24 Frost Tolerant Vegetables You Can Plant for a Fall Garden and When to Plant Them

Planting a fall vegetable garden begins with knowing the average first frost date in your specific area. Typically, the first frost occurs in late October or early November in most parts of Maryland. The first frost often kills most warm-weather crops. Your cool-weather crops can take a frost and survive. The first frost date signals cooling temperatures in your garden and that is what the cool-weather crops need to thrive and mature without flowering or bolting.

Fall Garden Crops

To plan your fall garden, work backward from the first frost date to determine when to plant each crop. The strategy is to use the late summer warmth for crops that take longer to grow, but time it so maturity occurs when the fall temperatures are truly present. Plants like broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts benefit from 4-6 weeks of growth in warmer temperatures but develop best for harvest in the cool weather. You can use the following planting timeline as a general guide.

Mid to Late July: 

Plant fast-maturing warm-season crops for a late summer/early fall harvest, such as bush beans, cucumbers, and summer squash. Start transplants or direct seed cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower or other cold tolerant crops that take longer to mature. Cool weather crops that need 75-100 days to mature benefit from 4-6 weeks of summer warmth.

Early August: 

Direct seed, beets, carrots, turnips, and other root crops. Select early maturing varieties of cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower for direct seeding. Kale, chard, and collards can be direct seeded.

Mid to Late August: 

Start direct seeding your leafy greens like lettuces and spinach and fast growing root crops like radishes and early maturing turnips. You can plant these every 2 weeks through September. 

Early September: 

Continue to plant hardier crops that can withstand frequent frost and moderate prolonged frosts, Swiss chard, collard greens, radishes, and arugula fall into this category. This is the best time to direct sow mustard greens, Asian greens, and Asian cabbages like Bok Choy.

Mid to Late September: 

Finish up your final round of direct seeding the hardier cool weather crops.

Early October:

There may still be time for another round of arugula, radishes and Asian cool weather crops.

Late October and November:

Plant your hardneck garlic. If you use cold frames or row covers to extend the season, you can continue to plant leafy greens, radishes and other fast maturing cold loving cool weather crops.

Use a journal to keep track of when you start transplants, direct seed, and generally plant you fall garden crops. The information can be used year to year to adjust you planting schedule. I also recommend planting in succession which means plant faster growing crops, every 2 weeks. You can watch to see which ones mature fully (based on planting date) and do the best moving from the heat of the summer into the chill of fall.

At My Shop: Fall Garden Seeds

You could, for example, plant spinach and lettuce every 2 weeks starting August 15th through September 30th. Since the leaves of these crops can actually freeze and thaw, and not take damage, they can really grow until a heavy ground freezes arrive. Planted too soon, they may bolt and flower. The only way to get the planting timing of a fall garden is to experiment, observe, and take notes.  

24 Frost Tolerant Crops for Your Fall Garden & 3 Warm Crops to Plant

Arugula: Plant arugula seeds in September for a fall crop. Arugula is a fast-growing leafy green.

Beets: Plant beet seeds in early August.

Broccoli: Start broccoli indoors/outdoors in late June/Early July to transplant late July/Early August. This will give them enough time to mature before heavy frosts. Direct sow faster maturing varieties mid July through early August.

Brussels Sprouts: Start Brussels sprouts indoors/outdoors in late June/Early July to transplant late July/Early August. This will give them enough time to mature before heavy frosts. Direct sow faster maturing varieties mid July through early August.

Bush Beans: A warm crop for a final fall harvest. Late July through early August if you have first frost appearing late October.

Cabbage: Plant cabbage transplants in late July for a fall crop. Select cabbage varieties that are fast maturing for direct seeding in August. They can also be started as transplants in late June/Early July.

Carrots: Sow carrot seeds in Mid July through August for a fall harvest.

Cauliflower: Start cauliflower transplant indoors/outdoors in late June/Early July to transplant late July/Early August. This will give them enough time to mature before heavy frosts. Direct sow faster maturing varieties mid July through early August.

Chinese (Asian Type)  Cabbage: Direct sow late August through early September.  They will bolt (flower) if it is too warm.

At My Shop: Fabric Pots for a Fall Garden

Collard Greens: Plant collards in late July or August for fall harvest. Collards are cold-tolerant and taste sweeter after a light frost. You can also start them for transplants in July.

Cucumbers: A warm crop for a final fall harvest. Late July through early August if you have first frost appearing late October.

Endive:  Endive can be direct seeded late July through early August for a delicious fall harvest. It is a longer maturing leafy green.

Garlic: Plant garlic cloves in late fall (and even early winter) for harvest the following summer.

Green Onions (Bunching Onions): Sow green onion seeds July through early August for a fall  and winter harvest. They are very cold hardy and overwinter in my Maryland garden.

