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Saturday, March 3, 2012

Planting Peas in Containers: First Wave March 2nd

It is cool weather vegetable crop time! Peas can go into the ground now. A better place to put the first wave is in a container. The containers drain a little better during the first few weeks of March and I find that cuts down on seed rotting.

As you saw I cleaned out my containers. In the extra spaces, around the greens, I planted peas. I plant 2 varieties and change each year. I typically do an edible pod for salads and a variety of large peas for straight peas. Don't cook freshed picked peas... just eat them from the pod.


Two Pea Varieties: Gary Pilarchik


Peas can be planted 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep. You should plant 2 seeds per hole. You can let both grow if you know the spot can support them. In this case, the container should be able to maintain moisture for all the vegetables you have growing in it.  This really isn't an issue in March and April. The rains and cool weather keep things moist.

If you want - thin to one plant per hole. In a 5 gallon container, 6 to 8 plants will do fine. You will notice I plant more seeds than I just stated because they don't always sprout. Remember while you wait 10-14 days for them to germinate, you lose time. So plant more than you need. You can always thin or move plants.


Peas in Containers for March 2nd: Gary Pilarchik
Last Years Container Peas: Gary Pilarchik


The 5 gallon bucket is a great container. I also have 2 1/2 gallon buckets. The later had issues when higher temperatures came in late May. The plants would dry out.


10 Peas in a 5 Gallon Bucket: Gary Pilarchik

Pea Supports - Use Your Tomato Cages: Gary Pilarchik

This is the start of my 2012 garden! The greens will be ready soon. The peas will follow. The supports are my tomato cages. The peas will be harvested by the time I need the cages for tomatoes. Notice I also use bamboo poles. The pease will need to climb. They are fragile plants and climbing tends to be the best way to grow them.

Friday, March 2, 2012

Cleaning Out Containers and Leaving the Lettuce, Greens and Onions

It was a mild Winter and my container lettuces, greens and onions survived well. Some plants died but a lot survived. It is March 2nd and time to clean up the containers to let the over-wintered vegetable plants grow.  Greens that grow in the cold taste a lot different than the late Spring and Summer rotations. They are much sweeter! I will be harvesting enough for a salad by the close of March.


Over-Wintered Lettuces, Greens and Onions: Gary Pilarchik
Time to Clean Up the Vegetable Containers: Gary Pilarchik

I have lettuces, arugula, endive, kale and onions in the above containers. They were all planted in the Fall and did really well. If I clean them up, they will grow again and I can harvest them while my garden beds grow.


A Before Vegetable Container: Gary Pilarchik

The key is to remove anything rotted or brown. Also remove anything that looks yellow or that you wouldn't want in your salad. If the roots and stems are strong, the vegetable plants will grow leaves for you to harvest.


A Cleaned Vegetable Container: Gary Pilarchik

More before and after pictures.


Vegetable Container to be Cleaned: Gary Pilarchik
Cleaned and Ready to Grow: Gary Pilarchik

After all the containers were clean up, I move them to the other side of the deck.


Vegetable Container Debris: Gary Pilarchik
Groomed Containers with Pea Supports: Gary Pilarchik

What is an Heirloom Tomato or Vegetable? Hybrid - What's That?

A lot of people want to grow heirloom vegetables. The term is most associated with tomatoes. Heirloom however is a created term used for seed classification and it covers all vegetables. I can tell you first what heirlooms are not. They are not first generation hybrids. But if that hybrid has been around for 50 years reseeding itself, it might be classified as an heirloom. Heirloom has more to do with time then anything else.

An heirloom seed must produce the exact vegetable and plant from which it was collected. Time is what is on the side of an heirloom vegetable. Basically, if you plant heirloom seed A you will get 100% of seed A in the plant and vegetable that grows. You always know you get exactly what you plant.  Heirloom seeds are open pollinated not hand pollinated like hybrid vegetable seeds.  The phrase that is used is 'true to type'. That means the seeds will always produce the exact plant and vegetable no matter how many years you collect that seed.

Time is the question that is not exact for heirloom seeds. The thought is that hybrid tomatoes came into play around 1951. Some people say a tomato seed may be an heirloom if it is pre-1951. Some say it has to be 100 years old. The Brandywine tomatoes date back to 1880. To me, heirloom seeds are seeds that are a part of history and are always true to form when planted. The truth is that people have been cross pollinating all kind of vegetables for 100's of years. Nature has done it for... well since the dawn of time.

