FB HEADER

Search The Rusted Garden Journal: Just Enter a Key Word or Phrase

Friday, May 10, 2013

60 Seconds or Sow: Just Identifying Tomato 'Suckers' - Where Do They Grow?

Identifying Tomato 'Suckers' - Where Do They Grow?

This video is just to show you where the tomato 'suckers' grow on the tomato. Identifying them is the first step to deciding how you want to manage them on your tomatoes. They grow in the joint where the leaf branch and main growing stem meet.

'Suckers' if left alone will also turn into main production stems. That is they will grow leaves and flower clusters that will set tomatoes. There are reason to remove or keep tomato suckers and strategies for maintaining 1, 2, 3 or more main stems or production stems on your tomatoes. I will talk more about that as the season progresses.





Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Foliar Tomato Spray: Preventing Tomato Diseases with Baking Soda

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel The Rusted Garden
Over 800 Garden Videos Designed to Quickly Present Information!


Please Support The Rusted Garden by Shopping through my Amazon Affiliate Link

Preventing Tomato Diseases with Baking Soda
(Leaf Spot and Blight Diseases)

I garden in Maryland Zone 7. There are two fungal diseases that attack my tomato plants and they are Leaf Spot and Early Blight  Each garden zone has its own set of issues with plant diseases and each zone varies for when the diseases may arrive.

Leaf Spot comes to my area in the late April and through May when the temperatures get around 70 degrees and the rains come. Prolonged wet days and the right temperature brings Leaf Spot to my garden tomatoes. Three years ago it was really bad in my area and that is when I learned how to best manage it. I have not had issue with it for several years.

Early Blight

Leaf Spot is a fungus that reproduces through spores. The key to effectively managing this disease and other fungal diseases  is to create an 'unhospitable' tomato leaf surface for the spores. By treating the tomato leaves you make it more difficult for the spores to take hold and reproduce. This doesn't always prevent the disease from taking hold on your tomatoes (it might) but it does greatly slow the progression of the disease down. It can even stop the progression.

The best way to stop Leaf Spot is through preventative spraying. That is, start spraying before the disease comes to your garden.  Remember this varies from gardening zone to gardening zone. I start spraying about now as part of my prevention plan.


 How and Why Does Baking Soda Spray Work?

Baking soda spray reduces the acidity level on the tomato leaf or raises the PH level on the leaf. This change in the PH level, reduction of acidity, is NOT what the Leaf Spot spores want to reproduce. They want a normal tomato leaf surface. The baking soda spray, by changing the PH level of the tomato leaf, prevents and/or interrupts spore reproduction.

The baking soda is only effective while it is on the leaf. It really needs to be reapplied after every heavy rain and about every week to be most effective. You can find slightly varying baking soda spray recipes on the internet. Use which ever one you are most comfortable with.

To make a baking soda foliar spray you mix 1-2 tablespoons of baking soda to 1 gallon of water. The concentration varies based on your garden zone, temperature and sun intensity. Always test spray any new foliar spray on a few leaves and wait 24-48 hours to see if any damage occurs.

In my area, from experience, I can use 2 tablespoons of baking soda per gallon up until late June or early July without concern. Last year I used this concentration when the high 90 degree temperatures hit with full sun. The same spray that worked fine for April, May and June... burned many of the plants leaves when used in early July. When the higher temperatures come to my zone, I change to 1 tablespoon of baking soda or use wettable sulfur spray.

Wettable sulfur does the same thing to the fungus spores but does it by raising acidity levels of the leaves or reducing the PH level of the leaves. It is the opposite to baking soda. I also spray in the morning or evening when the heat comes.


Baking Soda Spray Recipe and Directions

  • 1-2 tablespoons of baking soda per gallon of water
  • Remember to test spray your leaves first
  • Be aware of temperature and sun intensity
  • Spray after each heavy rain or at least 1x weekly
  • The spray interrupts spore reproduction

To treat your tomatoes, all you do is quickly soak the top and undersides of the leaves. The video covers this information and demonstrates how to spray your tomatoes.




Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Collecting Kale Flowers for Salads as a Spring Biennial

Collecting Kale Flowers for Salads as a Spring Biennial


Kale Flowers - The Rusted Garden Blog

Kale is a biennial which generally means leaf production the first year and flower and seed production the second year. In Maryland Zone 7, I get a full spring, summer and fall of large kale leaves. It over winters, and in the following spring I get delicious kale flowers and smaller sweeter kale leaves as a spring treat. After it is done flowering, I remove the old kale and put in my new kale transplants for another round.

It isn't quite a 2 year process but more of a 2 growing season process. 2 warm seasons. In the first spring you plant it, you will get large leaves for your harvest. In the beginning of the following spring or second spring you will get flowers. So in practice it is about a 1 year period to get kale flowers.


A Bowl of Kale Flowers - The Rusted Garden Blog

The video shows you the outcome of 'Red Russian' kale. An outstanding kale that produces quite well. The second spring crop is full of flowers and sweet smaller leaves.




The Kale Stumped in the Video - The Rusted Garden Blog



Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

Friday, May 3, 2013

Determinate Tomato Basics: Height, Fruit, Death and Garden Uses

Determinate Tomato Basics: Garden Uses

There are two basic tomato categories and they are determinate tomatoes and indeterminate tomatoes. Determinate tomatoes, in general, grow to a set height, produce all their fruit at once and then die off. They tend to produce fruit sooner than indeterminate tomato varieties. These differences are valuable in the garden.

Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow through the season and produce fruit continuously. They typically grow until frost or disease gets them. They can get quite large and unruly. They need pruning and staking.

Determinate tomatoes are great for short growing seasons or areas that get diseases. Because determinate tomatoes can bring you mature tomatoes in 55-70 days (generally earlier than indeterminates), they can often mature before disease gets them or the cold arrives. They require less staking and really don't need pruning. They are also great for container tomatoes. All qualities that have use in your gardens.

I grow both determinate and indeterminate tomatoes in my garden. There are some things to consider when planting determinates in your garden. Determinate varieties can be 2, 3 or 4 feet tall. They are much more compact than your indeterminate cherry tomatoes that can breach 7 feet and grow everywhere. Therefore, you can plant them closer together and plant them by height. They also die off sooner and can be removed for planting other vegetables.

You want to your tomatoes by height as to not let the larger determinate varieties or larger indeterminates, cast shadows and shade out your other smaller tomato plants or other vegetables. A generally rule of thumb is to plant the smallest height tomato closer to the side of the garden that gets most of the afternoon sun. If you put both arms out... and the sun is closer to your right hand...you plant the smaller plants to the right and the larger ones as you approach your left hand.

This video video introduce 4 varieties of  determinate tomatoes; 'early wonder', 'silver fir', 'oregon spring' and 'marglobe'. The indeterminate varieties are 'abraham lincoln' and 'aunt ruby's german green'. I basically discuss the ideas in this blog entry.





Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

Garden Update May 2nd: My Indoor Plants are Now Outdoor Tlransplants

All the tomatoes, peppers, herbs, greens and flowers that I grew inside are now mature transplants and ready to go into my garden or be sold at my tomato and vegetable yard sale.

This is just a quick tour of their progress. They  will be sold, donated or put in the ground this weekend. Enjoy and good luck with your gardens!






Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest