What Growing On at The Rusted Garden: Potatoes

I planted a lot of potatoes last year and I got them in the ground way too late. I left a lot in the containers I planted to see what would happen over a Winter. They are sprouting now! Potatoes can be planted now and the best way to figure it out... see what Nature does in your area.

March Red Potatoes - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

I cleaned up the last year's potato container and dug around a bit and this is what I found. I replanted it of course and will see how the crop progresses.

A Potato Container - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

Planting Beets from Cell Packs: Tangled Roots

Last year I wrote that you could not start beets in cell packs. I believed they needed to be planted in the ground directly because they were a root crop and transplanting them would damage the root or beet. I decided to see for myself and planted 50 beets in the standard tray that holds the cello packs. I just filled it with dirt and made finger holes. They grew. I transplanted them and the beets grew perfectly. So... beets can be grown as transplants.

I just blogged that beet seeds are actually seed pods so when you plant what you think is one beet seed you actually plant a cluster of seeds. If more than one seed germinates from the cluster, you get two or more plants with very tangled seeds. Dividing them is difficult from cell packs. It can be done. Beets are very hardy and if the weather is cool, a damaged plant can survive. A damaged plant is typically a plant with like a single strand of root.

Beet Transplants - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

Beet Root Cluster - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

Even the roots of beets are red. This cluster is several beets. Tear from the bottom until you reach the leave and plant cluster. Make a wish a break the best you can. You are just breaking the clump one time. Don't try and break every plant out. Even if some plant die you will have beets. You can also harvest the leaves for salads.

Splitting Beet Transplants in Two: Gary Pilarchik

Plant them in a hole the is deeper than the roots and back fill. Gently press the soil around the plant and water daily for several days, especially if it is sunny and in the 70's. You can see more than two plants in the picture below.

Transplanting Beets - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

A Row of Transplanted Beets: Gary Pilarchik

Well maybe it is the economy but I have to say Bonnie is now shipping vegetables in four pack cells for $1.79 instead of the standard six pack.  This is 'Bright Lights' Swiss Chard. There is more than 4 plants in the cell pack and I know you can plant several plants in once space. It is a leafy vegetable. Again, with a raised bed you can pack plants together.  Lots of loose soil beneath the plants allows you to do this.

At some point you have to decide if it is worth spending $2.00 for 4 plants. Seeds are cheaper and for instance lettuce is easy to grow. They had a lot of lettuce in four packs but I know I can buy three heads of romaine at Giant for $2.99. So maybe lettuce transplants aren't really worth it. I didn't buy any.

Swiss Chard - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

The first step was preparing the bed area for the chard, 'Red Romaine' lettuce and 'Flame' lettuce.

A Raised Vegetable Bed Over-Grown: Gary Pilarchik

Once cleaned up and turned, I planted the 'Bright Lights' Swiss Chard closer than recommended and on the edge. I know from experience that is grows easily and last all Summer long. I will have easy access to it on the edge. Chard grows fine with 2-3 plants in a clump. 

'Bright Lights" Swiss Chard - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

How to Plant Celery Transplants: I Guess

I thought this was cilantro when I walked by it in the nursery. It is celery. I have never grown celery before and I have never seen it for sale as a transplant. I had to buy it of course. It is part of the addiction of gardening. I did notice there are more than six plants in the cells. Some cells had single plants which make transplanting easy that even a politician could do it. Some had 2 plants which I figure I can divide easily but some also had 3 or more plants somewhat close together. The cell cost $3.99 which isn't a great savings if I only got 6 plants out of it. If this works well... I'll be starting my own celery seeds.

Celery Transplants - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

I pretty much followed the planting instructions with the cell pack. Because I plant in a raised bed, I can put vegetables closer together... so I did.  I carefully divided the cells that had two plants. When you divide plants in cells make sure you tear the roots by the roots and not crush or tear the area where the plant meets the roots.  Watch where you finger pressure is on the plant when you tear. Cells that had more than 2 plants where divided into two clumps. Some celery plants where planted with two or more plants per hole - an experiment remember.