A hybrid for a vegetable is two distinct plants cross pollinated to produce a plant with new characteristics or hybrid characteristics. This can be done with purpose and through nature. Corn, peas and squash are three vegetable plants that are easily cross pollinated and open pollinated. That just means that wind and insects can cross pollinate two distinct plants out in the open. If you plant 6 rows of corn with each row of a different corn seed type, the corn seeds you collect will most likely not be 'true to form'. You will have hybrid corn and the seed collected will produce corn that is different the following year. You may or may not be able to tell the difference. That is way they say to plant seed plants with a large space between varieties, if you want to collect 'true seed' to plant the following year.

Hybrids are most commonly seen in your 'tomato hybrids'. They are not heirlooms. They are designed to be small, big, disease resistant, crack resistant and 100 other things. One tomato plant is pollinated by hand with pollen from another tomato plant. The seeds that are produced from that hand pollinated plant are only true one time. The seeds of the seeds will NOT be 'true to type'. Confusing?  The new characteristics can only be maintained by cross pollinating. They can not be maintain be seed collecting year after year - technically.

Quality is often associated with heirloom seeds. I think they taste and look better. They haven't been bred into oblivion. In the tomatoes case, hybrids are often designed to be sturdier and in doing so they often give up taste. Tomatoes for stores might be bred to be round, firm and to sit in a boxcar for weeks without rotting. Heirloom tomatoes are often more fragile and taste great at picking. They can't last in a truck for 7 days.

So what is an heirloom tomato seed? It is a seed that has been around for 100 years or more and it is part of our history. The seeds of seeds of seeds with always produce the exact same seed, the exact same plant and the exact same vegetable. They are more colorful, taste better, look round or wrinkled and most of all  they aren't cross pollinated hybrids in any way shape or form. They come from all over the world and have been producing the same exact tomato since anyone can remember or read in documents. The same would go for all heirlooms seeds but...

The 'but' is interesting in my opinion. If you cross-pollinated peas (think Mendel) 50, 75 or 100 years ago and those plants produced seed that got planted you would get new seed. With time, eventually planting seeds of seeds of seeds over 50 - 100 years will get you seed that is 'true to type'. Time eventually removes the variance of the original hybrid. It may or may not be a great tasting vegetable but it is 'true to type'. So time will create characteristic stability but for the rare event of mutation. Perhaps this seed becomes a future heirloom.

In the end the word heirloom is a word that was created to mean old and 'true to type'. The time frame may vary from 50 to 75 to 100 to 150 years. Heirlooms taste great because no gardener would save seeds of vegetables that belongs in the compost heap. We are smart, wise and grow what both tastes great and is good for us. Heirlooms have that history bred in them and that is what I like about them.

Enjoy!

SPRING IS HERE! What's Happening at the Rusted Vegetable Garden

It is time to plant! I wish it were that easy. The first step is preparing your garden for planting. It isn't fun but it is exercise and the work pays off.

This weekend, I plan to clean out my containers and watch last years greens come to life. I will be planting container peas and greens. My onion sets will go in the ground and I will be cleaning out several 4 x 6 and 4 x 8 raised beds for peas, lettuce, and greens.

I would love to see pictures of what you are doing for Spring. There is  a picture link above but feel free to post them where you wish.

I also plan to use some recycled domed bagel serving trays to grow seedlings. They will sit in the full sun and mature outside. It is an experiment.

All the above will be captured in pictures and put on the blog.

Good Gardening to You!

Your First Garden: A Challenge to You - STEP 4

March is here and hopefully you have been building up to this weekend. It is time to turn the garden! It takes some effort but can be accomplished in under an hour. Once done... you will have a space to plant all year long. Don't delay!

Turn your 4x4 plot over to about a 12 inch depth. You can remove the grass and weeds if you want or make sure they get turned to the bottom of the garden. The lack of light will kill the grass and weeds.

After you turned the garden, open the bags of soil and spread it out over the top of the planting space. You should open your peat moss bail and pour out 1/2 of the bag and spread it evenly over the top of the garden. If you managed to buy some fertilizer and lime, spread that out too. You can use 3 or 4 handfuls of 10-10-10 fertilizer and 6 or 8 handfuls of lime. Spread them out evenly over the top of your garden.

Perhaps you bought some wood to build a raised bed. You would want to create the frame before you add the above soil. Once you empty your garden amendments, mix the newly added soil with the old soil to a depth of about 8 inches. If you removed the grass, you can mix the top level deeper into your soil. Once mixed, rake and smooth it out. You should break up any large clumps with your hand.

Planting is next. Admire your hard work!

Good Luck!