My #1 August Garden Chore is Maintaining and Buildings Compost Piles: Just Start a Basic Layered Compost Pile for Fall & Spring Compost

The number one barrier to getting started composting, once you have space, is over thinking how to do it and simply not getting started. We often think that it has to be an overly thought out technical process and it also hard for us to think of the immediate benefit being one or two year down the line. So we again, put it off for another year. Nature has been composting organic matter for billions of years. Sure we can do things to speed it up, but we can't speed it up until we get a basic pile started and actually begin composting. I encourage you to start with a basic pile. 

The Basic Compost Pile - Just Get Started

The composting of mixed organic matter, tossed in a bin or pile, can take several years to fully breakdown. This method is known as cold composting. Hot composting is mixing ratios of greens/nitrogen and browns/carbon so that the pile heats up to over 120 F. and this accelerates the decomposition process, creating viable compost in as little as 60 days. The latter takes weekly tending and care to maintain the heating of the pile. 

Cold composting is a long wait, hot composting requires more time. There is a middle grown that is not much more than layering your carbons such as old dried organic garden debris, hay, or even shredded cardboard with fresh cut untreated grass. No special exact measurements are needed. Just rotate layers, soak with a hose, and cover with a tarp. Let Nature do the work.

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I compost in many ways and have been using this method for that last 5 years. I use it to finish off the composting process of older dry materials. Under the blue tarp is a new pile and the wagon and wheelbarrow are filled with compost from the remains of the previous pile. It works. You just have to get started.

Layer of Brown/Carbon or Dried Material

I am just putting down dried organic matter from other bins. You could use hay or even shredded cardboard. If you let a compost pile dry out, the material breakdown slows down greatly. Microbes need moisture to decay the material. The above is a layer of browns, 1/2 inch to 3 inches or so in different places across the pile. Just a layer and let it fall where it falls. 

Layer of Green/Nitrogen of Fresh Material

Next is a layer of freshly cut untreated grass. Again, just layered across the previous layer of brown material. Continue this until the pile gets about 3-4 feet tall. Just keep the layers going and build the pile. The pile is being built with lots of  'fluffiness' meaning good air/oxygen flows through the material. Oxygen helps accelerate good microbes reproduction and digestion of the organic matter. I do not turn this pile and typically build it by August 1st. I use it 90-120 days later to put my garden beds to sleep in the late fall and I use it again to wake them up in the spring. 

Completed Height of a Layered Compost Pile

I like to finish it with browns on top of the pile. The grass, because of the high nitrogen content, heats up and helps speed up the breakdown. Not as hot when you are hot composting, but it aids in the speed of the decay of the pile. It doesn't need to be 100% decomposed come fall as you are applying this to the top of the beds. It will continue to decompose on the beds. The final steps are to fully and that means soak the pile and cover it with a tarp. Excess water will drain away.  I like using the tarp as it creates a dark space, keep the pile warmer, and I feel speeds up the process. It is possible for mice, moles, and voles to take up living under a tarp. I recommend disturbing and lifting the tarp a couple times a month and letting the sun get in. If it seems dry, you can add water.

Moisture Maintains Microbes

Tossing materials into a pen for cold composting or starting a pile like this are two of the easiest ways to get started. If you start with a pen, you'll have plenty of browns next year, for the above layering process. The barrier really is getting started with some sort of compost pile. Follow my blog as I will be doing updates on this pile and showing how I use compost in my fall and spring beds. My video covers the process and shows the pile I just made for 2023.

"A Garden Wants to Give. We Just Have to Help it Along"Cheers!
Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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5 things You Can Do to Beat the Summer Heat in Your Garden: How to Help Tomato Plants Manage High Temperatures

When temperature get into the mid to upper 90's and 100's, most plants become stressed by the heat and shut down in some way. They do this to manage the high temperatures. One or two days of elevated temperatures is not typically a point of concern. However, when elevated temperatures are coming to a garden for more than four days at a time, a gardener should address this common problem.

There are several things you can do to help your plants manage and beat the summer heat. I will be focusing on tomatoes but this holds true for most summer crops. These steps can help plants continue to produce and limit the amount of damage that occurs from prolonged high temperatures. 