Kale: Plant kale in late July or August for fall harvest. Kales are very cold-tolerant and taste sweeter after a light frost, like collards. You can start them for transplants in July. They also overwinter in my Maryland garden.

Kohlrabi: Kohlrabi can be sown directly in the garden during mid to late summer.

Leeks: Start leeks indoors in a tray or outdoors on a shady side of your home early July. Transplant them to the garden mid to late August. They are very cold hardy. You can also direct seed them but they can have issues germinating and growing with the summer heat.

Lettuce: Plant lettuce from mid August through early September for a continuous harvest. Choose heat-tolerant varieties for earlier summer plantings. They do need the cool weather to finish maturing or they often bolt.

Mache (Corn Salad): Mache is a cold-hardy green that can be direct sown in late summer through early fall.

Mustard Greens: Sow mustard green seeds directly in the garden in September for a fast-growing cold loving crop. The need the cool weather to prevent early bolting.

Parsnips: Parsnips are slow to mature, so plant them in late July for a fall or winter harvest.

Peas: Plant peas in mid to late August for a fall crop. The leaves can take a frost but flowers and peas can not. It is best to start peas through early and late August to get the timing down for fall harvest of peapods. 

 

Radishes: Radishes are quick to mature. Plant them in mid to late August to see if they mature well. The heat can effect them. Continue to plant them through September every 2 weeks. 

Spinach: Sow spinach seeds in August through early September for a fall and early winter crop of leafy greens.

Swiss Chard: Swiss chard is a cold-tolerant green that can be planted mid summer. It can take heavy frosts and does well in the heat of summer. It can be planted just about any time you wish.

Summer Squash/Zucchini: A warm crop for a final fall harvest. Late July through early August if you have first frost appearing late October.

Turnips: Turnips are easy to grow and can be sown late July through September for a fall and early winter harvest.

Frost on Lettuce Leaves

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Gary (TRG)

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12 Steps to Prevent & Manage Fungal Diseases on Tomato Plant Leaves: Identifying Septoria Leaf Spot and Early Blight

Of course, we love and want our tomato leaves to be green and healthy all the time but the truth is, especially lower tomato leaves, tend to yellow, brown, and get beat up over the growing season. Sometimes, and more often than not, this is normal die off. I wanted to address a pattern on leaves that often signifies Septoria leaf spot or early blight. This pattern is of concern and requires treatment.

When you see spots that are made up of  brown circles with circles or concentric rings, the pattern is most likely caused by the active fungus on the tomato leaf. Follow The Rusted Garden Journal as I will be writing extensively on how to identify problems in the garden. Today's focus is on identifying spots with concentric rings.

Addressing leaf spots first involves identifying the cause of the spots and then implementing appropriate treatment to address the issue. There are various types of leaf spots that can show up on tomato plants, including fungal, bacterial, and viral diseases. Here are some general guideline to address fungal issues and other problems on your tomato plants.

What are these spots on tomato leaves?

Identify the cause: 

Examine the spots on the tomato leaves and try to determine the cause. Fungal leaf spots often have distinct patterns and colors compared to bacterial or viral spots. This step is crucial because different problems require different treatments.

Keep a journal:
Write down the dates leaf problems show up on your garden plants. Make notes on that weeks temperatures, amount of rain, and humidity. This information can be used to create a prevention spraying routine for your garden.

Create and implement a preventative spraying routine:

Problems that show up once in a garden often return around the same time year to year. Creating a preventative spraying routine that starts two weeks before the problems arrive, can prevent the diseases from taking hold on your plants.

At My Shop: Scan & Grow

Prune affected leaves: 

If the leaf spots are localized and not widespread, carefully prune the affected leaves to prevent the disease from spreading more quickly across plant leaves. It is more important to quickly implement a spray treatment to address fungal outbreaks on leaves than it is to remove leaves.

Improve air circulation: 

Ensure proper spacing between tomato plants to allow for adequate air circulation. Good airflow helps reduce humidity levels around the plants, which can inhibit the growth and spread of fungal diseases. It keeps the leaves drier and it lets in sunshine.

Water properly: 

Avoid overhead watering, especially in the evening, as wet foliage can promote the development of fungal diseases. Instead, water at the base of the plants early in the morning to give the leaves a chance to dry during the day. This is best practice but often not the main cause of spreading the diseases.

Mulch: 

Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants. Mulching helps prevent soil-borne pathogens from splashing onto the lower leaves and reduces weed competition.  Weeds can often serve as a host for diseases. Continue to apply mulch over the season, as needed, to maintain a barrier between the soil and lower plant leaves.

