Vc38/w400-h225/Seedling%20Spinach.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Spinach Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Beans (warm)</b></div><div>3-5 days to germinate and about 10 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTekdeBypVLTuWuUGm9R5c9I94NYrDhI6tSrXG-ZbEufdpvumD1DlLXxPGA36Ixxb4BdqjgQuCJlv-95UR_WeKMNYp10HftlraurBoQ01D0li7hedtWTFcLcfJW-Pgl3vjzeWM57CNHjrb7MfFKiKAsrRlfRp8g0qWCUogM-Np_R3I9qlQ0DvEskTXXdA/w400-h225/Seedling%20Bean.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Beans (Bush) Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Peas (cool)</b></div><div>4-5 days to germinate and about 10 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3WUGwHITISawGp71vywsS9QYdGq7_cUpnVBJAgxqTLWMle7_yql5l0SwLgHDJBgRfBNoxeC26UITTDgm8sE6m8JfW77zRZBJq6IDlmgtD3-yhoYR3yLGdZHajR2uLdT4f95Lf7Bi9CkjMxpkzg7Mo8gBJJGMRgmSch3c1xlyQc0HjRxfgnSsWQDggeyE/w400-h225/Seedling%20Peas.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Peas Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Cantaloupe (warm)</b></div><div>3-5 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding,</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTlTC8K7-plK1qh3nwzhS18KTm9R3-jFxNaxanmrsbgwKGRvSFJ1JOROSBysHqcUhlCfXgJUCcMb28gYURnHaQ6Snwu0vF9Y4l8thYQ8xQ6A6Prma5zlMXVV-jA8cNIAhNlojwz2gkfsczslKWetTSc7wGm7C2G8Xq3b9LroS3E0acrTquSUfXNMBkCXY/w400-h225/Seedling%20Cantaloupe.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Cantaloupe Seedlings<br /></a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><b><br /></b><div><b>Radish Daikon (cool)</b></div><div>3-4 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg41ezsE1jk5-ts92ZIJ6cIUIYGep7N4FAy_ssb7FSozNzey__Pmld4DbB7Z7HbV7pbFbQipoIYiRS_6QSiolO0C1HdLHrAvJ2D2saz2VWQMqqhdsVtyosZsqDKcXeAKwHQXuBUh94w6FcpyaUYn0I5wqXUBQGdzYbDm-XQR0ttOSFJNxsM-fD_LnoV5Kk/w400-h225/Seedling%20Radish%20Daikon.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Radish (Daikon) Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><div><b>Lettuce Romaine (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY1WbiTNcHOnokII53wUzBcLrZQK0J1Q2b-usZdTsV8cIW5W0QlbnTdl6TNifq4XLThX_6uh1wfL6UmtmqDhgtlVr2cBj4qJ1560LqT49QBDU7007mUYt0Rbrge2qdTuoGpusstt4ZNn2EE-GlGi-dvUgZV-9dVPbroiS_u7n8gK6I6LrCQO2AyZKNSTs/w400-h225/Seedling%20Lettuce%20Romaine.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Lettuce (Romaine) Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Pak Choy (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigC5PgSS6qiWctZpBj4cF3j_33DSsoqwOGj1JAWin6Rk62-_mZly3csXZPuhqWV2iJIrhYq9WvlUS9yJwPlSVWLN-kTf92QlAzEVluqoTWVsYysbLyj4YNs20VoaQZqexU7DhIYTuQkdNO0NsJ6cEbZUKyjmoaIXg-XjU6CvF1akRc6f8hpEeOhUjE3tc/w400-h225/Seedling%20Pak%20Choy.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Pak Choy Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><div><b>Zucchini (warm)</b></div><div>3-5 days to germinate and about 10 days from seeding</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-l-Ii1cOLEOA7y-LYQKjqMhDalLc67j4nZcLDjqVngPyKsEVR33S-OBtnfXQnIzUOA0-AkULcP_L-FzxI4TxzQCQMTOk8XcaoxNNd86y7u0IkmbAsz10_l1nR4G681uEOXvdNakHIdtV-WkNEICE8e4UqAlL4cpiDrXDLeqK7mKRYoaCOfKEvE-vB-mg/w400-h225/Seedling%20Zucchini.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Zucchini Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><div><b>Cabbage (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNQ_O1Ho3L2vfyUfnnJww-5TMVCgcYrxCc5E48LosJamU-EjeJckMwtvzscPfVvHO92gmV8H7-L1EthwFx4u56q6n7V_dyVpglTf4AC-j56-iK32-y4udZwy3KV8lcVySUfQecVDPUaQ7aSZE3nVGnJdcougYOvoWPmRbTXDVnuAZkf_cWSNbZyCnVEy0/w400-h225/Seedling%20Cabbage%20Red.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Cabbage (Red) Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Collards (cool & warm)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9kCiVMlIkfVTvCeuTp5TOiMtzC1Gm5ZoDYNtHlXz44QgT3kwRTKUVm4e-Yuz0XCdwcxaM6aBsIOxUhwN6defMPyAX1AIqMChotrJdGFJUs4MSbtUjD1SJ3eNw26dJYGbSaISXGIyP6Vg86hh8w6U_pqs5vfLtQYqC--yr0rYJb_RjPOlg6J0qNOzIbQ/w400-h225/Seedling%20Collards.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Collard Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Kale (cool & warm)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsNzNPcFg63-KQPtivguK1Mft66vUo81AJnjX1KEwUJeQFOFxA41C54XEy81UtDK2y8PcZg0x2Xgaan_7NeugYqggr8YotIw00oQ5KyqpqPRrPaAuuMs9yo9xoiaC4x24kjZx-GRgfO02dPyxLrovISvkSpV5dNJEC0L33bE8CJ62ICEvFn-Z97qlQB2o/w400-h225/Seedling%20Kale.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Kale Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Mustard Greens (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3u25E9YT_G-twnuwX78G0IX4Hr1dOZh1UlgFdj-UYscz42VOsgsyLRNCNtEvo2Me1htV84BMQJ3KIFkHRYJ9xLFn9KzoqPRLUD52Ds1nCmmRQtGk6bwErUUlCJ8TaKWsBEf6Ibn1RkqCdXDYBx6r5z6KPI46YFPkN5YD_m77lMLPbQbdIybZkgTPCbjA/w400-h225/Seedling%20Mustard%20Greens.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Mustard Green Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><div><b>Lettuce Bibb (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVh6k6Sj60KnfhzcxU8as-2pwb-NEcEwJt9OKbdWiyIHO9Qn5eSzlhw5HXQJ9HwMtzyX1cvii-PZiJ9bcDDJPHYZJSbCMeNahmMtj4u2Dp9F8BOjPL_Htbrqef5j33o7H1kHubrRonLwcIx17fjuq1RUALsqafwXmCjz25yFBIFhHm5dZOOw7OBTPT4E/w400-h225/Seedling%20Lettuce%20Bibb.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Lettuce (Bibb) Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><div><b>Radish Globe (cool)</b></div><div>3-5 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvpQKQ_7vIDL11bKzODauXNDGaqZiWS8IFNodU2PDU3bL6gmBnEWChP9vIONRIXDA3r87EIWxTJE-CBwiSk4s5dw-KvOx9PnvWtj5hq0qAFAMOYUvJuitJw6dNk2w_hAhcVkSwYOEEQtNQyjRietNyDwGxXeYSfxx_DGld1jq930cK5SdTzCwQ7LxcMeY/w400-h225/Seedling%20Radish%20Globe.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Radish (Globe) Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Endive (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.<br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9H-ISbdTjNKbOW4OPakN112xwGOY--09gGScZ7INK92Jbjl1m5DtBbGcCd2J9I-5oK3M-dofGIBmcqvnOXPhQhw9F428T4OOHSZgP41BYuGc93FbZL3w_TF3JTpCHp3bfTWIFdmtt6CPl6wlBlo0IB3IPioBNdAcu3CXCQ-jQHDlimmseFIeuBGPblyo/w400-h225/Seedling%20Endive.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Endive Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br />Kohlrabi (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Hj9Euyatc0NSQegv5CbxIwMXPwiSyCH4Yzd5_oqQP-n0rai5-bIBTTi2_SAN1F1tG0Eb6Da3tm-xz_Vkl1Db4IPugM5RZsaPv8ybTwWiZ54sHJB46ly6KvyKw-4LUIYp20Pzb4Y_HJMkJlCIAompF-ud7uvz58OTUyM2WsLsMM9bwFFvGCR3Jw3PLEA/w400-h225/Seedling%20Kohlrabi.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Kohlrabi Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><b>Bunching Onions (cool & warm)</b></div><div>5-7 days to germinate and about 11 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisT55W6JX-w3YkKI82AfTVK7pYKDmJ-xLWPbJ8sd57hEoK5I5sLYGjnw3Y1IKF8kQimUnAD1YsdizHA1Punx2Rp9cKy0p14EHwNRPt0ie7odqAnKJXFRVsPsrnYEo-6phg0LobNxzXMPrF1quloi9h3FhRKtv12NiIu_jTUwA2uq7g9mXnPNDZHOrfy_I/w400-h225/Seedling%20Bunching%20Onions.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Bunching Onion Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><b>Beets (cool & warm)</b></div><div>5-7 days to germinate and about 11 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIk7atvBxtQu93cEPBV2NSvR9BnaQSeJrmxectw5C9Lq186f2OnW86Sh0Y9EEfTkq6NN9rRqclGyiKTDubtkF4KkPzoDi6XhUEgPTuR78GEIwuyOsN64uTO14n1lqEU_L3Vu3Y0wJ_wszbztnjfHcQjLm4PpUy4bbNVkJtdt4PW1HXWkEHciIbGRe2a0c/w400-h225/Seedling%20Beets.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Beet Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Turnips (cool)</b></div><div>4-6 days to germinate and about 11 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipZUfMKb0efal5LuQcsJyVDnGGy1rWkw-n3wwk_Oa0Cvy0FldYdxlgfeK8Xpt6DP0NULubpQcg3MqmwpfxRFLhuVSDHn0VjhgILQap4tRU8hZgWEFbFpsaEGQMNC1qXIp52iQGN8OsCSHAn3thAOYqEKIwO32_9GhFL4cZEGT5Kppmu_-PWsut0T2V9LU/w400-h225/Seedling%20Turnips.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Turnip Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b><div><b>Carrots (cool)</b></div><div>6-8 days to germinate and about 11 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtffnasjJDSfddH3D7rSyxZQzVl_zjT0PIcuGHAd9SC2J1_e8x_XaiHRoGHiAlKEYWBkVufgpPrXRefqBnGeR18kWKF4efQJGcHGOQLsRVD04Gl5GCEYZfeL4iUu-txZjGatTnLiRNvT4doz-gnq6Ae9zmbmCpg1FFppLQEwTTfFUQReetjIOo-NAmACs/w400-h225/Seedling%20Carrots.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Carrot Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Arugula (cool)</b></div><div>3 days to germinate and about 10 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGAlqw6QqXXlZOw_jzL3LmfvgWa3Wj-g4sCcWccExTTRIvSUNetB15YmI5aHsp3vokCU0s4GmXzu-ncsS5e-_6qYLfU1zcAJ8EtAWm-fUOsimSMofbLgajGYJpdS6r8dK9PeKtE0uVM8rqLu0YdX9MJUOtoLQWqERGbVVRu6fkSKImpwPYQRfnJx3St0c/w400-h225/Seedling%20Arugula.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Arugula Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>Cucumbers (warm)</b></div><div>3-5 days to germinate and about 8 days from seeding.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWnsXE0VFMps-nBmVg9RsFr9EPIlMSu2zSNBo7mA1UP8vzjJSuTquYDfuSJ2M5NDRLZPkoLB0z2lXnsGWD9KDJ0yxZC96R52DZxVybcdcHQyGbzlcCJpitrjrR4bs2Qi6KH9VkYYsUAUjj1q2e5mdWnekxQUmS3P2OOcvtcme88TAY3iikbjB-RJxrJC4/w400-h225/Seedling%20Cucumbers.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" target="_blank">Cucumber Seedlings</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br />I recommend keeping a journal of the dates you direct seed. Cool crops do germinate more quickly in the warm summer soil but if they don't get the cool temperatures of fall 'soon enough' as they mature, they can quickly flower (bolt) and go to seed. For instance, Pak Choy, was probably planted to early in my garden, so I will plant it again in later August. An example to find the right timing, in your garden, is to plant some seeds like radishes, August 1, August 15, September 1, and September 15. You can assess when the best planting time is for them. If you need seeds for you fall garden please consider going to my seed and garden shop, link below and to all the seedling photograms. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>"A Garden Wants to Give"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Scan" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRqjCIMBIfwKyPAoYc86rWjJ9BfhaeeZ_x0z6KAihfG0OIIjejSZnq1pGBdJsq74DOlO1pO9zjml1jhbpyC7AI4AomQMC07d_OTBsbKJOwZkV6nIBB6VSB3KKv8FrygjNCMMs5Wk2qIv6MrTR3i3mxn5uuAEoxH4VIz7xj7GIBwUxCGDZI5Z3Vkg3sLE/w400-h400/TRGscanandgrowcool.webp" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Scan" target="_blank">At My Seed and Garden Shop</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /><div style="text-align: right;"><br /></div><div><center><br /></center><center>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-25964593119650797302023-08-12T11:17:00.008-04:002023-08-12T13:02:16.712-04:00The Keys to Growing Bell Peppers that Thrive and The Prolific Sweet Banana Pepper<div>Growing bell peppers can be challenging. They tend to need a little bit more in the way of soil preparation and care, verses other peppers. The good news is that the extra care is pretty basic. As for the sweet banana pepper, it is just a very prolific, easy grower, that is perfect for all gardens. Not only do you get a ton of peppers, they also begin producing quite early in the season. They do well in most soil types and just aren't to picky.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.vegega.com/?ref=le64f3gm30" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhew_QBMysHanjq8rKBAAhNLNezexOEkqXfKvYf_viRHn4ARdAFuqmEhFmWMsoI-wCh7Ao3KVA1dwbX5423ZKuOK_yXzhaEV1yaIqlYUhjU21t1RJxA2BgG3H95K4PpzrVj6GUzsyt-kCBs8Z-DcwNOKDxNasnQ8iOJkJ6qudBuH4CvFTiZnZOcjrmu_YM/w640-h360/Bell%20Pepper%20Mature%20in%20Metal%20Bed.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.vegega.com/?ref=le64f3gm30" target="_blank">Happy Thriving Bell Pepper Plants</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>This is the basic set up I use for growing most peppers in my garden. When you watch the video, notice the bell peppers are in a <a href="https://www.vegega.com/?ref=le64f3gm30">V</a><a href="https://www.vegega.com/?ref=le64f3gm30">egega Metal Raised Bed</a> (use my link to view metal beds) and the banana peppers are in a wooden raised bed, I built. While they can be grown 100% in the earth, I like growing bell peppers in some sort of raised bed because I can really create a loose soil. Loose soil, to a good 10-12 inches minimum, really makes a difference for the bell pepper varieties. If you are planting in the earth, (not containers or raised beds), really work the soil to a depth of 12 inches. There are many ways to accomplish this, 'loose soil', and it will vary garden to garden. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Mix One</b></div><div>50% compost and 50% native earth/soil (your ground) </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Mix Two (My Base Mix)</b></div><div>50% peat moss and 50% native soil and cheap bagged top soil (if native earth is not available)</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Mix Three</b></div><div>75% of 'my base mix' and 25% compost</div><div><br /></div><div>The first mix is the gold standard but we all don't have access to compost at times. The second is my general base mix of 50/50 peat/any earth. Once made, I make a mix of 2/3 'my base mix' and 1/3 compost. You can add in organic granular fertilizer once, the beds are filled or about a handful per planting hole. 'Mix Three' can really be varied based on what you like and have available, but the bottom line is that it will be very loose, it will hold moisture, and it is what a bell pepper's root system wants. While many pepper plants do just fine in different soil, they all will thrive in this type of mix. Again, the sweet banana pepper is your friend for production and lesser prepared soil. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkTSJnAJMCPoHE8kQWKlTwayakIaxY_znbZdkQh_C1o5dpCdIDd5-IhRh35okMV2zefhydYhaeH8D6McaMCkopIdL3KW5vYv-uU6qlqr9ztVCTWjlMNayOVRxAxobE183ZdBUpewCEp976zSDeT6a9gLUFxPsAZYJTvln6nJf1xGgM_xjvjFWIF8gcPmQ/s5184/Bell%20Pepper%20Harvest.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkTSJnAJMCPoHE8kQWKlTwayakIaxY_znbZdkQh_C1o5dpCdIDd5-IhRh35okMV2zefhydYhaeH8D6McaMCkopIdL3KW5vYv-uU6qlqr9ztVCTWjlMNayOVRxAxobE183ZdBUpewCEp976zSDeT6a9gLUFxPsAZYJTvln6nJf1xGgM_xjvjFWIF8gcPmQ/w400-h225/Bell%20Pepper%20Harvest.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Typical Bell Pepper Harvest from My Metal Bed</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>You probably have read or heard a lot about not over doing the nitrogen for peppers and to have a granular mix that is higher in phosphorous and potassium. While this is true, it doesn't make much difference with organic granular fertilizers. The reason is that no one tells what over doing nitrogen really means. It typically comes from using excessive water soluble fertilizers. Especially the chemical types that can have 24% nitrogen. Granular fertilizers are slow release fertilizers and tend to have lower numbers in the way of N, P, and K in general. I recommend buying whatever is on sale. </div><div><br /></div><div>The N, P, and K percentages in organic granular fertilizers are fine for initial bed preparation and for a mid-season top dressing. I use the water soluble types (your choice) at planting, a good deep drink for each plant and again midseason with a quick drink. I don't recommend using the water soluble fertilizers more often than 2 or 3x's over the season. If your plants are struggling early on, a quick drink, for the extra nitrogen, will help. Water soluble fertilizers are fast release fertilizers, meaning the plants can access the N, P, and K immediately. Over-use of fast release nitrogen is what causes pepper plant to over grow leaves. This issue is not your slow release fertilizers.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4Gn3xmoRpKA" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Loose soil is the main key. The root systems, of the bell peppers, will thrive and fill up the space early on and they will love the extra care given to the soil. A strong root system is what leads to thriving stems, leaves, and pepper growth. A lot of people focus less on soil preparation and more on fertilizers. Watering is also important, and this soil preparation holds moisture. Moisture is how the plants access all the nutrients. If you aren't watering your peppers 3 or 4x's a week, come mid summer, you aren't watering enough. Of course this varies garden to garden; but error on the side of more.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1Vje7rws-NanCrzi9kjofN4_IlJhmc8yVVc7HvmmiB-cvKtlJQEySV-GQjdS_I28aAojA4Srj_7JZF0v6Mu-K-0B9-RE_tT9bs-CEMLFQY8Hv-2umG7kpjp7zXi3iIXc7KE2rj1v1x3Do-j40S4kfv2mOE87pxQtuzK32kZabAcuZg32ubPqrAWFBqg/s5184/Banana%20Pepper%20Harvest%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1Vje7rws-NanCrzi9kjofN4_IlJhmc8yVVc7HvmmiB-cvKtlJQEySV-GQjdS_I28aAojA4Srj_7JZF0v6Mu-K-0B9-RE_tT9bs-CEMLFQY8Hv-2umG7kpjp7zXi3iIXc7KE2rj1v1x3Do-j40S4kfv2mOE87pxQtuzK32kZabAcuZg32ubPqrAWFBqg/w400-h225/Banana%20Pepper%20Harvest%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Typical Sweet Banana Pepper Harvest - 6 plants</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Finally, sunshine. Peppers love the sun and 8 hours of sunshine is the minimum. Less than that and you get wimpy stems and smaller peppers. I found my bell peppers do best with 10 hours of sun. Notice that I essentially said, earth, water, and sunshine. As I said, it is pretty basic.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>General ongoing care would be staking and managing the flow of air. I recommend removing lower leaves that are blocked by the upper canopy and other plants as the mature. Leaves in shade don't do much but for create homes for pests and diseases. My video from my YouTube channel covers everything discussed here. Bell pepper plants are very fragile. Keep them supported and always cut the peppers from the plant. There is nothing worse than breaking a stem with lots of small peppers on them.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>"A Garden Wants to Give"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-29376738652414079362023-08-09T11:54:00.009-04:002023-08-09T12:00:30.768-04:00Podcast: E-1 The Rusted Garden Homestead: All About Growing, Cooking, & Sharing Food - Getting Started!My new podcast series E-1 is now available! Cheers.<br /><br />The Rusted Garden Homestead podcast will always be about growing, cooking, and sharing food with family and friends. This is the first episode! I talk with my friend Erica Jones, a master gardener and chef. We discuss getting started growing food, basic cooking, what to plant in your garden, garlic, and more!<br /><br />New episodes will be launched on the 2nd and 4th Wednesday of each month. <div><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" />More information about Gary Pilarchik...<br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" />The Rusted Garden seed and garden shop at<a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.therustedgarden.com/</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" />The Rusted Garden on Youtube:<a href="https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/@THERUSTEDGARDEN</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" />Follow Gary Pilarchik on Instagram:<a href="https://www.instagram.com/therustedgarden/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.instagram.com/therustedgarden/</a><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" /><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" />More information about Erica Jones...<br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" />Connect with Erica! at <a href="https://www.edesiagurl.com/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.edesiagurl.com/</a><span face="lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif" style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-size: 16px;"> </span><br style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; caret-color: rgb(102, 102, 102); color: #666666; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px;" />Follow Erica on Instagram:<a href="https://www.instagram.com/edesiagurl/" rel="noopener" style="border: 0px solid rgb(229, 231, 235); box-sizing: border-box; color: #92c13c; font-family: lato, "Helvetic Neue", Arial, san-serif; font-size: 16px; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.instagram.com/edesiagurl/</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><iframe frameborder="0" height="200" loading="lazy" scrolling="no" src="https://www.buzzsprout.com/1846799/13376679-the-rusted-garden-homestead-all-about-growing-cooking-sharing-food-getting-started?client_source=small_player&iframe=true" title="The Rusted Garden Homestead: All About Growing, Cooking & Sharing Food , The Rusted Garden Homestead: All About Growing, Cooking, & Sharing Food - Getting Started!" width="100%"></iframe>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-271443918987681472023-08-08T14:15:00.009-04:002023-08-08T16:39:04.929-04:00How to Make a 'White Oil' Smothering Oil Insect Garden DIY Spray: Perfect for Insect Eggs and Soft Bodied Insects<div>Smothering oil sprays have been used in gardens for centuries. The fine coat of oil covers eggs and soft bodied insects. The oil blocks the movement oxygen, and the eggs or insects basically suffocate. The oil is the main ingredient but the soap can also damage the eggs and insects, however, it is primarily being used to disperse the oil throughout the water. Without soap, the oil just floats, and you can't evenly coat eggs, insects, and leaves. </div><div><br /></div><div>Please follow my blog, as I will be doing an entire series on DIY sprays for pests and diseases. A 'soapy water' spray article is coming soon and that is used for damaging soft bodied and hard bodied insects by using more soap or stronger soaps in the spray. Different plants and insects can require different sprays.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZgMVmgvc8MvDTXAq3X9HkJoJgIGgjQYgJN-D391LWkWCG_OJUtH6xREb7z4Bsp56lDQPIqAmXG-CQiChwkmfderJOvdiAcuhWOarURXgFiEUKEGHgHCeC24NXmHXv3TO6HN8MkT515wcJg7sAh6FB-FOCQ6B_rYdDXYiejVsR2tCJzoP7xR-Jl46kM50/s5184/Smothering%20Oil%20Spray%20Ingredients.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZgMVmgvc8MvDTXAq3X9HkJoJgIGgjQYgJN-D391LWkWCG_OJUtH6xREb7z4Bsp56lDQPIqAmXG-CQiChwkmfderJOvdiAcuhWOarURXgFiEUKEGHgHCeC24NXmHXv3TO6HN8MkT515wcJg7sAh6FB-FOCQ6B_rYdDXYiejVsR2tCJzoP7xR-Jl46kM50/w400-h225/Smothering%20Oil%20Spray%20Ingredients.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">How to Make Smothering Oil Insect Spray</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Rather than lugging out vegetable oil, soap, and measuring spoons every time you want to make this spray, make a jar full of 'white oil'. This is how you can make a concentrate of oil and soap and use it as you wash to make as little or as much of the spray as needed. Sometimes you need a quart and sometimes you need a gallon. </div><div><br /></div><div>It is really important to understand that the terms soap, detergents, and degreasers are used interchangeably and the ingredients for hand soaps, dish soaps, and dish detergents are hard to easily identify. The bottom line is some soaps are pure and mild and other soap are harsh and loaded with degreasers. In theory, they can all be used but you want to use less of the harsher soaps and detergents in your oil mix.</div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Soap Selection</b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Pure Soap:</b> like castile types (no added ingredients).</div><div>This is the safest soap you can use and I use it a lot in my garden. I am not using it in this recipe. if I were, I would increase the amount of soap from 1/2 cup to 3/4 of a cup. Maybe even a full cup.</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Mild/Strong Soaps:</b> like very basic dish soaps with some added ingredients for grease. </div><div>I am using Ivory as seen in the photo and video. I chose this, because this dish soap is often easier to get.</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Harsh Soap:</b> often called detergent soaps.</div><div>We commonly call them soap, but they are detergents for cleaning dishes and the often contain stronger degreasers as ingredients. They often come as concentrates in a bottle. A little goes a long way for dishes but too much in sprays can damage plants.</div><div><br /></div><div>I do recommend using something that falls into the first two soap groupings. I also recommend using the same type of soap every time you make the 'white oil". The ratios I provide vary, when adding the mix to water. I give you a range, because of the above soap concerns, and it is best to start with the lower ratios when using this spray for the first time.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjZfK5oiWBqW34z9VJ0_2jxSvEH2GEMcDUUSu2uY37F1KSaDPQse-ou6QAOyUKfkqs1crcLaDfEViEZmF1jvg1wmaUkkbpIuMkbH2xm0QNdD61zqsJSsE22pDc5nmqL1JyJ29o1tQh_WT7SOWIEctzaE-2mHcKNnYdd_YM5dABoTbU9YQuPgwUOYyq6kU/s5184/Smothering%20White%20Oil%20Mason%20Jar.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjZfK5oiWBqW34z9VJ0_2jxSvEH2GEMcDUUSu2uY37F1KSaDPQse-ou6QAOyUKfkqs1crcLaDfEViEZmF1jvg1wmaUkkbpIuMkbH2xm0QNdD61zqsJSsE22pDc5nmqL1JyJ29o1tQh_WT7SOWIEctzaE-2mHcKNnYdd_YM5dABoTbU9YQuPgwUOYyq6kU/w640-h360/Smothering%20White%20Oil%20Mason%20Jar.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'White Oil" Smothering Insect Oil Spray</td></tr></tbody></table><br />This is how you make a 3:1 ratio of oil to soap or 75%-25% 'white oil" spray. Ratios are made be using equal measures. I am using 1/2 cup as my measure. I find that makes plenty of smothering oil spray. The premade mix will last a year in the jar, if not longer.