Tomato Leaf Damage from High Temperatures

Number One:

Increase watering to every other day. When temperatures get into the upper 90's and 100', watering every day maybe needed. For containers, with large plants, water them every day when temperatures are in the 90's or higher. Container plant may even need to be watered twice a day. Lack of water is the number one cause for the yellowing and die off on lower tomato leaves. 

I water my tomatoes plants for 10=15 seconds at the base for a deep soaking and around the base of the plant to water in the extended surface roots.

Soak the Base and Surrounding Surface Roots

   

Number Two:

The summer heat often damages leaves. Give the plants a light drink of any water soluble fertilizer. They will appreciated the nitrogen to help with future leaf growth. Use organic fertilizers at full dose but cut chemical fertilizers to 1/2 dose. The latter tends to go over board with nitrogen. Tomato plants often lose lower leaves to yellow and browning. This is a normal response to high temperatures and water issues. You don't have to worry about excess nitrogen with a light feeding.

Number Three:

Mulch the base of your plants with 1-2 inches of grass clipping from untreated lawns or use other types of mulch. This helps keeps the soil temperature cooler and it conserves water. Many plants, like tomatoes, are sensitive to soil temperatures and use that information to manage drought conditions. They will shut down production when soil temperatures remain elevated. Mulching also protects surface roots from drying out and dying off.

Mulch to Keep Surface Roots Moist

Number Four:

Pick all ripe tomatoes and nearly ripe tomatoes and let them finish indoors. Removing fruit from plants helps them manage the heat. Remove cucumber, peppers, tomatoes, beans, and other mature or nearly mature fruit. The plants will not have to worry about supporting maturing fruit and can use resources elsewhere.

Pick Fruit Often and Early During High Heat

Number Five:

Shade cloth is a summer heat game changer. I recommend 50% shade cloth as a general guide or 70% shade cloth for gardens that regularly see temperatures in the 100's.  Shade cloth cools the plant and the soil. It can greatly reduces soil temperature by up to 15 degrees. It works exactly as felt when we step into the shade on a  hot day. The plants can survive fine under shade for a couple of weeks. Enough light gets through. It helps the plants stay cooler, continue producing, and it conserves water

Shade Cloth is a Game Changer for Gardens

These are 5 things you can do to greatly reduce damage cause by prolonged high temperatures. Just about every garden plant will benefit from the application of these suggestions.

"Good Luck in Your Gardens"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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Cucumber Leaf Damage Identification: How to Identify Pests, & Manage Leaf Hoppers with Peppermint Oil Spray (Recipe)

The first rule is to identify what is harming your plant. Once identified, you now know if your plants are dealing with a virus, fungus, or pest problem. Proper identification leads to selecting the right treatment. Treating pest damage with an antifungal baking soda spray, would be ineffective.

Advanced Cucumber Leaf Damage from Leaf Hoppers

Cucumber plants can be affected by all the above depending on the time of year, weather, and location of the garden. The damage to these leaves is caused by leaf hoppers. They feed on the undersides of the leaves. The damaged leaf, first appears dark green, then yellows, browns, and the leaf begins to die off significantly. They eat with the veins of the plant leaf and create very angular feeding shapes. This angular pattern sometimes fools gardeners into believing it is a fugus or virus.

Leaf Hoppers Chew Leaf Undersides

Damage Progress Changes Color

I always recommended taking notes so you know when problems show up in the garden. They most likely will return the same time every year. Leaf hoppers tend to select taller more mature cucumbers plants but will attack what is available to them. I started my spray routine late this year, as I was away on vacation for 1 week. I prefer using peppermint oil as my main treatment for smaller soft bodied insects. You can spray this mix every 2-3 days for an outbreak over 3 or 4 cycles. It irritates, repels, and kills.

Peppermint Oil Insect Irritant Spray

1-2 tablespoons of pepper mint oil per gallon of water (I recommend 2)

1-3 teaspoons of dish or detergent soap (soaps vary and too much can damage leaves)

I recommend using Castille type soap as it is pure soap and mild. When using Castille pure soaps, I use 1-2 tablespoons per gallon. 

Oil will float on water and you need soap to disperse the oil through the mix. Soap will also kill soft bodied insects. 

Spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves, shaking regularly to keep the oil mixed in the water.