Fungicides: 

If you determine that the leaf spots are caused by a fungal disease, consider using a fungicide. Copper-based fungicides (organic), baking soda spray (organic) wettable sulfur spray (organic) or those containing chlorothalonil (not organic) are commonly used for tomato diseases. Always test spray any new spray you use in the garden on a couple of leaves. Wait 24 hours to see if the spray causes damage before spraying your entire plant.

Crop rotation: 

Avoid planting tomatoes or other members of the Solanaceae family (peppers, eggplants) in the same location each year. Crop rotation can help reduce the buildup of soil-borne pathogens. This is more important on larger scale farms verses a typical home garden. General rotation in a home garden doesn't provide adequate distancing from the previous grow area.

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Resistant varieties: 

When selecting tomato varieties, look for those that are resistant to common tomato diseases, including leaf spots. Resistant varieties can significantly reduce the likelihood of disease development. The harder it is for a fungal disease to establish and take hold, the more effective your preventative spraying and management routines will be. 

Sanitation: 

Practice good garden hygiene by removing fallen leaves and plant debris. Clean garden tools after use to prevent the spread of the diseases or pathogens. This is best practice. It reduces the chances of future problems but remember the issues did show up when your garden was brand new. Spores float in the air and find weeds as hosts.

Monitor regularly:

Regularly inspect your tomato plants for any signs of leaf spots or other issues is one key to reducing significant outbreaks and crop loss. Early detection can help you take timely action before the problem becomes severe. Early detection is important as is the use of preventative spraying. 

Septoria Leaf Spot or Early Blight: Concentric Rings

It takes time to understand the patterns that 'will' show up on your tomato leaves year after year. It is common for tomato plants to have lower leaves that turn yellow, get brown patches, or just plain look beat up. We consider this normal die off that often occurs during the high heat periods of summer. The most important clue that there is a fungal issue like Septoria leaf spot or early blight is the concentric brown rings that form the brown spots and a yellow halo around the outer edge of the spots. The halo means the fungi are alive and active. After spraying, the brown spots will remain but the yellow halo will be gone indicating the fungus is no longer present.

"A Garden Wants to Give"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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Identifying Fungal Issues on Tomato Leaves & Using Hydrogen Peroxide as a Treatment

First rule, always test spray any new sprays you use in your garden. Spray a few leaves and wait 24-48 hours for damage. If there are no issues, write down the recipe and spray away. Second rule, it is best to spray in the morning or early evening. Third rule, don't mix other ingredients with hydrogen peroxide. Fourth rule, learn what the patterns on leaves means so you know when or when not to panic, or calmly treat your tomato plants.

Basic 3% Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) can be purchased at many locations. You do not need an organic stamp on it. H202 is used to actually clean the leaf and kill off any active fungal issues (spores) on the leaves. It does not prevent future fungal spores from showing up and taking hold but actually kills what is on there. You can use 4 ounces per gallon for general maintenance and leaf cleaning every 10-14 days to prevent leaf problems. You can use up to 8 ounce per gallon to treat outbreaks on your plant. If you have an out break, I recommend spraying every 3-5 days for 3 cycles to get things under control.  Spray the top and underside of the leaves well, including stems and fruits. It won't harm flowers or beneficial insects.

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1. 4 ounces of H202 in 1 gallon of water for maintenance spraying
2. 6-8 ounces of H202 in 1 gallon of water for managing outbreaks.
3. Start with the lower mix ratios and see how it works.

Basic Tomato Leaf Spraying

It is best to wait 24 hours, after spraying H202, before putting on any new sprays such as an antifungal like baking soda. Hydrogen Peroxide breaks down quickly, cleans the leaf, and is gone. You have to follow up with and antifungal to prevent future fungal issues from returning.  Or if you have lower disease pressure in your garden, you can just do maintenance H202 spraying.  The bottom line is to set up a routine of prevention spraying that works for you and stick to it. Your consistency with your spray and care routine is often more important than the actually sprays you choose.

Concentric Circles Means Tomato Leaf Fungi

It is very hard to identify every issue with tomato leaves as yellowing, die off, and appearance of fungi on weakened leaves is really normal and common. Especially when the high heat of the summer shows up. Watch my video for more details and examples on identifying leaf problems. They biggest sign you have fungal issues is not yellow or uniform brown patches on leaves. It is a pattern of brown circles within circles that is a sign you have a fungal outbreak. Smaller spots covering leaves is often a leaf spot fungal issue, larger spots are often a sign of early blight. The spots often have a yellow halo around them which signals, an active fungal outbreak. The above spray routine works on tomato leaf fungus in general. 

Hydrogen Peroxide, in theory, can be used on any plant in your garden. However, these ratios are what I tested for using them on tomato and pepper plants. Each time you try this spray on new plants, do a test spray. There is nothing sadder, I've been there, than defoliating plants because a spray that doesn't harm plant A damages plant B.