<div><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Ingredients and Materials</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Any Vegetable Oil</div><div>Soap </div><div>Mason Jar or Repurposed Jar</div><div>Measuring Cup<div><br /></div><div>Mix 1 and 1/2 cups of vegetable oil with 1/2 cup of soap in a jar. That is it. Shake well and also shake well each time you go to use it to make your spray. This is a base mix and other thing can be added to it as you wish.</div><div><br /></div><div>I do recommend making a quart of this spray with 1or 2 teaspoon of the "white oil" and test spraying. Wait 48 hours and look for damage. If you don't see any damage, make a mix with 2 or 3 teaspoons of the oil, in a quart of water, and test spray again. If there is no damage, you have a mix that you can use in your garden. Here is my video from my YouTube channel that shows you how to make it.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N2knY2OfZZo" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Making the Actual Spray</b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>2 to 3 teaspoons of the oil mix per quart of water</div><div><br /></div><div>1.5 to 3 tablespoons of oil mix per gallon of water</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Spraying Frequency</b></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Maintenance and Prevention</b> - Every 10-14 days</div><div>Only target plants that have had issues in the past. There is no need to spray every plant in your garden.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Outbreaks and Infestation</b>s - Every 3-5 days for 3 cycles</div><div>I would use this every 3 days for whiteflies and every 5 days for aphids. Each garden varies on the pests it gets.</div><div><br /></div><div>Generally speaking, the best time to spray is in the morning or evening when temperatures are cooler. Spraying any spray on fully sunny days when temperatures are in the 90's, can lead to leaf damage even when you have been using the same spray for years.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Final word.... Yep... Test spray all new sprays you introduce to your garden.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>"A Garden Wants to Give"</div><div>Cheers!<br /><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><center><br />
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-76691741513971707172023-08-07T13:05:00.008-04:002023-08-07T13:15:55.751-04:00Jalapeno Sour Dill Garden Cucumber Pickles in 4 Hours: The Simplest Garden Pickling Recipe Ever!<center style="text-align: left;">Ever wonder what to do with all your garden cucumbers? Make sour pickles using 5% apple cider vinegar. I have been doing this for years and have really been working on the recipes this season. It is really just this easy. Apple cider vinegar is 5% acidic. This level of acidity makes it almost impossible for bacteria to grow and pickling happens quickly. Add in salt and you have a pickling solution that preserves. We are not canning and therefore, I recommend storing your pickled garden produce in the refrigerator after they sit a couple of days, pickling.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAlNY_d3aAQYsciXh8aeK60cfcXURRrKbH9f8SrON6GIn0q7qp2PdIvfRknFJRuiuI3KgHsx05i4XCTs4GGugwiqg42RnvNj-DhdPwLj8MZ38wVdjcbOHzBOixADV8vIc5qVs_3aDIdGBoK2Cm3S2hUElGHH1bfDX_bl4VkGDvQVXIMD5T6YMbjjpePg/s5184/Jalapeno%20Pickles%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAlNY_d3aAQYsciXh8aeK60cfcXURRrKbH9f8SrON6GIn0q7qp2PdIvfRknFJRuiuI3KgHsx05i4XCTs4GGugwiqg42RnvNj-DhdPwLj8MZ38wVdjcbOHzBOixADV8vIc5qVs_3aDIdGBoK2Cm3S2hUElGHH1bfDX_bl4VkGDvQVXIMD5T6YMbjjpePg/w400-h225/Jalapeno%20Pickles%201.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jalapeno Dill Pickles Quick Recipe</td></tr></tbody></table><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><b>Ingredients:</b></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Cucumbers or any garden vegetable</center><center style="text-align: left;">5% apple cider vinegar</center><center style="text-align: left;">Salt</center><center style="text-align: left;">Garlic</center><center style="text-align: left;">Jalapeños (1-3)</center><center style="text-align: left;">Dill</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Everything, but the vinegar and salt, came from my garden. You can adjust the recipe however you want by varying the pickling ingredients. The combinations are really endless. This is basically just vinegar and cucumbers, seasoned as you wish. They are more sour than typical pickles, as we are using a 5% acidic solution but the sourness mellows over a weeks time. I like them at all stages.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">You can use any type of container but metal. Acid (vinegar) and certain metals can react creating a metallic flavor, which of course you don't want.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></center><center style="text-align: left;"><b>Step One:</b></center><center style="text-align: left;">Slice the desired amount of cucumbers (any thickness you prefer) until the container or containers are filled with cucumbers. Leave enough room for the vinegar to just cover the cucumber slices on top. In the pictures I used two 12 inch 'Marketmore' cucumbers. I think this variety is the best slicing pickling cucumber out there.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></center><center style="text-align: left;"><b>Step Two:</b></center><center style="text-align: left;">I added 2 tablespoons of salt to this batch. Salt to your taste. It can also be omitted.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEGETyfBt8lHCrkzxiOtNozulWthj8sMhBtYjvp_uh4T4y0jLRoXblhJhGm4kEgEHwF_-j657qPzXEFiZnbEhhOcXrq56OwIuSfODsSn0krbQC3ymEJBrf_SGEwEgvLVmPBE_DuNg6uANyIVf7MIC-faFEhP-VeB82jalch0BjMiqAjJicdVmAWDA-kSY/s5184/Jalapeno%20Pickles%203.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEGETyfBt8lHCrkzxiOtNozulWthj8sMhBtYjvp_uh4T4y0jLRoXblhJhGm4kEgEHwF_-j657qPzXEFiZnbEhhOcXrq56OwIuSfODsSn0krbQC3ymEJBrf_SGEwEgvLVmPBE_DuNg6uANyIVf7MIC-faFEhP-VeB82jalch0BjMiqAjJicdVmAWDA-kSY/w640-h360/Jalapeno%20Pickles%203.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Simple and Delicious Quick Pickling Recipe</td></tr></tbody></table><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><b>Step Three:</b></center><center style="text-align: left;">Add 1 or 2 cloves of pressed garlic. You can also just thinly slice the garlic cloves. Again this is based on your taste preference.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /><b>Step Four:</b></center><center style="text-align: left;">Add about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of finely chopped fresh dill.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><b>Step Five:</b></center><center style="text-align: left;">Thinly slice 1-3 jalapenos based on how hot you would like the batch to be. Removing seeds and pith does reduce the heat. Add the peppers to the brine and mix the ingredients lightly.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><b>Step Six:</b></center><center style="text-align: left;">Cover and let them sit on the counter for 1 or 2 days. They are really partially pickled in about 4 hours and I do eat them. I actually eat them very often over the whole pickling period. So good! They are fully pickled in about 12 hours. The flavors mellow and combine more over 1-2 days. After they are pickled to your liking, refrigerate.</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Cucumbers" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2QLQDVzWkOYOQrptUY85rhfjjx0ktH4onZxKaTF3GO9BoBa2ZEireUOdjBoVHsC_DvvPVmT1rq6zWCyh1l6EYGTSaxb5_VjNwXAvAmZYSvSDcsnxzlOjA6OwB314_ZPLL7ZCTENm1y7JkL_yXnMMcn56caDbS4veHSWh0MjOXSy8Z9Yj6GOs6nx86MVA/s320/cucumber_marketmore_600x600.webp" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Cucumbers" target="_blank">At My Shop: Marketmore Cucumbers</a></td></tr></tbody></table><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Now, as stated, we aren't canning for storage outside the refrigerator. I recommend researching how 5% acidity manages food bacteria and you can make a decision based on that. Refrigeration after a couple days is the best way to go. If you are nervous about food bacteria, refrigerate these right away. The process will still work. I also pickle beets, kohlrabi, radishes, radish pods, daylily flowers, and other vegetables this way. Enjoy!</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">"A Garden Wants to Give"</center><center style="text-align: left;">Cheers!<br /><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Gary (The Rusted Garden)</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Cucumbers" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="492" data-original-width="492" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPy_u0WYXqp0uho3n8NgN_S6X1V5Z2cJoRtotXhZV2LBxTxR2K5IYNC3mR3uXWeHsBDrUErKH3AFBDWyFyrhI1yQafEoSK1A9RzXhjDC-x3d8eZUI6kdWnuYVJnqa_XG7LO2vXY7oUGsD8JLGWe7z3EdCO4CnAGyz9EgZ4srIRk8qXmIwTFjFsQW3rAE/w400-h400/QRHerbDill_245509f2-b49f-4bdb-bed0-4ebf602feb50_600x600.webp" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Cucumbers" target="_blank">At My Shop: Dill from My Scan and Grow Collection</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-38472645927551695402023-08-06T17:35:00.026-04:002023-08-07T09:07:49.377-04:0035 Crops You Can Direct Seed in August & September for a Fabulous Fall Garden<div>Like many, I get burned out with the heat of summer and it is harder to manage the garden. I also know I love the garden in the fall. Picturing the garden, when the heat breaks, helps me stay motivated. Planting seeds now really translates into fall gardening and life enjoyment for me. The crops that love the cool weather, and can take a frost, are some of my favorite plants to eat and grow.</div><div><br />The first thing to understand is that planting times vary, so you want to test out directing seeding times and take notes. For example plant some radishes early August, late August, and mid September. Take notes on growth and harvest and see which planting time yields the best radishes. Now you have a guideline for next year</div><div><div><br /></div><div>The second thing to understand is that the germination time and days to maturity, on the back of a seed pack, are wrong for plants seeded in August. They will germinate much more quickly and grow faster. We are using this to our advantage for a fall garden.</div><div><br /></div><div>The third thing to understand is that the warm crops need a lot less time to mature, based above, therefore you can plant them much later than you think. Cool crops can be planted anytime in theory, but if it is too early, before the cool of fall rolls in when they are maturing, they often bolt and flower. Both crops will grow more quickly in the higher warmth of August.</div><div><br /></div><div>The fourth thing is that the shade of beans, cucumbers, corn, trees, and other plants can be used to help get those cool crops started earlier. The shade can lower soil temperatures by 15 or 20 degrees. Of course you can use shade cloth to help. Your garden may have pockets of cooler soil for you cool crops. The cooler soil temperatures slows bolting but the warmer ambient temperatures help the plants grow more quickly.</div><div><br /></div><div>And finally, water, water, water. You probably have to water seeds daily in high heat and every other day were it might be just a bit less hot. They need to stay well watered for 10-14 days after germination. The hot sun can damage seedlings in a single hot afternoon.</div><div><br /></div><div>A great way to go, for fall gardening, is looking for varieties the mature more quickly. I am growing 65 day corn. You can find cantaloupe, melons, and even pumpkins that can mature in 65 days. Take some time to find varieties that mature quickly, if you have a shorter period of time, in the fall, before frost rolls in. Warm crops for sure, but even cool crops that mature quickly can make a difference in your garden. Take notes and use them each year to make the following year a better experience.<br /><br /><br />The plants below are listed in order as they appear on my YouTube video, 35 Crops You Can Direct Seed in August & September: Warm & Cool Crops- Planting Tips & List Below!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/hdxc0Tq-564" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><b>35 Crops or So You Can Plant for A Fall Garden</b></div></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Carrots (</b><b>Cool) </b>If kept watered, carrots do really well germinating in August and mellowing and developing nicely when the cool temperatures of fall roll in. Keep in mind you can do short carrots, if you have clay or rocky soil. </div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><div><b>Turnips (Cool</b>) You can't really go wrong with them as the greens are definitely edible and delicious. They germinate really quickly. A lot of people grow them for greens through the summer. </div><div> </div><div><b>Beets (Cool)</b> A beet seed is actually a pod containing many seeds. You may get several plants in one space. Thin, to allow 1 or 2 plants to mature per planting hole. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Dill (Warm) </b>A lot of people don't know dill can actually manage a light frost. So it is perfect for planting late summer. It matures to a good size, about 45 days after germination.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Cilantro (Warm and Cool)</b> It actually does best in cool temperatures and it can take a frost. I throw seed all over my garden late fall and let it sit. Come early spring I have cilantro all over. Bees and pollinators love it, if you let it flower.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Bush Beans (Warm)</b> They can be ready in 40 days or less, from germination. Bush beans are often under grown/planted in the garden, beyond the first planting in June or July. They can be planted through out the entire summer, tucked in pockets all over the garden.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Spinach (Cool) </b> Spinach can bolt really fast, especially when grown as a transplant, I recommend direct seeding it. It does pretty well once germinated when temperatures are warmer but it does not like germinating in really hot soil. Soil shade really helps. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Cool+crops" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIUFzpcIPBuFty_T5mCB-rkq-npS_4gl1wyFv3gmslqvEPWYtev1Ls2dgYH8zMfAaT4dE8lLeJIhiMxpngld6q3rLIQ0wXwES0wkf0KCM8MvjY6bVXsLbhM1sjvAxccw2wr73S2U5NxGbZG1TDy__--xU2u7m3atzgPw83ltnOJ7hV5PxtU8La8P4LnN4/w400-h400/QRCoolWeatherCollection_600x600.jpg.webp" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Cool+crops" target="_blank">At My Shop: Cool Weather Seed Collection</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Swiss Chard (Warm and Cool) </b>It grows well, spring, summer, and fall. I don't like the taste and leaf texture in the summer. And my spring chard that makes it into August, gets all its leaves removed. I like the new leaves that grow into to fall. The leaves are sweeter and less tough.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Peas (Cool) </b>The beauty of peas is that you can also eat the tendrils. They taste like peas! So even if you get a late start there will be tendrils you can eat. Pea leaves and shoots can manage a frost but the flowers and pods can't. I like starting peas pretty early in August as to have them begin producing before my frosts arrive.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Bunching Onion (Warm and Cool) </b>Plant them all season long when you have space. They are super frost tolerant and can last through the freeze of winter here in Maryland.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Arugula (Cool) </b>It bolts super fast but germinates really quickly. Best planted when the soil is cooler and they days are cooling off. It can be ready in little as 25 days after germination. I am growing plants now under corn.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Mustard Greens (Cool) </b>Another crop the bolts and flowers quickly but it is really fast grower. I plant them in late August, in Maryland, and throughout the beginning of September. If you don't like the spiciness of the leaves raw, cook them. They really mellow out and make a great green.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Radish Daikon (Cool) A</b> long radish that can take 40-60 days to mature. It can handle frost and is best planted a bit later in August unless you have some plants shading the seeding area.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Pak Choy (Cool) </b> A delicious loose cabbage that should never be started as transplants. If you have done this or purchased transplants, you know they bolt before fully forming. Direct seed Pak Choy in the garden when temperatures cool greatly. They mature very quickly and can take a solid frost. Asian greens do really well in garden that get less sun.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Bok Choy (Cool) </b> Ditto to Pak Choy</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Chinese/Asian Cabbage (Cool) </b>Generally speaking all Asian cabbages and greens bolt quickly in warm soil and hot days. They are best planted when things are cooling down. I recommend direct seeding.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Lettuce Romaine (Cool) </b>One of my favorite lettuces to grow to full heads. A little shade helps them early in August. I generally plant them over the last 2 weeks of August to get them growing. They can take a frost. Because I want them full size, sooner than later, I do like planting some seeds when it's warmer.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Cabbage (Cool) </b>Cabbage can take a frost and takes a while to mature. You can certainly seed them directly but transplant are often a good way to go. Even if you don't have time for full heads to form, you can eat all the developing leaves.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Broccoli (Cool) </b>Again, very often, best planted as a transplant but broccoli varieties with shorter days to maturity do really well planted as seeds. They can take a frost but the forming head can't take a prolonged frost like the leaves. So it sometimes gets damaged.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Cauliflower (Cool)</b> Ditto to Broccoli.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Brussels Sprouts (Cool) </b>Ditto to Broccoli and Cauliflower. I do recommend transplants for these and the variety I like is called 'Jade'. It produces lots of sprouts with a shorter maturing period.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Root+Pouch" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrywKRpWl4N2SxH0B6dTuTtdfiwdlcLdEwlQC9hNLJyNNQdDm47xzIDNfXqVwuXp6NzzYQc-iuJczKlUKL-pxWPojjheM-OZiFl757bw8gLTCDSDhINymfHKH0hDUcAgKXwp8wP2y2X_f0tqVG5LRyE46ti4WY7ugfxgDQ0NNe9uR613bXT59h2t82V68/w400-h400/RootPouch10GallonSIngle-Gary_605f4662-fd32-48c8-bb96-6f742e1c9ee5_600x600.jpg.webp" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Root+Pouch" target="_blank">At My Shop: A Fall Garden in Fabric Pots</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Zucchini (Warm) </b>I am on wave 3 or 4 in my garden. Once germinated, and they can germinate in 4 days, they can start producing in as little as 30 days.</div><div> </div><div><b>Cucumbers (Warm)</b> I keep planting cucumbers all season long into mid August. They will also germinate in 4 days and can start producing in 40 days or even less. Zucchini and cucumbers are wonderful warm crops to push to first frost.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Salad Mache (Cool)</b> Not my favorite but a really fast grower for leafy greens. They need cooler soil.</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Cantaloupe (Warm) </b> There are a lot of 65 days to maturity varieties and that is even accelerated with warm soil. My first frost date is around the end of October. I plant a final crop in the first week of August. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Melons (Warm) </b>Ditto to Cantaloupe</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Pumpkin (Warm) </b>Though you can find them with shorter days to maturity, I find August 1st to be good. This way I get about 80 days of no frost.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Chives (Warm and Cool) </b> Easy to grow. They are perennials and can be divided every year and placed all around the garden.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Fennel (Warm) </b> A great tasting herb if you like licorice flavor. It has a great texture and crunch.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Celery (Cool)</b> Plant several seeds in a hole as germination can be tough. Barely cover them with soil. Germination is faster in the warmth but they don't like baking soil. Keep them moist and use the shade of other plants or a shade cloth when starting them. If you don't get mature stalks, you can use the leaves in stews and salads. The roots have survived winters in Maryland. New growth showed up early spring.</div><div> </div><div><b>Kohlrabi (Cool) </b>They do really well direct seeded in August and mature nicely over the fall. If you have lots of white fly pressure, I recommend planting them in long rows so they are easier to spray.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Endive (Cool) </b>A great firm texture salad green with a crunch and mild bitterness. Very resistant to frost and insects tend to leave it alone.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Radish Globe Type (Cool)</b> Radishes are best planted every 2 weeks starting in the middle of August. They can mature in as little as 25 days. They can take a frost and be planted even when frost is around.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Lettuce Buttercrunch (Cool) </b> Just a great lettuce leaf that can hold dressing but is more like a loose leaf. They do prefer cooler soil, so experiment with the timing of planting.</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Kale (Warm and Cool) </b> They can grow spring, summer, and fall. I don't like their flavor during the summer. They can handle the winters here in Maryland and come spring, they produce 100's of buds and flowers that can be eaten.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Collards (Warm and Cool)</b> Also a three season crop that tastes best with a touch of frost. They bolt sometimes during the summer. </div><div><br /></div><div><b>Parsley (Warm and Cool) </b>A great fall garden crops that can handle the winter. It tends to flower the 2nd year and it attracts butterflies and pollinators.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Pick a handful of cool crops you enjoy and maybe plant a few cucumber seeds in August. I think you will be surprised at how well some warm crops do in the fall and you will enjoy watching the green growth of the cool crops. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>"A Garden Wants to Give"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br /></div><div><center><br />
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-68009816898047211312023-08-03T14:23:00.001-04:002023-08-03T17:43:39.553-04:00A Simple Inexpensive Garden Shade Hack for Seeds and Transplants: Cool the Soil for Your Summer Planted Cool Weather CropsCool weather crops can be planted in the spring and late summer for a fall garden. The problem with planting cool crops in the summer is that the soil temperature (the top couple of inches) often gets too hot and that can impact germination, kill newly germinated seeds, and even kill seedlings and transplants. The baking sun can raise the surface soil temperature to well over 100 degrees, temperatures cool crops do not like. Shade cloth can be expensive and it is not always needed or practical for small pockets of plants.<div><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF1HkdlMzZSgLENIzzNQZws3RkTxVYKjOhIdfWQ0vU3nNsChm4VSYOg8RWmQVU1-wWhs5V87Zp3hbDljs87NpGL4RV1eRUGGAvqxCWvPSeqthC82pped3qz9kifqOMecgo8k_EkRS9qE2BFCvLtcPV0-MtIw5RYHoShfaRZUNLLbVsDEVXQ-IYdSnf4E/s5184/Shade%20Hack%20Foil%20and%20Cardboard.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirF1HkdlMzZSgLENIzzNQZws3RkTxVYKjOhIdfWQ0vU3nNsChm4VSYOg8RWmQVU1-wWhs5V87Zp3hbDljs87NpGL4RV1eRUGGAvqxCWvPSeqthC82pped3qz9kifqOMecgo8k_EkRS9qE2BFCvLtcPV0-MtIw5RYHoShfaRZUNLLbVsDEVXQ-IYdSnf4E/w400-h225/Shade%20Hack%20Foil%20and%20Cardboard.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Garden Shade Hack </td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>The benefit of direct seeding cool crops, in August, is that they love the warm surrounding ambient temperatures and grow quickly. This accelerated August growth gets them set up for the cooler temperatures of fall, where they can finishing maturing and produce in our gardens before heavy freezes roll in. Early growth can make all the difference in fall garden harvests.</div><div><br /></div><div>Root systems, in general, use soil temperature to regulate growth. You can make a simple shade canopy for your crops. These idea can be used and expanded in many ways and is based on a simple umbrella. Soil that is shaded can be 15-20 degrees cooler and that is perfect for cool crops. When planting large beds with cool weather crops, a shade cloth is probably more practical. But this design is perfect for containers and limited planting in earth beds.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikEdrKQ6YSphOswNhiO6HtqQ0hP6dYr75p0MpR8SLqo1JHWSuMVlAX5Fzhffpj5uL7QOkU8Qtr_SDXKidNruO59iEaRiOb4Lpr2qSdt7cMV8POSqd-7ObMPJn-oWWMWU0I1WzOgkSrs2GRKC5eu9YEdQ1JEBMXF3lPdUChVngBUCXHtqJ40CAOzBOfF0E/s5184/Shade%20Hack%20Foil%20Tray.