You can also use rosemary oil or a combination of both. You can find these at my seed and garden shop. If you don't purchase them from me, make sure to purchase pure oil and not an extract. The oil is potent and that is what you want to manage insects.

  

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To maintain healthy plants, spraying every 7-10 days is effective. Even though this spray mix is relatively mild, always test spray new sprays in your garden and wait 24-48 hours to see if they cause leaf damage.

"Good Luck in Your Gardens"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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How to Make Mason Jar Herb & Garlic Olive Oil Tomatoes: Recipe & Guidelines

One of the best ways to use cherry tomatoes grown in your garden, is to make herb and garlic olive oil tomatoes. They have a long refrigerated shelf life. I have kept some of them refrigerated for 12 months. They are best enjoyed by taking them out when needed, and letting them come to room temperature for several hours. I leave mine out overnight. Olive oil will thicken when refrigerated and return to its natural state as it warms.

Herb & Garlic Olive Oil Tomato Ingredients

Ingredients and Such:

Mason Jars 

Cherry Tomatoes

Fresh Herbs of Your Choice (I used Oregano & Basil)

Fresh Garlic

Olive Oil

Salt

Pepper

Mason jars come in different shapes and sizes and should be washed and prepped before using. We are not canning, but using the olive oil and refrigerator to store them for many months. You will need as  many jars, as you have cherry tomatoes. The oil preserves them and this is not a fermentation.

I cut fresh oregano and basil from my garden for this batch of cherry tomatoes but you can certainly add other herbs you enjoy. The herbs go in fresh, at the end, when filling the jars. Garlic and olive oil is one of my favorite flavor combinations. Use more or less garlic to your liking. You could omit it and go heavy on the herbs if it is something you don't enjoy.

I like to use one large clove per pint container and a bit less for smaller containers. Garlic is prepared by chopping or pressing the cloves and warming it in one cup of olive oil on the stove. Heat the oil and garlic, on low, for about 15 minutes. You do not want to brown and cook the garlic. You are releasing the garlic flavor and using it when the cherry tomatoes are jarred.

One Clove of Garlic Per Mason Jar

General Prep Steps:

Mince or press the garlic

Add 1 tablespoon of salt to the minced garlic and let it sit for 10 minutes to draw out liquid

Add the minced salted garlic to 1 cup of olive oil and warm on low for 15 minutes

Half the cherry tomatoes

Minced and Warmed in 1 Cup of Olive Oil

Additional salt is added to the mason jars, when filling, but salting takes some practice to match your taste preferences. Remember you can always add more salt when opening and using them, but you can't really remove it. I add 1 or 2 teaspoons to each jar based on size. Use more or less salt, as you wish.

Cherry Tomatoes Prepped for Jarring

The deliciousness success of this recipe is allowing the salt, herbs, garlic, and olive oil to enter the tomatoes and fill them with flavor. The tomatoes should be halved or have a hole poked in them. I like having different shapes and colors in the jar. 

The next step is pretty straight forward. Put in the herb bunches and hold them in place to the side of the jar and fill loosely with tomatoes to just below the top. Do not press them in tightly. Gently shake the jar so the tomatoes settle and there is enough space left on top for adding the warmed garlic and extra salt. 

Top With Olive Oil

Once filled, add 1 or 2 tablespoons of the minced warmed garlic. I like to also add a couple additional tablespoons of just the warm olive oil to each jar. I love garlic. I also slice some garlic cloves, thinly, and put them on top. Add 1-2 teaspoons of salt to the to top of the jar, and pepper to your liking. Fill the jar slowly with additional olive oil from the bottle, not the warmed olive oil. The olive oil should fully cover the ingredients and sit just below the top of the jar. Lid and let sit. 

Jarred Herb & Garlic Olive Oil Tomatoes

I leave the herb and garlic cherry tomatoes on the counter for 1 or 2 days and turn and shake them when I walk by them. This period of time, allows the ingredients to mix and the olive oil to move into the tomatoes. After a day or so, open the lid and top the jars off with additional olive oil and refrigerate. Olive oil will thicken when refrigerated so don't be alarmed. I like to wait 2 weeks before eating them to allow time for the flavors to mix.  If you need more information here is my quick video.