Here is a 2nd video that really goes in-depth on using hydrogen peroxide in your garden. The recipes and frequency may vary as I often tweak things year to year. There are 1000 ways to garden, so use what I teach as principles and adapt them to your garden needs.

"Good Luck in Your Gardens"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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Garden Plants You Can Direct Seed in July and August

Warm season crops can be planted many times throughout the summer months. Many gardeners stop with the first planting. I plant several waves of zucchini or summer squash, for example, in my gardens starting in May. I usually plant the last seeds in the middle of August. The strategy is to plant through the disease and pest cycles that show up yearly in our gardens, damaging or killing the warm loving crops. While I get great production from my May planted zucchini, very often the vine borer gets them. By planting again in early June and July, I out grow the life cycle of the vine bore and the later planted crops thrive.

July Planting of Beans, Cucumbers, and Basil

I do the same with cucumbers but for a different reason. Mature large cucumber plants tend to slow and really get beat up by the July heat here in Maryland. These are usually the plants I planted in May. By sowing cucumbers seeds again in mid June and July, I get thriving new plants that continue to produce well into August. Each garden will vary on how you might space the planting of warm crops over the summer. I recommend using this list below and staggering some of the plants over the warm months. Take notes and adjust the planting times the following year. It's not realistic to think a May planted cucumber or zucchini seed will survive and continue producing into late August or September. If you are able to do that, I am impressed. 

Dated July Planted Cowpeas

There are many seeds that can be direct sown throughout the summer. I am focusing on the more commonly grown and known summer crops.

1. Watermelon
2. Cantaloupe
3. Determinate Tomatoes
4. Lima Beans (Bush & Pole)
5. Green Beans (Bush & Pole)
6. Basil
7. Cucumbers
8. Corn
9. Summer Squash & Zucchini
10. Bunching Onions
11. Cowpeas
12. Pumpkins

At My Shop: Scan & Grow

For July and August direct seeding, you typically want 70-90 days before your first frost. Summer crops germinate faster and grow more quickly for obvious reasons. The days to maturity on seed packets don't take this into account. Cucumbers and zucchini can be producing in as little as 40 days, if not sooner. You can also look for bush type plants that tend to stay compact and mature more quickly, if you have earlier frost dates in your area. 

The keys to successful direct seeding can be found in my video. You want to water your seeds and seedlings just about every day for 7-10 days as the summer sun can be brutal on soil. You can also use a shade cloth to reduce the temperature of your garden beds. I highly recommend planting some of the above seeds not only in May, but several time over the summer months. You will greatly increase your harvests and you will find plants rolling into September taste even sweeter as the chill of Autumn rolls in.

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"A Garden Wants to Give"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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Why Are My Tomato Leaves Curling and Rolling & How Do I Fix It?

There are a lot of things to worry about in your garden. Fortunately curling or rolling tomato leaves is not one you have to worry about. As long as the leaves are green and healthy looking, curling is not a concern. The plant will continue to grow normally and eventually work out the issue. We do not really know why they curl but understand it to be a physiological response to stress. Exactly what that stress is, is not always clear to us but only to the plant. Several tomato plants may be planted and cared for in the same way, in the same garden bed. Very often only one plant may show signs of leaf curling and the others look perfectly normal. 

Tomato Leaf Curling or Rolling

Typically we are told that it is heat related, watering related (too little or too much), or even at times related to fluctuations in day and night temperatures. As gardeners we often want to fix problems and care for our plants. There really isn't much you can do to resolve this problem but there are three you can try and they can help if it is truly related to heat. However, remember the curling and rolling does not harm your plants.

1. Water your tomato plants consistently and evenly during the hotter parts of the summer. The frequency will vary based on the plant size and temperatures. 
2. Mulch your garden beds with 1-2 inches of mulch to help keep moisture in the top 4-6 inches of the soil. 
3. Use shade cloth above your tomato plants to cool the plants and soil surface

While these things my not directly resolve the curling leaves, tomatoes plants do become stressed during the high heat of summer and can shut down in response to the sun. Often, plants drop flowers, fruit, and stop producing as they feel they are in drought conditions. They will just sit tight and wait for the environment to cool. I often use shade cloth in July to keep my tomato producing when temperature are in the upper 90's

Tomato Leaf Curling on Healthy Leaves

Leaf curling is going to happen at times. Look at the curled leaves and assess for any problems. Very often the leaves are green and healthy. If they are yellow or have insect damage, there might be concern. However, when green, just let the plant do its own thing. It will continue to grow, produce, and eventually leaves correct themselves. It is possible also, that a group of lower leaves curl and stay like that, while all the leave above them (and future leaves) show no signs of curling or rolling. We have many chores and worries in or gardens. Curling leaves is one we can let be.

"Good Luck in Your Gardens"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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