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikEdrKQ6YSphOswNhiO6HtqQ0hP6dYr75p0MpR8SLqo1JHWSuMVlAX5Fzhffpj5uL7QOkU8Qtr_SDXKidNruO59iEaRiOb4Lpr2qSdt7cMV8POSqd-7ObMPJn-oWWMWU0I1WzOgkSrs2GRKC5eu9YEdQ1JEBMXF3lPdUChVngBUCXHtqJ40CAOzBOfF0E/w400-h225/Shade%20Hack%20Foil%20Tray.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Foil Baking Tray Creates Shade for the Garden</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b>Materials List:</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Branches or bamboo stakes</div><div>Clothespins</div><div>Aluminum foil baking trays or cardboard boxes</div><div><br /></div><div>All you do is insert the branch or stake into the center of the tray or box and use the clothespin to stop it from sliding down from its position. You can adjust the tray or box up and down the stake as needed. Use this design in principle and adapt the design to your needs. The video is from my YouTube channel. Please use may secure Amazon Shop for purchasing clothespins and foil trays. Thanks!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNN2rXnrkLoIUeHIvmTRtSjwghJXmfuGbB9sG8294hnIDemud3X2_aXt7QMBtIL3BJZL03Apl89GYgFHdm9aQ6cnCT8BZuuBNcnL2JB4dc8zpizCSv_w9N9pW-7ypn7uXMi9cVLdm8HmznMoaEqJN-VQst8njfgU7B2snGGLpv5e_bOuX4PHObxOLMgo/s5184/Shade%20Hack%20Clothespin%20and%20Foil%20tray.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUNN2rXnrkLoIUeHIvmTRtSjwghJXmfuGbB9sG8294hnIDemud3X2_aXt7QMBtIL3BJZL03Apl89GYgFHdm9aQ6cnCT8BZuuBNcnL2JB4dc8zpizCSv_w9N9pW-7ypn7uXMi9cVLdm8HmznMoaEqJN-VQst8njfgU7B2snGGLpv5e_bOuX4PHObxOLMgo/w400-h225/Shade%20Hack%20Clothespin%20and%20Foil%20tray.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Clothespin Secures the Try on the Post</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3kLldYgnSGE" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>"Good Luck in Your Gardens"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br /></div><div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-25807813273937034942023-08-02T12:21:00.017-04:002023-08-03T10:16:36.788-04:002 Common Mistakes to Avoid When Planting Peas in the Heat of Summer for your Fall Vegetable GardenPeas are cool weather crops but should be started in the summer (when hot) for a wonderful fall crop of garden peas. Pea stems, tendrils, and leaves can take a frost during the night and remain undamaged. However, pea flowers and pods can be damaged from frost. When peas are planted in the spring, the chances of frost is usually around while the stems, tendrils, and leaves form and grow. When the chance of frost is gone, the flower and pods are usually forming. That is what makes peas a wonder cool season crop. There are 2 common mistakes both new and experienced gardeners make when growing peas from the summer into the fall.<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-W7guNFpfi1jr4ldIeeDFJPu60ua7tmrT51xfcyWWvra6nyaZlyiavv46lQ9K4GfhlzgbWHg8IZeAftEWpDCSaBEEHT-HtdalGPmzdICfeM3y2JtbdSMVUW1RA-1BS0Qaae5f1LLPazopvS0hAyUij6mgN9Jr_lSOI5phBU_mSqcRz6kykaUKf7DRhQ/s5184/Pea%20Seed%20Planting%20in%20a%20Row.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS-W7guNFpfi1jr4ldIeeDFJPu60ua7tmrT51xfcyWWvra6nyaZlyiavv46lQ9K4GfhlzgbWHg8IZeAftEWpDCSaBEEHT-HtdalGPmzdICfeM3y2JtbdSMVUW1RA-1BS0Qaae5f1LLPazopvS0hAyUij6mgN9Jr_lSOI5phBU_mSqcRz6kykaUKf7DRhQ/w400-h225/Pea%20Seed%20Planting%20in%20a%20Row.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Row Of Peas for a Fall Garden</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /><b>Mistake One: </b>Frost Arrives Before Peapods Fully Mature<div><br /></div><div>The 'days to harvest' on a seed package is a guideline. It usually means when a plant just begins producing. With peas, you want to add another 2-3 weeks, of frost free time, to that date as the harvesting period of peapods. Many gardeners look at a 70 day to maturity pea variety, as an example, and don't take into account a harvest period of time. As the pods begin to form, the frost arrives, damages the flower and pods, and they have beautiful pea plants but little harvest. <br /><br />What does that mean?</div><div><br /></div><div>I planted my shelling peas on August 2nd in my garden and they have a 'days to harvest' of 75. That means from germination the peas should begin producing (or forming) around 75 days later. My average first heavy frost date is around October 31st. That gives me about 90 days of time for my plants to grow and produce. The extra 2 weeks is my peapod harvesting period. Most people use the 'days to harvest' right up to their average frost date and forget about a harvesting period.</div><div><br /></div><div>In the summer we are going from no frost to frost and, unlike spring to fall, the flowers and pods are arriving when frost is arriving. They often collide. You have to allow a period of time for an extended harvest. You may have noticed my math is not exact as the 'days to harvest' is a guideline. And with the warmth of summer, seeds germinate faster and plants mature more quickly. That is a good thing, but summer heat for peas can be a problem.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLAYLuDoiZf61KlH-rP-lXJNdTk5AGWTyrpUbrNN6sJnzf1zHVgJb-EazAZSlksIS4fjNU1pUjcgWtsRTXf4QAV14pMbY2XXcAkEg3saetNUwavrvdejr7ATLSYSSQpojz5-yVdM3HEHQPaSw8-iLTjfBCGbw-t1jxmGaJvMclQdZRoaFeDVcdfNnSpbk/s5184/Peas%20100%20Gallon%20Fabric%20Pot%20and%20Cages.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLAYLuDoiZf61KlH-rP-lXJNdTk5AGWTyrpUbrNN6sJnzf1zHVgJb-EazAZSlksIS4fjNU1pUjcgWtsRTXf4QAV14pMbY2XXcAkEg3saetNUwavrvdejr7ATLSYSSQpojz5-yVdM3HEHQPaSw8-iLTjfBCGbw-t1jxmGaJvMclQdZRoaFeDVcdfNnSpbk/w400-h225/Peas%20100%20Gallon%20Fabric%20Pot%20and%20Cages.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using Tomato Cages as a Future Shade Cloth Frame</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Mistake Two:</b> Pea Plants are Left to Bake in the Summer Sun</div><div><br /></div><div>Peas generally like cool days in the 60's and lower 70's and night in the upper 50's. They are cool weather crops. Soil temperature is as important, if not more important, than ambient temperature. Most plants get signals through their roots on how to grow based on soil temperature. When we talk about soil temperature we are talking about the top 4-6 inches. The summer sun can bake and raise the top 2 inches of soil over 100 degrees. This can inhibit seed germination in some cases, it can literally cook newly germinating seeds, and it can kill off seedling. The baking sun is often overlooked.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQz9mz3qvLRn1tZwcBxIrB6oEu8ea4kUIy8MbHCmvX064HWSSekVESqvAhOy0vWb-kdm2_pvBpPFs9RcQVJI5caSHu9t-FuA_s4jLWI1llCt9UumDPw4A5H-aXQSoA0araawcwZ53bh7l_kLbxV3YS3X7_LF5PngDhKBxhdm1xqImslOtzb7kD_T_hXK0/s5184/Shade%20Cloth%20Cucumbers%20Peas%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQz9mz3qvLRn1tZwcBxIrB6oEu8ea4kUIy8MbHCmvX064HWSSekVESqvAhOy0vWb-kdm2_pvBpPFs9RcQVJI5caSHu9t-FuA_s4jLWI1llCt9UumDPw4A5H-aXQSoA0araawcwZ53bh7l_kLbxV3YS3X7_LF5PngDhKBxhdm1xqImslOtzb7kD_T_hXK0/w400-h225/Shade%20Cloth%20Cucumbers%20Peas%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shade Cloth for Summer Planted Fall Peas</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Shade cloth is the answer for peas, as well as other summer planted cool crops. I recommend using a 50%-70% shade cloth over your pea plants. 70% means 70% of the sun is blocked. This can cool the top several inches of soil by 20 degrees. Peas do quite will with 80 degree soil temperature. They will establish and grow quickly and be ready for the cooling fall temperatures of September. </div><div><br /></div><div>Here is a link to my secure Amazon Shop <a href="https://www.amazon.com/shop/garypilarchiktherustedgarden">https://www.amazon.com/shop/garypilarchiktherustedgarden</a> for examples of shade cloth. They come in all different shapes and sizes and I do recommend getting cloth with grommets. They are reinforced holes to help you hang your cloth. </div><div><br /></div><div>In my YouTube video I demonstrate a basic way to hang shade cloth. You can raise and lower it based on the time of day and heat of the summer day. Generally speaking, shade cloth can be left up but I do like dropping it for the leave to get some full sun when it is the morning or late afternoon.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dpitb15nDIM" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>It is also important to water your new planted pea seeds and seedlings 3 or 4 times a week. And remember the soil can heat up over 100 degrees, which can prevent seeds from germinating, kill off germinated seeds, and even kill of seedlings. Once the plants are a couple inches tall, mulching will help keep the soil temperature cooler and help maintain soil moisture.</div><div><br /></div><div>Please follow my blog as I will be writing weekly articles to help you have a better garden.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Peas" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="499" data-original-width="499" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2S2nWpyeFrbVho3eL_DEERi7nLqLu4se74gMVDHnREnVUR_ZraqnQtYNLUzhalfDMWfcvFXwjM4OBnQf7-neOMMtlx6Yiazdt0gYMM5RcHCID4J4izf3kZ_d5kEykzczkiBXcHypAteJW7rKBRRDr989dCkdMdNFp_oXxyaJ8rZA0pTE9xAU81O3apGo/s320/Peas%20TRG%20Scan.webp" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Peas" target="_blank">At My Shop: Pea Seeds & Fabric Pots</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>"A Garden Wants to Give"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br />Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br />
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-69302346173006165862023-08-01T11:56:00.003-04:002023-08-01T17:26:37.911-04:00How to Kill Ants in Your Garden Using Items You Can Buy at a Grocery Store: Two DIY Garden Ant Killers - Cornmeal & Borax<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXiZLBR4ecCaGlhUB1l6aN6a4r1yp877GK87xoJCEDifZa72NV7WL_sgH5DzeLRO8fPC-HognK7fihMWLEKHXTLRVJVFXIp_Hss9HmpN7mfIK8j6mp2_zYlb_EoD5VDU5786kWvSz1VwVzXcCvqhTrj2AuxtVLm0akIbVyQOH8k--PZI8idO2MwwohoC4/s4177/DIY%20Ant%20%20Baits%20Ingredients.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2557" data-original-width="4177" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXiZLBR4ecCaGlhUB1l6aN6a4r1yp877GK87xoJCEDifZa72NV7WL_sgH5DzeLRO8fPC-HognK7fihMWLEKHXTLRVJVFXIp_Hss9HmpN7mfIK8j6mp2_zYlb_EoD5VDU5786kWvSz1VwVzXcCvqhTrj2AuxtVLm0akIbVyQOH8k--PZI8idO2MwwohoC4/s320/DIY%20Ant%20%20Baits%20Ingredients.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grocery Store Garden DIY Remedy Series</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div>Ants are a common problem in gardens. There are many species of ants and not all of them are harmful to the growing plants. I have had varieties, in my Maryland garden, that establish colonies in my planting beds and damage root growth. Some ants eat sugars, other ants eat proteins, and some ants eat both. It is always a good thing when you are able to identify the problem insects and understand the damage they cause and their life cycle. However, that is not always easy to do. The ants in my garden are primarily sugar eaters.<div><br /></div><div>Here are 2 ways to control ants in your garden and around your property. One is literally as simple as sprinkling cornmeal around the ant colony and the other is a little bit more elaborate using Borax laundry soap and sugar. Let's start with the most benign but not as effective DIY ant killer, cornmeal.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoNWW95lwhyMhY8ORDev7PSHq7BPq3MpY3JK4GvO_f3r3pO01aNF0ktZZSdrxUa_o_ZUQ27krTkLcJ5lPlTAKKtN9gwM6GfyK0woGLnEApr1ACNwt6SCzTnHHGkEsct1t5kzOONfICBUNub7zkXx-3bqlbwxoMj0b9BIgzxMyrYaiEyOtI5O4ailcqjzY/s5184/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Cornmeal.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoNWW95lwhyMhY8ORDev7PSHq7BPq3MpY3JK4GvO_f3r3pO01aNF0ktZZSdrxUa_o_ZUQ27krTkLcJ5lPlTAKKtN9gwM6GfyK0woGLnEApr1ACNwt6SCzTnHHGkEsct1t5kzOONfICBUNub7zkXx-3bqlbwxoMj0b9BIgzxMyrYaiEyOtI5O4ailcqjzY/w400-h225/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Cornmeal.JPG" title="Cornmeal Ant Killer" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DIY Garden Ant Killer: Plain Cornmeal</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><br /><b>Locate Ant Trails and Colonies:</b></div><div>Ants tend to follow specific paths as they search for food and they mark trails. Colonies can sometimes easily be found in the garden. Colonies may be found in earth beds, containers, or under bags of unused garden soil and mulch.<br /><br /><b>Scatter Cornmeal in Your Garden: </b></div><div>Sprinkle dry cornmeal liberally along the trails and on and around the colony. Do this first application when there will be several days of dry weather.