"Enjoy Your Garden and Enjoying Sharing"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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25 Tomato Varieties that Do Well in Humidity, Heat, and are Resistant to Early Blight: I Have Grown All of These in My Garden

I have been growing tomatoes for over 25 years.  While I have down sized the numbers of varieties I now grow, I do recommend growing a couple different new varieties with each season and taking notes on the issues that appear on the plants. There have been years were I have grown 35 different varieties of cherry type, small, medium, and large fruited tomatoes. I really enjoy watching each variety grow and seeing it how is does with respect to Maryland's heat, humidity, and the fungal disease that always shows up, the main one is commonly called early blight. 

Tomatoes From My Garden

Pruning, mulching, and spraying tomato plants is good practice for managing problems. It is also good practice to know the issues that come to your gardens and to look for disease resistant plant varieties as well and varieties that do better in your growing conditions, be it colder, extremally hot, or overly humid. Mixing in new tomato varieties to your garden, each year, allows you to test them out. Keep the ones that do well and discard the ones that don't manage the conditions and diseases that come to your garden.

Here is a list of tomatoes that do better in higher humidity, heat in the 90's at times, and against early blight. I have noted tomatoes from this list that I grew in the past and that 'Have Grown Well', and noted the varieties that are yearly 'Keepers' as they just did a bit better than the others. These plants still get yellow leaves and die off when their are drought periods and when temperatures stay elevated. They may get some leaf spots on leaves but respond quickly to antifungal sprays and continue growing. Varieties that have an asterisk do extremely well in my Maryland garden.

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Amish Paste
Fruit Size: Large (6 to 12 ounces)
Have Grown Well

Aunt Ruby's German Green
Fruit Size: Large (10-16 ounces)
Have Grown Well

*Arkansas Traveler
Fruit Size: Medium (4 to 8 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

Baxter's Bush Cherry
Fruit Size: Small (1-2 ounces)
Have Grown Well

Better Boy
Fruit size: Medium (8-10) ounces)
Have Grown Well

*Big Beef
Fruit Size: Large (10 to 12 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

*Celebrity
Fruit Size: Medium (6 to 8 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

Champion II
Fruit Size: Medium to Large (8 to 16 ounces)
Have Grown Well

Test Out New Tomato Varieties

Cherokee Purple
Fruit Size: Large (10 to 16 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

Costoluto Genovese
Fruit Size: Medium (4 to 6 ounces)
Have Grown Well

Delicious
Fruit Size: Large (10 to 16 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

*Early Girl 
Fruit size: Medium (6-8 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

*German Johnson
Fruit Size: Large (10 to 16 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper  

Gladiator
Fruit size: Large (8-12 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

*Golden Jubilee
Fruit Size: Large (6 to 8 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

Hawaiian Pineapple
Fruit Size: Large (12-16 ounces)
Have Grown Well

*Homestead
Fruit Size: Medium (6 to 10 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

*Juliet
Fruit Size: Small (1-2 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

*Marglobe 
Fruit Size: Medium fruit (6-10 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

*Matt's Wild Cherry
Fruit Size:  Small (1 ounce)
Have Grown Well

Mr. Stripey
Fruit Size: Large (8 to 16 ounces)
Have Grown Well

Park's Whopper
Fruit Size: Large (10 to 16 ounces)
Have Grown Well

Polish Linguisa
Fruit Size: Medium (6-8 ounces)
Have Grown Well

*Porter
Fruit Size: Small to Medium (2 to 4 ounces)
Have Grown Well and Keeper

Principe Borghese
Fruit Size: Small (2 ounces)
Have Grown Well

Please note that fruit size can vary based on growing conditions and care, so the size ranges provided are approximations.  Additionally, there are many more disease-resistant tomato varieties available, and each may have its unique characteristics. When selecting tomatoes for your garden, consider factors such as your specific climate, growing conditions, common diseases, and taste preferences to find the varieties you will enjoy growing, sharing, and eating.

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"A Garden Wants to Give"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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The Potential Cause and Treament for Deformed Tomato Bottoms or Tomato Catfacing?

Tomato catfacing is not a virus or fungus, it is a physiological disorder that affects the tomatoes development. It causes deformities and irregularities on the fruit, giving them a distorted appearance similar (in theory) to a cat's face, hence the name. However, I hope to never see a cat's face looking like some of my early distorted tomato bottoms. 

