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Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Planting Spinach in Finger Holes: Raised Bed Gardening

Spinach is a mainstay of every garden. The easy way to plant it, is by poking your finger into the ground and making a hole. It is simple, fast, and very efficient. This planting design allows you to pick baby spinach, leaves, and allows remaining plants to grow to full maturity. Raised beds are a great way to get things growing.


Planting Spinach in Finger Holes: Raised Bed Gardening
(Imported from my old WordPress blog)

I plant my spinach quickly and easily by using finger holes to about 1/2 to 1 inch deep. I plant 2 seeds per hole. I make the holes 2 to 3 inches apart in all directions. I use raised beds so I tend to plant things closer together. Raised beds are prepared to have deep loose soil. This allows the roots of vegetables to grow downward and compete less. The bottom line… you can plant more in the raised beds.
The other thing I do is eat my plants thus crowding is not a problem. I never really wait for full maturity on spinach and other greens. They just never seem to reach full size. If both seeds germinate, I let them grow a bit and harvest one for baby spinach. So cram them together if you have a nice loose raised garden. If they get too cramped… pick them and eat them.

Planting Spinach & Finger Pattern

The holes are 2 to 3 inches apart. The soil of this raised bed was amended prior to planting with peat moss and composted humus and manure. The garden has been turned, fluffed, and amended. I very easily poked finger holes to create the pattern shown below. The holes should be 1/2 to 1 inch deep. Simply put 2 seeds per hole. The holes were covered with composted manure and watered in. That is it… simple, fast, efficient.


Harvesting Spinach

The best way to harvest it is by removing on full plant per hole if 2 come up. Let them grow a bit and harvest one whole plant including the roots. Don’t let them get to big. Baby size or like 3 inch leaves.
The remaining plants (1 per hole) should be left to grow to maturity. If you are like me, you like harvesting. Harvest every other plant and you can see by the picture you will end up with plants 4-6 inches apart. These plants can be left to grow to full maturity. It should be every other plant in both directions.



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Growing All Types of Basil Everywhere: All Season Long!

Love it or hate it, basil is an easily recognized herb in its green leafy pungent form. I happen to love basil. Did you know it comes in dozens of colors, scents, sizes and taste? It also comes in a bush or shrub variety although these types aren’t typically used for culinary preparations. Basil can be grown year round between your outdoor garden and your kitchen windowsill.


Growing Basil Everywhere: A Year Round Herb

(Imported from my old WordPress Blog)


A Brief History of Basil:

It is believed basil comes from the Greek word basileus. It means “king”. Or it may come from the Latin word basilicus which means “dragon”. In either case the culinary world crowns basil “the king of all herbs”.

Basil is native to many tropical areas.. It has been cultivated for over 5000 years. Over time, it has made its way to every corner of the world and into the households of most cultures. It is grown as an annual in most parts of the world. It needs the warmth of the sun, grows quickly and requires little maintenance beyond picking and using it. There are over 40 known varieties of basil of which Ocimum basilicum or Sweet Basil is the most commonly known and grown. Ocimum is from a Greek verb that means “to be fragrant.” The foliage is easily bruised. Just brushing against the leaves releases its easily identifiable fragrance.

Varieties can grow to a height of 2 1/2 feet and are about as wide. Basil foliage colors range from a pale to deep green, it comes in purples and it can even have variegated leaves with purples and yellows. The leaves vary from fragile and silky, to thicker and crinkly and they maybe dull or shiny. The leaves can be tiny or quite large. Flowers appear in summer on the ends of branches and are either white or lavender. What ever plant you grow, it is always fragrant.
 

Types of Basil

Anise basil
Camphor basil
Cinnamon basil                                           
Cuban basil
Dark opal basil
Genovese basil

Lemon basil
Lettuce leaf basil
Licorice basil
Mammoth basil
Red basil

Purple basil
Purple ruffles basil
Sweet basil
Spicy globe basil
Thai basil

 

 

 

 

Basil varies in color, leaf size and in fragrance and taste. You can find just about any kind of basil between locally available seeds, nursery stocks and specialty catalogs. Basil is very easy to grow. It grows quickly and vigorously be it inside on your windowsill or outside in your garden.


Basil Uses:

Basil is primarily a culinary herb. It is typical used as a fresh herb but can be used for its essential oils. Typically, basil is snipped and chopped and put right into the dish. The leaves can also be used whole in salads. Basil can be dried and used dried on fish, on meats, in pasta dishes and in sauces. I can also be dropped into a bottle of white vinegar to create a basil flavored vinegar for cooking and salads.

The strongest basil flavor is found in the leaves. You can cook the leaves. You can eat them raw. You can crush the leaves for the aroma, minced them for intense flavor or toss them on a plate as a garnish. The flowers are also edible and can also be used as a garnish as well.

Basil mixes well with other herbs. Garlic and basil make a great pesto. Add some lemon juice, oregano or time for a great taste. Butter, basil and lemon goes great on fish, lamb, veal or poultry. Basil, dill and butter do well together. Basil can be used in dozens of sauces. It can be minced up and added to your squashes and zucchini as a great summer vegetable dish.