<br /><b><br />Ants Consume It but Can't Digest It: </b></div><div>Ants are not able to digest cornmeal properly. One thought is they can't digest it and another thought is it expands after they eat it and it cause problems. <br /><br /><b>May Take 7-10 Days to Work:</b></div><div>Cornmeal takes time to show results and its effectiveness varies greatly. My understanding is that it works about 1/2 the time, depending on the ant species and size of the establish colony.<br /><br />Cornmeal can work, but evidence is limited around regular success. A second application can be used when the cornmeal is gone or when 7 days have passed. However, if the ants are still present, 2 weeks after the first application, it is probably time to move on to the DIY Borax and sugar ant bait.<br /><br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Qau2JNJMM-jXUHoDeFNj-w2KnwX0ASPaU840odUK7UyYTtN3NP705DlZAaszd2--COQ1TQXm1NiQ5e2bAlGnd8RsdrB9cXSmpbayaFW97UxvoRvbWPuPE7O18cezkG1N6V8wUfgzug19CuGRQx-X9EPa3N_lKAVv_eJYrAeytxqeiyr_OXiilYkvguM/s3623/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Ingredients%20Set%20Up%202.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2819" data-original-width="3623" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9Qau2JNJMM-jXUHoDeFNj-w2KnwX0ASPaU840odUK7UyYTtN3NP705DlZAaszd2--COQ1TQXm1NiQ5e2bAlGnd8RsdrB9cXSmpbayaFW97UxvoRvbWPuPE7O18cezkG1N6V8wUfgzug19CuGRQx-X9EPa3N_lKAVv_eJYrAeytxqeiyr_OXiilYkvguM/w400-h311/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Ingredients%20Set%20Up%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><br />I have used Borax bait ant killer for many years and I find it to be very effective, within a couple days, you should see results. Borax is a brand of laundry product and it contains only one ingredient, sodium borate. The boron is what kills the ants. In order for them to eat it, it must be mixed with sugar. Any source of sodium borate would work. Sodium borate is a chemical compound that does occur naturally.</div><div><br /></div><div>In the past I have used ratios of 1 part Borax to 6 parts sugar. While effective, I switched to 1 part Borax to 4 parts sugar. That is also effective. Many recipes state a ratio of 1:1 is effective. I recommend starting with 1:4 ratio as it is quickly eaten by ants. </div><div><br /></div><div>While this mixture can be put on a piece of foil or in a plastic lidded container with holes, I prefer using a jar with a metal lid. I punch holes in the lid so they are sharp on the outside. This is the best way to use a baited ant trap in the garden if you have pets and animals around. Sodium borate has a low toxicity to humans and animals but we don't want animals eating a whole batch. The sharp holes keep pet tongues off the lid. </div><div><br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hqfP8Z87Jgpir9ezSU99mz7kgz72gSD_zDDV4T1popYVP4ABPQB4aPnK1tbqvIOjgUjUvmrjk_MjsGBK8prd8ACKytPIigQrEPmjxnEKognhoLc6Dk3f92KiJT0S0i8EZLbYAEF82t0Gmczuzq2nK7ynDHndKGjSb1PAgi_I6rzLs2ogx42vnMkD0HE/s5184/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Pet%20Safe%20Jar%20and%20Lid.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4hqfP8Z87Jgpir9ezSU99mz7kgz72gSD_zDDV4T1popYVP4ABPQB4aPnK1tbqvIOjgUjUvmrjk_MjsGBK8prd8ACKytPIigQrEPmjxnEKognhoLc6Dk3f92KiJT0S0i8EZLbYAEF82t0Gmczuzq2nK7ynDHndKGjSb1PAgi_I6rzLs2ogx42vnMkD0HE/w320-h180/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Pet%20Safe%20Jar%20and%20Lid.JPG" title="DIY ant bait container" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pet Friendly Borax Ant Bait Container</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><b>Shopping List:</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Metal lidded jars (or repurpose old condiment jars)</div><div>Borax (from laundry section of the grocery store)</div><div>Sugar (granular)</div><div>Gelatin Packs (if needed for protein eating ants)</div><div>Jello (if you cant find gelatin, Jello substitutes)</div><div><br /></div><div><div>All the ingredients can be mixed right in the jar. The consistency of the mix can be pretty much a liquid to something with mash potato consistency. I like the mix somewhere in between. Add more or less water to address the thickness.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Mix and Recipe:</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>The ratio is 1 tablespoon Borax: 4 tablespoons of sugar.</div><div>If you are concerned there isn't enough sodium borate, use 1 tablespoon Borax: 3 tablespoons Sugar</div><div><br /></div><div><b>First mix...</b></div><div><br /></div><div>1 tablespoon of Borax or Sodium borate</div></div><div>1 tablespoon of water</div><div><br /></div><div>Add this to the jar and mix until it is dissolved. This will help distribute the sodium borate though the sugar bait.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Second add...</b></div><div><br /></div><div>2 tablespoons of sugar to the jar and stir for about 30 seconds.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Third add...</b></div><div><br /></div><div>2 more tablespoons of sugar to the jar and mix briefly</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn9nnddMncJ207uz6gsqVSetvF3Z3USE-2kVrm9iRK8L4hC7ZNOTV8GFePQvbQzB0GvofrDzOh_03fZaM6eJBiTscb_BNRRimueLupY6yM6XQ3ttYSlhL10i3YrGfckiyI-QVCq8M72bdjXjO4FvTox4LbOwYw7fjhCSJvjzftImX3XrbBdBxhtFeHd18/s5184/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Bait%20Made%20in%20Jar.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn9nnddMncJ207uz6gsqVSetvF3Z3USE-2kVrm9iRK8L4hC7ZNOTV8GFePQvbQzB0GvofrDzOh_03fZaM6eJBiTscb_BNRRimueLupY6yM6XQ3ttYSlhL10i3YrGfckiyI-QVCq8M72bdjXjO4FvTox4LbOwYw7fjhCSJvjzftImX3XrbBdBxhtFeHd18/w320-h180/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Bait%20Made%20in%20Jar.JPG" title="DIY ant bait" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Set the DIY Ant Bait on Its Side in the Garden</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Place the jar on its side in the garden. This design also keep water from filling the jar when it rains. Most ants eat sugar and this is all you have to do to make the bait. If for some reason the ants don't eat the bait, over several days, add 1 or 2 more tablespoons of sugar. If it is not touched over 5-7 days and the ants are still around, they may be protein eating ants. If that is true, add this step. </div><div><br /></div></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Fourth add...</b></div><div><br /></div><div>1 small packet of gelatin (or 1 tablespoon) and mix it through the sugar and sodium borate. You can use 1 tablespoon of Jello as a substitute.</div><div><br /></div><div>I recommend only adding gelatin if you find the sugar bait is not eaten. The results for the DIY Borax or Sodium Borate Ant Killer is very effective and people have notice the ants are gone within 24 hours, in some cases. The amount of bait, from this recipe, should last quite a while and the jar can be move from problem area to problem area. </div><div><br /></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0 0 0 40px; padding: 0px;"><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GheWlItTgg0" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div></blockquote><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQaSaCtgHWfZKlrEP5IvXLOv6KIaOyCGdYWOzN3-8in3IMFoUn-U2ttS2zIehm8Y--GqgyqL3i6Z9ijb7UQocayJF1VVDJQNY5HAcArAmwU2s4Q00_Dq8ky8HYbfIMGpXBT1JguFGZXPYvqDD-QyJtegRjzvlpP6JZN0MyXxEyFUyHxxs_8jk61kqyXs/s5184/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Done%20Horizontal%20Borax%20Box.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5184" data-original-width="2912" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMQaSaCtgHWfZKlrEP5IvXLOv6KIaOyCGdYWOzN3-8in3IMFoUn-U2ttS2zIehm8Y--GqgyqL3i6Z9ijb7UQocayJF1VVDJQNY5HAcArAmwU2s4Q00_Dq8ky8HYbfIMGpXBT1JguFGZXPYvqDD-QyJtegRjzvlpP6JZN0MyXxEyFUyHxxs_8jk61kqyXs/w225-h400/Ant%20Bait%20DIY%20Done%20Horizontal%20Borax%20Box.JPG" width="225" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DIY Ant Bait</td></tr></tbody></table>"Good Luck in Your Gardens"<div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)<br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-53079763104280721902023-07-31T10:48:00.003-04:002023-07-31T13:02:14.707-04:00My #1 August Garden Chore is Maintaining and Buildings Compost Piles: Just Start a Basic Layered Compost Pile for Fall & Spring CompostThe number one barrier to getting started composting, once you have space, is over thinking how to do it and simply not getting started. We often think that it has to be an overly thought out technical process and it also hard for us to think of the immediate benefit being one or two year down the line. So we again, put it off for another year. Nature has been composting organic matter for billions of years. Sure we can do things to speed it up, but we can't speed it up until we get a basic pile started and actually begin composting. I encourage you to start with a basic pile. <div><br /><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dhJ1_MWzuPlajywRPGp-sq9U8R2qU053OTYYGFssLLA4c0q7RZy4zeAPVqqeZifzqlM_7ObXBteJ_EIsgPF6HrcvB2m4chxfar7PcMtSnNiZQog8ax7svN6ferXey2n99Q2AhddZQHTj-otLQnDmFNOM4oyhkuC3KbPwuymQuW8VQRdnQ5WAmsl-jYA/s5184/Compost%20Pile%20Tarped%20and%20Wagon%20of%20Compost.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3dhJ1_MWzuPlajywRPGp-sq9U8R2qU053OTYYGFssLLA4c0q7RZy4zeAPVqqeZifzqlM_7ObXBteJ_EIsgPF6HrcvB2m4chxfar7PcMtSnNiZQog8ax7svN6ferXey2n99Q2AhddZQHTj-otLQnDmFNOM4oyhkuC3KbPwuymQuW8VQRdnQ5WAmsl-jYA/w400-h225/Compost%20Pile%20Tarped%20and%20Wagon%20of%20Compost.JPG" title="Compost Piles" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Basic Compost Pile - Just Get Started</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>The composting of mixed organic matter, tossed in a bin or pile, can take several years to fully breakdown. This method is known as cold composting. Hot composting is mixing ratios of greens/nitrogen and browns/carbon so that the pile heats up to over 120 F. and this accelerates the decomposition process, creating viable compost in as little as 60 days. The latter takes weekly tending and care to maintain the heating of the pile. </div><div><br /></div><div>Cold composting is a long wait, hot composting requires more time. There is a middle grown that is not much more than layering your carbons such as old dried organic garden debris, hay, or even shredded cardboard with fresh cut untreated grass. No special exact measurements are needed. Just rotate layers, soak with a hose, and cover with a tarp. Let Nature do the work.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=shirt" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="469" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimlGBfAPuTzvi2PJtw3t5tnjLqlbui0aiodO_YdEH2T4wE_92zAkGwE2DDTT8cvVs6ZueoKJGZGEe8KmQc-A2O5wVcCmPE_5q7AFQN1T-gQ7Lx36dJ4sri1W63cURJHVCvADCdAajLdGaIo2G3idE8cTvPAV77p1Pmy12ejZge5bvkRxS0JCJl42TmR2Q/s320/Shirt-LimitedEdition_600x600.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=shirt" target="_blank">At My Shop: Limited Edition Shirts </a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>I compost in many ways and have been using this method for that last 5 years. I use it to finish off the composting process of older dry materials. Under the blue tarp is a new pile and the wagon and wheelbarrow are filled with compost from the remains of the previous pile. It works. You just have to get started.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKdxOLPrn1grLSKfUwEQxxdglZ7qpA4SgUgovTOrsE4R2BSEPXRWIGyP4KKNOgTSRQH1bE5oJxVZSN3oHOnHnBmbPCEAsYWWhpmf6igY7JgLRkrTH5jwdgaSEpC9wiwpwV67Sns6d9VSLH8uM0Aq6opGKkmtye_De-zN6cWszNzJ52kfKbYSYXx70wf0/s5184/Compost%20Pile%20and%20Shovel%20Browns.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNKdxOLPrn1grLSKfUwEQxxdglZ7qpA4SgUgovTOrsE4R2BSEPXRWIGyP4KKNOgTSRQH1bE5oJxVZSN3oHOnHnBmbPCEAsYWWhpmf6igY7JgLRkrTH5jwdgaSEpC9wiwpwV67Sns6d9VSLH8uM0Aq6opGKkmtye_De-zN6cWszNzJ52kfKbYSYXx70wf0/s320/Compost%20Pile%20and%20Shovel%20Browns.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Layer of Brown/Carbon or Dried Material</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>I am just putting down dried organic matter from other bins. You could use hay or even shredded cardboard. If you let a compost pile dry out, the material breakdown slows down greatly. Microbes need moisture to decay the material. The above is a layer of browns, 1/2 inch to 3 inches or so in different places across the pile. Just a layer and let it fall where it falls. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWmqQbQiCqlU0mxkpfrfmhGdITSJKDum_deuhrfuyq-in_M4dkyAKCOR5yHLxKGFAMvCP7-yjr43S_CMJHHZx3hnxRb5-qmf6NRdlf3w4DL6HqHAQd2ldzC54oT6rLS4kYHQEH3_Hf4LDmBdeOYPqn3rcYCGRm1rEqZcrQh9W06lI8Sh8XVHG-6R85FPk/s5184/Compost%20Pile%20and%20Shovel%20Greens.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWmqQbQiCqlU0mxkpfrfmhGdITSJKDum_deuhrfuyq-in_M4dkyAKCOR5yHLxKGFAMvCP7-yjr43S_CMJHHZx3hnxRb5-qmf6NRdlf3w4DL6HqHAQd2ldzC54oT6rLS4kYHQEH3_Hf4LDmBdeOYPqn3rcYCGRm1rEqZcrQh9W06lI8Sh8XVHG-6R85FPk/s320/Compost%20Pile%20and%20Shovel%20Greens.