The deformities most often occur on the bottom but can also show up on the sides and top of the tomatoes.  Catfacing is most likely caused by environmental factors during fruit development. My belief is it is cause be temperature dips into the 40's in late spring and fall. You typically only see this occur on the first tomatoes of the season. However, there are other suggested reasons for it.

Tomato Catfacing or Bottom Deformaties

Causes of Tomato Catfacing or Bottom Deformations

Cool Temperatures During Flowering: 

Can disrupt the pollination process, leading to irregular fruit development and catfacing. This is what I have found to be most true over the years.

Treatment: Plant tomatoes well after the last frost date in your area to lower the risk to cold temperature dips during flowering. Temperatures falling in to the 40's Fahrenhiet or below 10 degrees Celsius are the typical temperatures of concern.


Extreme Temperature Fluctuations at Fruit Formation:

Rapid temperature fluctuations, especially from high heat days to cool nights may be the cause of catfacing. I have found higher temperature days leads to blossom drop or fruit drop but not tomato deformities.

Treatment: Maintaining consistent temperatures would be the only options and besides using shade cloth, there aren't many options to address temperatures.

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Excessive Nitrogen Fertilization: 

High levels of nitrogen can lead to vigorous vegetative growth. Fast growth is suggested as a cause to catfacing but I have seen little evidence of this.

Treatment: Use a balanced fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content, or avoid excessive nitrogen use once plants are established. 

Chemical Exposure or Spray Drift: Some chemicals, particularly those that kill weeds and grass may  disrupt fruit development and lead to catfacing. While this may be true, the entire tomato plant would be impacted and you would see distorted and twisted tomato leaves.

Treatment: Use chemicals and weed killers wisely. Try and avoid use around edible plants.


Genetic Factors: Certain tomato varieties are more susceptible to catfacing due to their genetics. I have found the heirloom tomatoes that produce larger tomatoes are more prone to deformations. But, only for the first few tomatoes when the flowers are forming during periods of potential cold night temperatures. I have not seen catfacing occur regularly over an entire season on tomato plant.

Treatment: Choose tomato varieties known for less catfacing, if this is a recurring problem with certain varieties grown in your garden.

Catfacing will not affect the taste or usability of the tomatoes. You can still eat them and use them as you wish. They are perfect for making tomato sauce. You may see this type of deformity occurring early in the season and again in the fall. Very rarely, if at all, is it an ongoing problem.

"A Garden Wants to Grow"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

Tomato Catfacing on Heirloom Tomatoes

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24 Frost Tolerant Vegetables You Can Plant for a Fall Garden and When to Plant Them

Planting a fall vegetable garden begins with knowing the average first frost date in your specific area. Typically, the first frost occurs in late October or early November in most parts of Maryland. The first frost often kills most warm-weather crops. Your cool-weather crops can take a frost and survive. The first frost date signals cooling temperatures in your garden and that is what the cool-weather crops need to thrive and mature without flowering or bolting.

Fall Garden Crops

To plan your fall garden, work backward from the first frost date to determine when to plant each crop. The strategy is to use the late summer warmth for crops that take longer to grow, but time it so maturity occurs when the fall temperatures are truly present. Plants like broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts benefit from 4-6 weeks of growth in warmer temperatures but develop best for harvest in the cool weather. You can use the following planting timeline as a general guide.

Mid to Late July: 

Plant fast-maturing warm-season crops for a late summer/early fall harvest, such as bush beans, cucumbers, and summer squash. Start transplants or direct seed cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower or other cold tolerant crops that take longer to mature. Cool weather crops that need 75-100 days to mature benefit from 4-6 weeks of summer warmth.

Early August: 

Direct seed, beets, carrots, turnips, and other root crops. Select early maturing varieties of cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower for direct seeding. Kale, chard, and collards can be direct seeded.

Mid to Late August: 

Start direct seeding your leafy greens like lettuces and spinach and fast growing root crops like radishes and early maturing turnips. You can plant these every 2 weeks through September. 

Early September: 

Continue to plant hardier crops that can withstand frequent frost and moderate prolonged frosts, Swiss chard, collard greens, radishes, and arugula fall into this category. This is the best time to direct sow mustard greens, Asian greens, and Asian cabbages like Bok Choy.