Where and How to Grow Basil:
 
Basil can be grown in a designated herb garden, as part of your flower garden, as borders plants, on a deck in pots and containers, as plants in your hanging baskets and indoors on the windowsill. Basil will grow anywhere as long as it is warm.

Basil does not need a lot of soil or root growing room. It is fast growing annual plant. That is, it grows quickly and sets seeds. Once it sets seeds, energy production to the leaves is stopped and the plant typically loses its culinary value. Basil will even grow in a cup of water.

Basil can be bought as seeds or as plants. You will want to plant basil every 2 to 3 weeks in the garden from seed. This will supply your household with basil all summer long. I mentioned it grows very quickly and aims to set flowers to seed. Pinch the flowers off as soon as the buds appear. This will keep the leaves growing longer. Eventually the plant leaves will lose flavor but that should be about the time your other basil plants mature.

Basil plants from a nursery are great to tuck into containers and pots or to grow on your window sill. When you plant seeds, just follow the seed packets. Basil grows that easily. Just keep them watered and before you know it you will have basil plants cropping up all over the garden. When you grow plants or seeds in containers, make sure the pots and containers have holes. Although you can grow basil in a clean cup of water, they don’t do well in soggy soil.


Picking and Storing Basil:

Start picking basil when the plant is about a foot tall. Regular picking of the leaves will promote more leaf growth. You can pick selected leaves as it is maturing up to size, just don’t over pick the leaves. Once the plant is 10 -12 inches tall you can not do much harm from heavy cultivation.

Refrigerate and wrap the basil leaves in damp paper towels inside a plastic bag. They can last 3-4 days that way. You can pick a stem and place it in a cup of water and in can last 5-7 days that way. If you are making pestos and sauces, you can freeze basil since it will be used in mince formed. Basil can also be dried and stored till next growing season in a cool dark place.
 

 


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Monday, April 29, 2013

Tomato Planting Basics: Preparing the Planting Hole & Planting

Tomato Planting Basics
Preparing the Tomato Planting Hole & Planting

Tomatoes and vegetables want to grow. You don't need to have perfection when planting vegetables. All you really need is a decent hole that has organic matter, fair dirt and some basic nutrients. When it comes to tomatoes, you also want to bury some of the stem. Water them  in.... and the tomatoes and vegetables will come to your plate!

Tomatoes need warm soil to get going. When you get to mostly 50 degree nights and 60-70 degree days it is time for tomatoes to go into the ground. That doesn't mean you can't get them in early and apply a few tricks to keep them warm. However, if you are just starting off with vegetable gardening, you should just wait for the right temperatures.


Preparing a Planting a Tomato Hole (Generally)

  • Loosen the soil to 12-18 inches
  • Add in organic matter to 1/2 the size of the hole (a shovel full)
  • Add in a handful of lime, eggshells or both
  • Add in a tablespoon or two of fertilizer of your choice
  • Mix everything together in the hole

These steps will get your planting hole set up. When you plant your tomato, bury about 1/3 of the stem and remove any leaves that will be buried. Water in.... and watch in grow. The stem will actually root.

The video provides the basics to planting a tomato. You don't have to follow this exactly. In fact, when I make a new planting video this year, I am sure it  will vary. There is no perfection in planting... just guidelines.






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Friday, April 26, 2013

Planting Tomatoes in 18 Gallon Containers: "Freshening' the Soil & Egg Shells

Growing Tomatoes in 18 Gallon Containers
Amending the Soil and Using Egg Shells to Prevent Blossom End-Rot

The main difference between the 18 gallon containers and the 5 gallon containers is moisture management. I can water the larger containers a lot less and therefore worry less about a complete soil dry out.

It is important to amend your container soil yearly. Tomatoes literally suck the life out of container soil mixes. There is no exact amending recipe but I show you my basic routine in the video. You want to add organic matter, some fertilizer and calcium (egg shells). Adding calcium to your soil helps prevent blossom end-rot from affecting your tomatoes.

The video covers these concepts. Enjoy!





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Tuesday, April 23, 2013

60 Seconds or Sow: Acclimating Indoor Tomatoes Outdoors with Milk Containers

60 Seconds or Sow:
'Hardening Off' Indoor Tomatoes Directly into Your Garden


Acclimating transplants is the process of slowly introducing them to the sun, wind and weather over a weeks period of time. Plants grown inside don't have the 'toughness' to be outside. This process is also called 'hardening off' your transplants. Over a weeks period of time, starting with an hour a day of sun and working the time upwards, plants should be slowly introduced to the elements.

One way to save time and forgo the 1 week period of 'hardening off' your transplants or acclimating them to the environment is to use milk containers with the lids OFF. Don't keep them on, as you might over heat your transplants.

The basic idea is that the milk container blocks a good degree of the sun's intensity. Your plant won't get sun-scald. You can use the containers to cover you plants over a 5-7 day period of time to 'harden' them off while they are directly planted in the garden or a container.






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