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Layer of Green/Nitrogen of Fresh Material</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Next is a layer of freshly cut untreated grass. Again, just layered across the previous layer of brown material. Continue this until the pile gets about 3-4 feet tall. Just keep the layers going and build the pile. The pile is being built with lots of 'fluffiness' meaning good air/oxygen flows through the material. Oxygen helps accelerate good microbes reproduction and digestion of the organic matter. I do not turn this pile and typically build it by August 1st. I use it 90-120 days later to put my garden beds to sleep in the late fall and I use it again to wake them up in the spring. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFY5OzcSILUm2sydHXyZncqd0tpKxGAeZVtJhKyJlQwX5TBxT-BV5566mJApKNfzGN0h9krZEuR4AntUwoSw37t63k0EcOzY9kjtm27FIeoZEcnGbqHkMl7WFROPmoFdiKsANZD6OqxgcfL6IcEqdgFOS4gy4tLlfcQKDjkXAIAm3T0ejIe3ruLXgJOu4/s5184/Compost%20Pile%20and%20Shove%20Browns%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFY5OzcSILUm2sydHXyZncqd0tpKxGAeZVtJhKyJlQwX5TBxT-BV5566mJApKNfzGN0h9krZEuR4AntUwoSw37t63k0EcOzY9kjtm27FIeoZEcnGbqHkMl7WFROPmoFdiKsANZD6OqxgcfL6IcEqdgFOS4gy4tLlfcQKDjkXAIAm3T0ejIe3ruLXgJOu4/w400-h225/Compost%20Pile%20and%20Shove%20Browns%202.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Completed Height of a Layered Compost Pile</td></tr></tbody></table><br />I like to finish it with browns on top of the pile. The grass, because of the high nitrogen content, heats up and helps speed up the breakdown. Not as hot when you are hot composting, but it aids in the speed of the decay of the pile. It doesn't need to be 100% decomposed come fall as you are applying this to the top of the beds. It will continue to decompose on the beds. The final steps are to fully and that means soak the pile and cover it with a tarp. Excess water will drain away. I like using the tarp as it creates a dark space, keep the pile warmer, and I feel speeds up the process. It is possible for mice, moles, and voles to take up living under a tarp. I recommend disturbing and lifting the tarp a couple times a month and letting the sun get in. If it seems dry, you can add water.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU4zphzQt81KC_xc8FbYYcM4kkr8yLRLQBP3xt9a2kI1hxJEdS8v4bsaOhftjz3YiKSG1pX3GP16QEAirSp1RYKXMByWbDrhh4Qb21e65IQfOGBO50iZLeKT6sI97LfcmNqqWOjN6UubJZVC192SiMsM_0YAxxiw1kz0TVLh-XY9PGqlRY6cRdwBGtBHw/s5184/Compost%20Pile%20Soaking%20Spray.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU4zphzQt81KC_xc8FbYYcM4kkr8yLRLQBP3xt9a2kI1hxJEdS8v4bsaOhftjz3YiKSG1pX3GP16QEAirSp1RYKXMByWbDrhh4Qb21e65IQfOGBO50iZLeKT6sI97LfcmNqqWOjN6UubJZVC192SiMsM_0YAxxiw1kz0TVLh-XY9PGqlRY6cRdwBGtBHw/s320/Compost%20Pile%20Soaking%20Spray.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Moisture Maintains Microbes</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Tossing materials into a pen for cold composting or starting a pile like this are two of the easiest ways to get started. If you start with a pen, you'll have plenty of browns next year, for the above layering process. The barrier really is getting started with some sort of compost pile. Follow my blog as I will be doing updates on this pile and showing how I use compost in my fall and spring beds. My video covers the process and shows the pile I just made for 2023.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2h50pD4ZUM4" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div>
<center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">"A Garden Wants to Give. We Just Have to Help it Along"</center><center style="text-align: left;">Cheers!</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center style="text-align: left;">Gary (The Rusted Garden)</center><center style="text-align: left;"><br /></center><center>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-71771616137263000092023-07-28T13:00:00.003-04:002023-07-29T07:39:26.657-04:005 things You Can Do to Beat the Summer Heat in Your Garden: How to Help Tomato Plants Manage High TemperaturesWhen temperature get into the mid to upper 90's and 100's, most plants become stressed by the heat and shut down in some way. They do this to manage the high temperatures. One or two days of elevated temperatures is not typically a point of concern. However, when elevated temperatures are coming to a garden for more than four days at a time, a gardener should address this common problem.<div><br /></div><div>There are several things you can do to help your plants manage and beat the summer heat. I will be focusing on tomatoes but this holds true for most summer crops. These steps can help plants continue to produce and limit the amount of damage that occurs from prolonged high temperatures. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqthmi_g0jGrTXutCMCb9mr8_OVml1ahCgpiMzCVY9_3fvuxnthKweZE3btO7YxoZ2bTEZORY-Q-FFCuf6ibTYjjfpBYUi5auXCdtoPc8sn6wELpGby1tuExxDGzgk97oUpNmz3wdVFBRISCL1tcJEC4NvPN1RkzpGs196K5KnEer04xpT5ZAahEjCOn8/s5184/Tomato%20Leaf%20Die%20Back%20From%20Heat.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqthmi_g0jGrTXutCMCb9mr8_OVml1ahCgpiMzCVY9_3fvuxnthKweZE3btO7YxoZ2bTEZORY-Q-FFCuf6ibTYjjfpBYUi5auXCdtoPc8sn6wELpGby1tuExxDGzgk97oUpNmz3wdVFBRISCL1tcJEC4NvPN1RkzpGs196K5KnEer04xpT5ZAahEjCOn8/w640-h360/Tomato%20Leaf%20Die%20Back%20From%20Heat.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tomato Leaf Damage from High Temperatures</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>Number One:</b></div><div>Increase watering to every other day. When temperatures get into the upper 90's and 100', watering every day maybe needed. For containers, with large plants, water them every day when temperatures are in the 90's or higher. Container plant may even need to be watered twice a day. Lack of water is the number one cause for the yellowing and die off on lower tomato leaves. </div><div><br /></div><div>I water my tomatoes plants for 10=15 seconds at the base for a deep soaking and around the base of the plant to water in the extended surface roots.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKuhzQpBFtAUkt31mcPLaHa9XZo15Y-meWIcuW9FueonCtlqu_aPVc8m7ADr5KfkA3TZqrA47TJz50WgSy9ZtjaFRzwKMMGZRTZeMQdVGLaMmoYO6gclE1DT3_MbFU3VH9QGOOyTLHieEpK5OmC5oz2Thi4BXDyoD0l3EHXkGwIUOAr7DjK2sKVFTAA4/s5184/Water%20Tomato%20Plant%20Base.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUKuhzQpBFtAUkt31mcPLaHa9XZo15Y-meWIcuW9FueonCtlqu_aPVc8m7ADr5KfkA3TZqrA47TJz50WgSy9ZtjaFRzwKMMGZRTZeMQdVGLaMmoYO6gclE1DT3_MbFU3VH9QGOOyTLHieEpK5OmC5oz2Thi4BXDyoD0l3EHXkGwIUOAr7DjK2sKVFTAA4/w400-h225/Water%20Tomato%20Plant%20Base.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soak the Base and Surrounding Surface Roots</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div> </div><div><b>Number Two:</b></div><div>The summer heat often damages leaves. Give the plants a light drink of any water soluble fertilizer. They will appreciated the nitrogen to help with future leaf growth. Use organic fertilizers at full dose but cut chemical fertilizers to 1/2 dose. The latter tends to go over board with nitrogen. Tomato plants often lose lower leaves to yellow and browning. This is a normal response to high temperatures and water issues. You don't have to worry about excess nitrogen with a light feeding.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Number Three:</b></div><div>Mulch the base of your plants with 1-2 inches of grass clipping from untreated lawns or use other types of mulch. This helps keeps the soil temperature cooler and it conserves water. Many plants, like tomatoes, are sensitive to soil temperatures and use that information to manage drought conditions. They will shut down production when soil temperatures remain elevated. Mulching also protects surface roots from drying out and dying off.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG771Vgp38lptM34L5mADpkJJAbChcqmXtTWz-WGwFIsx5RGXAYvgMgM9AR3Ijwr2iZQHRJ3yB6KIkth9gwK3e8nAPB8j1tWMdndEur_M7GCvTox2cgjtjhnaGyUfYCh_j2fu683zKfdmmGhv59tHpo4dqzJZpMNvEh_n2v59EA2BWvUgV5ifsUmEgT14/s5184/Grass%20Mulching%20Under%20Tomato%20Plants.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG771Vgp38lptM34L5mADpkJJAbChcqmXtTWz-WGwFIsx5RGXAYvgMgM9AR3Ijwr2iZQHRJ3yB6KIkth9gwK3e8nAPB8j1tWMdndEur_M7GCvTox2cgjtjhnaGyUfYCh_j2fu683zKfdmmGhv59tHpo4dqzJZpMNvEh_n2v59EA2BWvUgV5ifsUmEgT14/w400-h225/Grass%20Mulching%20Under%20Tomato%20Plants.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mulch to Keep Surface Roots Moist</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><b>Number Four:</b></div><div>Pick all ripe tomatoes and nearly ripe tomatoes and let them finish indoors. Removing fruit from plants helps them manage the heat. Remove cucumber, peppers, tomatoes, beans, and other mature or nearly mature fruit. The plants will not have to worry about supporting maturing fruit and can use resources elsewhere.</div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSupqne7MKt4M7rBfPNNDnHw5TuP0npzErDvkydgBq4Hq79B3fYX8YU5mkGMr0bZ6yxC6KO5y-Bjyb6ST0jvKLMq5X15K1kxe535LVT-VXeTg6ogYyYUvuIo4wY_rKLu5yMRFooQ7apnynJ2COCZdwy71dTt3LaH2cErBVBY1ysr-ZK2hpvDbt_gLYW1A/s5184/Picked%20Tomatoes.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSupqne7MKt4M7rBfPNNDnHw5TuP0npzErDvkydgBq4Hq79B3fYX8YU5mkGMr0bZ6yxC6KO5y-Bjyb6ST0jvKLMq5X15K1kxe535LVT-VXeTg6ogYyYUvuIo4wY_rKLu5yMRFooQ7apnynJ2COCZdwy71dTt3LaH2cErBVBY1ysr-ZK2hpvDbt_gLYW1A/w400-h225/Picked%20Tomatoes.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pick Fruit Often and Early During High Heat</td></tr></tbody></table><b><br /></b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Number Five:</b></div><div>Shade cloth is a summer heat game changer. I recommend 50% shade cloth as a general guide or 70% shade cloth for gardens that regularly see temperatures in the 100's. Shade cloth cools the plant and the soil. It can greatly reduces soil temperature by up to 15 degrees. It works exactly as felt when we step into the shade on a hot day. The plants can survive fine under shade for a couple of weeks. Enough light gets through. It helps the plants stay cooler, continue producing, and it conserves water</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNE1FbcbJ7M2patyP3jNGVW_2LkoNqA_A9K5EZdaAYWnFmEVdB2hyQVLGZUFZQADSCfL46PJGRWHjasICVlDRsSQTlgEzDHmpMX-HHTXHTYKjCsDRXv42u0dIUCfeU_UC2kNPNYXY7rJsvkhV4P_BDYIRwp7E0857IV7C7-d20vx2OdUrXAVClTL0ebAc/s5184/Shade%20Cloth%20Over%20Tomatoes.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNE1FbcbJ7M2patyP3jNGVW_2LkoNqA_A9K5EZdaAYWnFmEVdB2hyQVLGZUFZQADSCfL46PJGRWHjasICVlDRsSQTlgEzDHmpMX-HHTXHTYKjCsDRXv42u0dIUCfeU_UC2kNPNYXY7rJsvkhV4P_BDYIRwp7E0857IV7C7-d20vx2OdUrXAVClTL0ebAc/w640-h360/Shade%20Cloth%20Over%20Tomatoes.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shade Cloth is a Game Changer for Gardens</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lfzP8EjPrU0" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div>
<div><br /></div><div>These are 5 things you can do to greatly reduce damage cause by prolonged high temperatures. Just about every garden plant will benefit from the application of these suggestions.</div><div><br /></div><div>"Good Luck in Your Gardens"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br />