Mid to Late September: 

Finish up your final round of direct seeding the hardier cool weather crops.

Early October:

There may still be time for another round of arugula, radishes and Asian cool weather crops.

Late October and November:

Plant your hardneck garlic. If you use cold frames or row covers to extend the season, you can continue to plant leafy greens, radishes and other fast maturing cold loving cool weather crops.

Use a journal to keep track of when you start transplants, direct seed, and generally plant you fall garden crops. The information can be used year to year to adjust you planting schedule. I also recommend planting in succession which means plant faster growing crops, every 2 weeks. You can watch to see which ones mature fully (based on planting date) and do the best moving from the heat of the summer into the chill of fall.

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You could, for example, plant spinach and lettuce every 2 weeks starting August 15th through September 30th. Since the leaves of these crops can actually freeze and thaw, and not take damage, they can really grow until a heavy ground freezes arrive. Planted too soon, they may bolt and flower. The only way to get the planting timing of a fall garden is to experiment, observe, and take notes.  

24 Frost Tolerant Crops for Your Fall Garden & 3 Warm Crops to Plant

Arugula: Plant arugula seeds in September for a fall crop. Arugula is a fast-growing leafy green.

Beets: Plant beet seeds in early August.

Broccoli: Start broccoli indoors/outdoors in late June/Early July to transplant late July/Early August. This will give them enough time to mature before heavy frosts. Direct sow faster maturing varieties mid July through early August.

Brussels Sprouts: Start Brussels sprouts indoors/outdoors in late June/Early July to transplant late July/Early August. This will give them enough time to mature before heavy frosts. Direct sow faster maturing varieties mid July through early August.

Bush Beans: A warm crop for a final fall harvest. Late July through early August if you have first frost appearing late October.

Cabbage: Plant cabbage transplants in late July for a fall crop. Select cabbage varieties that are fast maturing for direct seeding in August. They can also be started as transplants in late June/Early July.

Carrots: Sow carrot seeds in Mid July through August for a fall harvest.

Cauliflower: Start cauliflower transplant indoors/outdoors in late June/Early July to transplant late July/Early August. This will give them enough time to mature before heavy frosts. Direct sow faster maturing varieties mid July through early August.

Chinese (Asian Type)  Cabbage: Direct sow late August through early September.  They will bolt (flower) if it is too warm.

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Collard Greens: Plant collards in late July or August for fall harvest. Collards are cold-tolerant and taste sweeter after a light frost. You can also start them for transplants in July.

Cucumbers: A warm crop for a final fall harvest. Late July through early August if you have first frost appearing late October.

Endive:  Endive can be direct seeded late July through early August for a delicious fall harvest. It is a longer maturing leafy green.

Garlic: Plant garlic cloves in late fall (and even early winter) for harvest the following summer.

Green Onions (Bunching Onions): Sow green onion seeds July through early August for a fall  and winter harvest. They are very cold hardy and overwinter in my Maryland garden.

Kale: Plant kale in late July or August for fall harvest. Kales are very cold-tolerant and taste sweeter after a light frost, like collards. You can start them for transplants in July. They also overwinter in my Maryland garden.

Kohlrabi: Kohlrabi can be sown directly in the garden during mid to late summer.

Leeks: Start leeks indoors in a tray or outdoors on a shady side of your home early July. Transplant them to the garden mid to late August. They are very cold hardy. You can also direct seed them but they can have issues germinating and growing with the summer heat.

Lettuce: Plant lettuce from mid August through early September for a continuous harvest. Choose heat-tolerant varieties for earlier summer plantings. They do need the cool weather to finish maturing or they often bolt.

Mache (Corn Salad): Mache is a cold-hardy green that can be direct sown in late summer through early fall.

Mustard Greens: Sow mustard green seeds directly in the garden in September for a fast-growing cold loving crop. The need the cool weather to prevent early bolting.

Parsnips: Parsnips are slow to mature, so plant them in late July for a fall or winter harvest.

Peas: Plant peas in mid to late August for a fall crop. The leaves can take a frost but flowers and peas can not. It is best to start peas through early and late August to get the timing down for fall harvest of peapods. 