A Single Celery Transplant - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

A Celery Transplant Hole - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

The bed has been turned, amended and prepared. I dug a hole with a depth a bit deeper than the root ball.  I just held the transplant in place carefully by the green and back filled the hole. The rest of the plants, including divisions, were planted the same way. Lots of water helps with torn roots.

A Row of Celery Transplants: Gary Pilarchik

How to Double Dig A Raised Bed: Scatter Planting Carrots

Double digging a raised bed creates a raised bed with about 2 feet of loosened soil. This is a benefit of both double digging and raised beds. Raised beds warm earlier and because you walk around them, the garden bed stays loose and doesn't compact due to foot traffic. The benefit... more vegetables and the ability to plant vegetables closer together. I recommend raised beds that you double dig.

I am showing you how to double dig a row in a raised bed for scatter planting carrots. If you were to double dig the whole bed, you would use a drop cloth to hold the first 12 inches of soil. In the pictures I put that soil on the half of the bed I won't be double digging.

The first step was to turn the whole garden the length of the spade and break the clumps up. The second step starts with removing about 12 inches of soil from the row in which the carrots will be planted.

Step One - A Raised Bed Turned Once and Amended: Gary Pilarchik

Step Two - Double Digging a Raised Bed: Gary Pilarchik

The second step is clearing the row for the carrots. You can see above that I placed the soil to the side and for the most part the soil looks the same in the row and in the pile. It is pretty much equally amended.

The third step is removing another 10 - 12 inches of soil from the row. Notice the soil is changing color and is more clay. It was also compacted and hard. 

Step Two - Remove the 2nd 12 inches in a Raised Bed: Gary Pilarchik

You can amend the soil in the row however you like. I recommend a combination of organic matter, compost, and dirt. I typically use what is available, on sale and meets the quality needs of my garden. Don't spend a lot and don't stress over the decision. I used peat moss, composted manure and cheap topsoil.

Amendments for the Raised Bed Garden: Gary Pilarchik

You don't have to do this with all your beds. Because carrots are long tap roots that like loose fluffy soil and my soil is mostly clay, I softened it up for the carrots. Carrots are tap roots that will appreciate 24 inches of loose soil to grow in. I like to oblige my vegetables.

Step Three - Amended the Raised Bed Row: Gary Pilarchik

I added the whole bags of composted manure and topsoil down the length of the row. I mixed it by hand until it was broken down and loose. It is actually great exercise for your arms.

Step Four - Mixing in the Amendments: Gary Pilarchik

The next step is to replace some of the soil from the side pile and add about 5 shovel fulls of peat moss. I also used a stake to mark out the row.

Step Five: Add Peat Moss: Gary Pilarchik

Mix in the peat moss, from above, a good 8-12 inches and add another 5 shovel fulls of peat moss and some more soil as pictured below. That should bring your row back up to level. The reason you add so much peat moss is for the carrots. It keeps things loose. Mix in the rest of the peat moss evenly.

Step Six - Add More Peat Moss: Gary Pilarchik

Mix the top layer of soil and amendments together nicely. If you had some lime around you could add 4 or 5 handfuls over the peat moss to knock down the natural acidity of peat moss.

Step Seven - Mix the Top of the Double Dug Row Up Nicely: Gary Pilarchik

Your ready to scatter seed the row and grow some carrots. Remember carrots like loose soil. This row is loosened to 18 to 24 inches. It is perfect for carrots. 

Mixed Carrots - The Rusted Garden: Gary Pilarchik

I took the seed in my palm and pinched clumps of seeds in my fingers.  From about 12 inches high I rubbed my fingers together and let the seeds scatter where ever they fell. I did the entire row. It is hard to see but take a look. On most computers you can double click the picture to enlarge it to full screen. Step eight is planting the carrots or vegetables.

Double Click to Enlarge Carrot Seeds: Gary Pilarchik

Once scattered I used the tips of my fingers to mix the seeds into the first 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil. Some might be deeper, some might be left on top but scatter planting is designed for that. You will have to thin your carrots to a minimum of one inch once they come up. The last step is of course watering them in.

Mix in the Carrots with Your Finger Tips: Gary Pilarchik

Water in and Mark the Carrot Row: Gary Pilarchik

Notice my lovely clay clumps. They never go away. Argh!