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-50898511707230505882023-07-27T10:36:00.003-04:002023-07-28T09:12:09.021-04:00Cucumber Leaf Damage Identification: How to Identify Pests, & Manage Leaf Hoppers with Peppermint Oil Spray (Recipe)The first rule is to identify what is harming your plant. Once identified, you now know if your plants are dealing with a virus, fungus, or pest problem. Proper identification leads to selecting the right treatment. Treating pest damage with an antifungal baking soda spray, would be ineffective.<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihXVUbY9HyEsu0KlmKbjTY931A1FfTQIa1ZqEJSZU5SO8A_OHj5ok9RPjTpVKtQImD_MAZbpyrxiBWLwrKNVWr3gecomXlZuvjOwVnjMwlP7cVb7HGTXsf8xyptA23VWktMMtyA0DECPsG-6tvSB1Sk9eSjB6BXHM6sEhuudN4gg1ejCl1V2r1nGXcnqw/s5184/Cucumber%20Leaf%20Hopper%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihXVUbY9HyEsu0KlmKbjTY931A1FfTQIa1ZqEJSZU5SO8A_OHj5ok9RPjTpVKtQImD_MAZbpyrxiBWLwrKNVWr3gecomXlZuvjOwVnjMwlP7cVb7HGTXsf8xyptA23VWktMMtyA0DECPsG-6tvSB1Sk9eSjB6BXHM6sEhuudN4gg1ejCl1V2r1nGXcnqw/w400-h225/Cucumber%20Leaf%20Hopper%201.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Advanced Cucumber Leaf Damage from Leaf Hoppers</td></tr></tbody></table><div><div><br /></div><div>Cucumber plants can be affected by all the above depending on the time of year, weather, and location of the garden. The damage to these leaves is caused by leaf hoppers. They feed on the undersides of the leaves. The damaged leaf, first appears dark green, then yellows, browns, and the leaf begins to die off significantly. They eat with the veins of the plant leaf and create very angular feeding shapes. This angular pattern sometimes fools gardeners into believing it is a fugus or virus.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw68uhl4T3sQYjYcFf1urPoA-iycje9rxucjscEe3Z0Od3DEJ71ySAExRUrur0N77BTGF8zoTwC7jnAHdgQXOkME6oNrsdxyTmB55ntCtOTgH7wJCcP1XPepevPSoFc2O-KpaUszVWMPHPSUJWzq-PynHkCqV2PNyvmWRhSLpvqWeiCqrwGd7ViuULAE/s5184/Cucumber%20Leaf%20Hopper%205.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMw68uhl4T3sQYjYcFf1urPoA-iycje9rxucjscEe3Z0Od3DEJ71ySAExRUrur0N77BTGF8zoTwC7jnAHdgQXOkME6oNrsdxyTmB55ntCtOTgH7wJCcP1XPepevPSoFc2O-KpaUszVWMPHPSUJWzq-PynHkCqV2PNyvmWRhSLpvqWeiCqrwGd7ViuULAE/s320/Cucumber%20Leaf%20Hopper%205.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaf Hoppers Chew Leaf Undersides</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdwIGlldB8WSL2ps3jNo9FGbdLgfLKEieqFkQlTKLJns55D4odrc2TDo-UUbdywYZD6xkK5qlsPccfwhC0-uUysUv6qrXdoMM2PjZeJmEtwvE7cqaJYfx4luBLnHEJ_kGTfW-yB8HM9cC_dsPlxay8wuz-MJcGj9Pmv-kZlfS0FvmyGQciAusOh14Apo/s5184/Cucumber%20Leaf%20Hopper%204.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOdwIGlldB8WSL2ps3jNo9FGbdLgfLKEieqFkQlTKLJns55D4odrc2TDo-UUbdywYZD6xkK5qlsPccfwhC0-uUysUv6qrXdoMM2PjZeJmEtwvE7cqaJYfx4luBLnHEJ_kGTfW-yB8HM9cC_dsPlxay8wuz-MJcGj9Pmv-kZlfS0FvmyGQciAusOh14Apo/s320/Cucumber%20Leaf%20Hopper%204.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Damage Progress Changes Color</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>I always recommended taking notes so you know when problems show up in the garden. They most likely will return the same time every year. Leaf hoppers tend to select taller more mature cucumbers plants but will attack what is available to them. I started my spray routine late this year, as I was away on vacation for 1 week. I prefer using peppermint oil as my main treatment for smaller soft bodied insects. You can spray this mix every 2-3 days for an outbreak over 3 or 4 cycles. It irritates, repels, and kills.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>Peppermint Oil Insect Irritant Spray</b></div><div><br /></div><div>1-2 tablespoons of pepper mint oil per gallon of water (I recommend 2)</div><div>1-3 teaspoons of dish or detergent soap (soaps vary and too much can damage leaves)</div><div><br /></div><div>I recommend using Castille type soap as it is pure soap and mild. When using Castille pure soaps, I use 1-2 tablespoons per gallon. </div><div><br /></div><div>Oil will float on water and you need soap to disperse the oil through the mix. Soap will also kill soft bodied insects. </div><div><br /></div><div>Spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves, shaking regularly to keep the oil mixed in the water.</div><div><br /></div><div>You can also use rosemary oil or a combination of both. You can find these at my seed and garden shop. If you don't purchase them from me, make sure to purchase pure oil and not an extract. The oil is potent and that is what you want to manage insects.</div><div><br /></div> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Peppermint+oil" target="_blank"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghcnDfs9SyVrNvSLaDbj__ldHZoIRa7-MzgrvTe1jW8ZSC2x7DPPr_Dbz4fwsmdMStGvveo2eJjw5euFCyAzYvA0mf96ZZ4ByYjAgtvpnutsD26vscP1NZxO_YdQ-1ju9OE_ln12X9xLbYoHD6EuKjZiDFKx4Rj90xnnlbPXRwX9k_VI9dI3pvzmneQ-c/w400-h400/Peppermint%20oil.webp" width="400" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.therustedgarden.com/search?type=product&q=Peppermint+oil" target="_blank">At My Shop: Peppermint, Rosemary and Neem Oil</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>To maintain healthy plants, spraying every 7-10 days is effective. Even though this spray mix is relatively mild, always test spray new sprays in your garden and wait 24-48 hours to see if they cause leaf damage.</div><div><br /></div><div>"Good Luck in Your Gardens"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br /></div><div>Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div>
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</div>The Rusted Gardenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10201342240484835129noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1848104831213570119.post-47148037158428248572023-07-25T10:15:00.008-04:002023-07-25T10:45:32.739-04:00How to Make Mason Jar Herb & Garlic Olive Oil Tomatoes: Recipe & GuidelinesOne of the best ways to use cherry tomatoes grown in your garden, is to make herb and garlic olive oil tomatoes. They have a long refrigerated shelf life. I have kept some of them refrigerated for 12 months. They are best enjoyed by taking them out when needed, and letting them come to room temperature for several hours. I leave mine out overnight. Olive oil will thicken when refrigerated and return to its natural state as it warms.<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZPWDbLLBzwO7iiAmSSnXWd8uhs26nEX5Sy6zxYmnXxoNtJcvZBxPBQpnTxaO6v5e1q-Fe0EMbpIHUZ-b3JoPRPcXSzj2h-CQpMitJl9aysRi7_rJXh3d091pBmxamhxJvGn9oMpzlCQpin2FSYxOJCCt-5uKKc82rXKmS6fhA_57IhB8PkgnSgkGbrg/s5184/Herb%20Oil%20Tomatoes%20Thumb%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZPWDbLLBzwO7iiAmSSnXWd8uhs26nEX5Sy6zxYmnXxoNtJcvZBxPBQpnTxaO6v5e1q-Fe0EMbpIHUZ-b3JoPRPcXSzj2h-CQpMitJl9aysRi7_rJXh3d091pBmxamhxJvGn9oMpzlCQpin2FSYxOJCCt-5uKKc82rXKmS6fhA_57IhB8PkgnSgkGbrg/w400-h225/Herb%20Oil%20Tomatoes%20Thumb%201.JPG" title="Herb and Garlic Garden Tomatoes" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Herb & Garlic Olive Oil Tomato Ingredients</td></tr></tbody></table><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Ingredients and Such:</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Mason Jars </div><div>Cherry Tomatoes</div><div>Fresh Herbs of Your Choice (I used Oregano & Basil)</div><div>Fresh Garlic</div><div>Olive Oil</div><div>Salt</div><div>Pepper</div><div><br /></div><div>Mason jars come in different shapes and sizes and should be washed and prepped before using. We are not canning, but using the olive oil and refrigerator to store them for many months. You will need as many jars, as you have cherry tomatoes. The oil preserves them and this is not a fermentation.</div><div><br /></div><div>I cut fresh oregano and basil from my garden for this batch of cherry tomatoes but you can certainly add other herbs you enjoy. The herbs go in fresh, at the end, when filling the jars. Garlic and olive oil is one of my favorite flavor combinations. Use more or less garlic to your liking. You could omit it and go heavy on the herbs if it is something you don't enjoy.</div><div><br /></div><div>I like to use one large clove per pint container and a bit less for smaller containers. Garlic is prepared by chopping or pressing the cloves and warming it in one cup of olive oil on the stove. Heat the oil and garlic, on low, for about 15 minutes. You do not want to brown and cook the garlic. You are releasing the garlic flavor and using it when the cherry tomatoes are jarred.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_rH_-S8lY_dQyR7nrM4SttKiPZ2RWKmLkZXdCGBvdX-TRAYS-2fS2CgFY08NcZk5Y-TtQD360Sp0IX9cZa6p5N74nfLSPFOBdZlMiOYLRVRgnCVBm0ZwtVsgyUpGfbZwKccBVZcJ8W6x9sxJ-yofAMvm_AFA_E2qGwwDpTL9dwPOmC-t15aCtSA6tZg/s5184/Herb%20Oil%20Garlic%20and%20Mason%20Jars%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN_rH_-S8lY_dQyR7nrM4SttKiPZ2RWKmLkZXdCGBvdX-TRAYS-2fS2CgFY08NcZk5Y-TtQD360Sp0IX9cZa6p5N74nfLSPFOBdZlMiOYLRVRgnCVBm0ZwtVsgyUpGfbZwKccBVZcJ8W6x9sxJ-yofAMvm_AFA_E2qGwwDpTL9dwPOmC-t15aCtSA6tZg/s320/Herb%20Oil%20Garlic%20and%20Mason%20Jars%202.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One Clove of Garlic Per Mason Jar</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><b>General Prep Steps:</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Mince or press the garlic</div><div>Add 1 tablespoon of salt to the minced garlic and let it sit for 10 minutes to draw out liquid</div><div>Add the minced salted garlic to 1 cup of olive oil and warm on low for 15 minutes</div><div>Half the cherry tomatoes</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWi8pD79vBk0u4FMCH4hDp5CYBB11uydpUd0-JS099QCf-yGd38SySlu-P0pWdgy9oXDXxUQlOBbW8yKFEaERrmLA2bDSTYnggpFxOQwNW6CMqubbxjC5gdYAzzl0iVLfTnwhDK-03LTFqgbfdvmkWeT_t30h2xG2_SJPRfEGEDnbM1x_blrEpVpnbcg4/s5184/Herb%20Oil%20Minced%20Garlic%20Pan%20of%20Oil.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWi8pD79vBk0u4FMCH4hDp5CYBB11uydpUd0-JS099QCf-yGd38SySlu-P0pWdgy9oXDXxUQlOBbW8yKFEaERrmLA2bDSTYnggpFxOQwNW6CMqubbxjC5gdYAzzl0iVLfTnwhDK-03LTFqgbfdvmkWeT_t30h2xG2_SJPRfEGEDnbM1x_blrEpVpnbcg4/w400-h225/Herb%20Oil%20Minced%20Garlic%20Pan%20of%20Oil.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Minced and Warmed in 1 Cup of Olive Oil</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Additional salt is added to the mason jars, when filling, but salting takes some practice to match your taste preferences. Remember you can always add more salt when opening and using them, but you can't really remove it. I add 1 or 2 teaspoons to each jar based on size. Use more or less salt, as you wish.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7C9CmDXqfTFYueEOltr2hPtLL8ux9aaINQA5xNWcyMUDzPuyijNkddxD_atLPpS0YMow6513q4a9iJEsCEvrQiWZ4JtbLW--JI5aJT-mecbY-N1i_5fTLclDWct3PsNtoM3W7iceaNbTC8YEChLthI_wUghkPQUBvzK7z2wmI0xmUiGsK76vI2DuyDU/s5184/Herb%20Oil%20Cherry%20Tomato%20Knife%20and%20Slice%202.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT7C9CmDXqfTFYueEOltr2hPtLL8ux9aaINQA5xNWcyMUDzPuyijNkddxD_atLPpS0YMow6513q4a9iJEsCEvrQiWZ4JtbLW--JI5aJT-mecbY-N1i_5fTLclDWct3PsNtoM3W7iceaNbTC8YEChLthI_wUghkPQUBvzK7z2wmI0xmUiGsK76vI2DuyDU/w320-h180/Herb%20Oil%20Cherry%20Tomato%20Knife%20and%20Slice%202.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry Tomatoes Prepped for Jarring</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div>The deliciousness success of this recipe is allowing the salt, herbs, garlic, and olive oil to enter the tomatoes and fill them with flavor. The tomatoes should be halved or have a hole poked in them. I like having different shapes and colors in the jar. </div><br />The next step is pretty straight forward. Put in the herb bunches and hold them in place to the side of the jar and fill loosely with tomatoes to just below the top. Do not press them in tightly. Gently shake the jar so the tomatoes settle and there is enough space left on top for adding the warmed garlic and extra salt. <div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM0Zsxb8iEbag6ihF7txVbtilWepc02d2_rrpoFpQEEL87HT3vG2rmL4bSqg1yz5QAndKk0y7TaDxd2-h1BvPrbmJg0hNYxy_eldFEBZcJFzFA-fqH4exj1aL9fzIs5WdvPmJjkSIb55vJecWRvDdKivMIfxUq5b658jYJH3zKxgtCYiUdzClvnRKWaNk/s5184/Herb%20Oil%20Fill%20Jar%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM0Zsxb8iEbag6ihF7txVbtilWepc02d2_rrpoFpQEEL87HT3vG2rmL4bSqg1yz5QAndKk0y7TaDxd2-h1BvPrbmJg0hNYxy_eldFEBZcJFzFA-fqH4exj1aL9fzIs5WdvPmJjkSIb55vJecWRvDdKivMIfxUq5b658jYJH3zKxgtCYiUdzClvnRKWaNk/w400-h225/Herb%20Oil%20Fill%20Jar%201.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top With Olive Oil</td></tr></tbody></table><div><div><br /></div><div>Once filled, add 1 or 2 tablespoons of the minced warmed garlic. I like to also add a couple additional tablespoons of just the warm olive oil to each jar. I love garlic. I also slice some garlic cloves, thinly, and put them on top. Add 1-2 teaspoons of salt to the to top of the jar, and pepper to your liking. Fill the jar slowly with additional olive oil from the bottle, not the warmed olive oil. The olive oil should fully cover the ingredients and sit just below the top of the jar. Lid and let sit. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKPvcZFukrthG_4NoSDz17WiIMkqKULQAuH-ArDK70gxtZFITkW6p0gsHfBsiFaePwUnopqyXhamjT6F9c_KpkWVyrcXB-d3KjbrdsfrZi8smQ3fvZnVYmPwz5Q-sOP9uMvBPQXzgJZSx7U5hOMUNGnZLYbKwNarM53iYZKbzAWDPPsmDIVLFXeh7ZFA/s5184/Herb%20Oil%20Tomatoes%20Done%201.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2912" data-original-width="5184" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKPvcZFukrthG_4NoSDz17WiIMkqKULQAuH-ArDK70gxtZFITkW6p0gsHfBsiFaePwUnopqyXhamjT6F9c_KpkWVyrcXB-d3KjbrdsfrZi8smQ3fvZnVYmPwz5Q-sOP9uMvBPQXzgJZSx7U5hOMUNGnZLYbKwNarM53iYZKbzAWDPPsmDIVLFXeh7ZFA/w640-h360/Herb%20Oil%20Tomatoes%20Done%201.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jarred Herb & Garlic Olive Oil Tomatoes</td></tr></tbody></table></div><div><br /></div><div>I leave the herb and garlic cherry tomatoes on the counter for 1 or 2 days and turn and shake them when I walk by them. This period of time, allows the ingredients to mix and the olive oil to move into the tomatoes. After a day or so, open the lid and top the jars off with additional olive oil and refrigerate. Olive oil will thicken when refrigerated so don't be alarmed. I like to wait 2 weeks before eating them to allow time for the flavors to mix. If you need more information here is my quick video.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;"><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZVT53NTbgfM" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>"Enjoy Your Garden and Enjoying Sharing"</div><div>Cheers!</div><div><br />Gary (The Rusted Garden)</div><div><br /><br />
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