 

Radishes: Radishes are quick to mature. Plant them in mid to late August to see if they mature well. The heat can effect them. Continue to plant them through September every 2 weeks. 

Spinach: Sow spinach seeds in August through early September for a fall and early winter crop of leafy greens.

Swiss Chard: Swiss chard is a cold-tolerant green that can be planted mid summer. It can take heavy frosts and does well in the heat of summer. It can be planted just about any time you wish.

Summer Squash/Zucchini: A warm crop for a final fall harvest. Late July through early August if you have first frost appearing late October.

Turnips: Turnips are easy to grow and can be sown late July through September for a fall and early winter harvest.

Frost on Lettuce Leaves

"Thanks for Being Part of The Rusted Garden"

Cheers!

Gary (TRG)

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12 Steps to Prevent & Manage Fungal Diseases on Tomato Plant Leaves: Identifying Septoria Leaf Spot and Early Blight

Of course, we love and want our tomato leaves to be green and healthy all the time but the truth is, especially lower tomato leaves, tend to yellow, brown, and get beat up over the growing season. Sometimes, and more often than not, this is normal die off. I wanted to address a pattern on leaves that often signifies Septoria leaf spot or early blight. This pattern is of concern and requires treatment.

When you see spots that are made up of  brown circles with circles or concentric rings, the pattern is most likely caused by the active fungus on the tomato leaf. Follow The Rusted Garden Journal as I will be writing extensively on how to identify problems in the garden. Today's focus is on identifying spots with concentric rings.

Addressing leaf spots first involves identifying the cause of the spots and then implementing appropriate treatment to address the issue. There are various types of leaf spots that can show up on tomato plants, including fungal, bacterial, and viral diseases. Here are some general guideline to address fungal issues and other problems on your tomato plants.

What are these spots on tomato leaves?

Identify the cause: 

Examine the spots on the tomato leaves and try to determine the cause. Fungal leaf spots often have distinct patterns and colors compared to bacterial or viral spots. This step is crucial because different problems require different treatments.

Keep a journal:
Write down the dates leaf problems show up on your garden plants. Make notes on that weeks temperatures, amount of rain, and humidity. This information can be used to create a prevention spraying routine for your garden.

Create and implement a preventative spraying routine:

Problems that show up once in a garden often return around the same time year to year. Creating a preventative spraying routine that starts two weeks before the problems arrive, can prevent the diseases from taking hold on your plants.

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Prune affected leaves: 

If the leaf spots are localized and not widespread, carefully prune the affected leaves to prevent the disease from spreading more quickly across plant leaves. It is more important to quickly implement a spray treatment to address fungal outbreaks on leaves than it is to remove leaves.

Improve air circulation: 

Ensure proper spacing between tomato plants to allow for adequate air circulation. Good airflow helps reduce humidity levels around the plants, which can inhibit the growth and spread of fungal diseases. It keeps the leaves drier and it lets in sunshine.

Water properly: 

Avoid overhead watering, especially in the evening, as wet foliage can promote the development of fungal diseases. Instead, water at the base of the plants early in the morning to give the leaves a chance to dry during the day. This is best practice but often not the main cause of spreading the diseases.

Mulch: 

Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plants. Mulching helps prevent soil-borne pathogens from splashing onto the lower leaves and reduces weed competition.  Weeds can often serve as a host for diseases. Continue to apply mulch over the season, as needed, to maintain a barrier between the soil and lower plant leaves.

Fungicides: 

If you determine that the leaf spots are caused by a fungal disease, consider using a fungicide. Copper-based fungicides (organic), baking soda spray (organic) wettable sulfur spray (organic) or those containing chlorothalonil (not organic) are commonly used for tomato diseases. Always test spray any new spray you use in the garden on a couple of leaves. Wait 24 hours to see if the spray causes damage before spraying your entire plant.

Crop rotation: 

Avoid planting tomatoes or other members of the Solanaceae family (peppers, eggplants) in the same location each year. Crop rotation can help reduce the buildup of soil-borne pathogens. This is more important on larger scale farms verses a typical home garden. General rotation in a home garden doesn't provide adequate distancing from the previous grow area.

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Resistant varieties: 

When selecting tomato varieties, look for those that are resistant to common tomato diseases, including leaf spots. Resistant varieties can significantly reduce the likelihood of disease development. The harder it is for a fungal disease to establish and take hold, the more effective your preventative spraying and management routines will be. 

Sanitation: 

Practice good garden hygiene by removing fallen leaves and plant debris. Clean garden tools after use to prevent the spread of the diseases or pathogens. This is best practice. It reduces the chances of future problems but remember the issues did show up when your garden was brand new. Spores float in the air and find weeds as hosts.

Monitor regularly:

Regularly inspect your tomato plants for any signs of leaf spots or other issues is one key to reducing significant outbreaks and crop loss. Early detection can help you take timely action before the problem becomes severe. Early detection is important as is the use of preventative spraying. 

Septoria Leaf Spot or Early Blight: Concentric Rings

It takes time to understand the patterns that 'will' show up on your tomato leaves year after year. It is common for tomato plants to have lower leaves that turn yellow, get brown patches, or just plain look beat up. We consider this normal die off that often occurs during the high heat periods of summer. The most important clue that there is a fungal issue like Septoria leaf spot or early blight is the concentric brown rings that form the brown spots and a yellow halo around the outer edge of the spots. The halo means the fungi are alive and active. After spraying, the brown spots will remain but the yellow halo will be gone indicating the fungus is no longer present.

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Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

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Identifying Fungal Issues on Tomato Leaves & Using Hydrogen Peroxide as a Treatment

First rule, always test spray any new sprays you use in your garden. Spray a few leaves and wait 24-48 hours for damage. If there are no issues, write down the recipe and spray away. Second rule, it is best to spray in the morning or early evening. Third rule, don't mix other ingredients with hydrogen peroxide. Fourth rule, learn what the patterns on leaves means so you know when or when not to panic, or calmly treat your tomato plants.

Basic 3% Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen Peroxide (3%) can be purchased at many locations. You do not need an organic stamp on it. H202 is used to actually clean the leaf and kill off any active fungal issues (spores) on the leaves. It does not prevent future fungal spores from showing up and taking hold but actually kills what is on there. You can use 4 ounces per gallon for general maintenance and leaf cleaning every 10-14 days to prevent leaf problems. You can use up to 8 ounce per gallon to treat outbreaks on your plant. If you have an out break, I recommend spraying every 3-5 days for 3 cycles to get things under control.  Spray the top and underside of the leaves well, including stems and fruits. It won't harm flowers or beneficial insects.

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1. 4 ounces of H202 in 1 gallon of water for maintenance spraying
2. 6-8 ounces of H202 in 1 gallon of water for managing outbreaks.
3. Start with the lower mix ratios and see how it works.

Basic Tomato Leaf Spraying

It is best to wait 24 hours, after spraying H202, before putting on any new sprays such as an antifungal like baking soda. Hydrogen Peroxide breaks down quickly, cleans the leaf, and is gone. You have to follow up with and antifungal to prevent future fungal issues from returning.  Or if you have lower disease pressure in your garden, you can just do maintenance H202 spraying.  The bottom line is to set up a routine of prevention spraying that works for you and stick to it. Your consistency with your spray and care routine is often more important than the actually sprays you choose.

Concentric Circles Means Tomato Leaf Fungi

It is very hard to identify every issue with tomato leaves as yellowing, die off, and appearance of fungi on weakened leaves is really normal and common. Especially when the high heat of the summer shows up. Watch my video for more details and examples on identifying leaf problems. They biggest sign you have fungal issues is not yellow or uniform brown patches on leaves. It is a pattern of brown circles within circles that is a sign you have a fungal outbreak. Smaller spots covering leaves is often a leaf spot fungal issue, larger spots are often a sign of early blight. The spots often have a yellow halo around them which signals, an active fungal outbreak. The above spray routine works on tomato leaf fungus in general. 

Hydrogen Peroxide, in theory, can be used on any plant in your garden. However, these ratios are what I tested for using them on tomato and pepper plants. Each time you try this spray on new plants, do a test spray. There is nothing sadder, I've been there, than defoliating plants because a spray that doesn't harm plant A damages plant B.

Here is a 2nd video that really goes in-depth on using hydrogen peroxide in your garden. The recipes and frequency may vary as I often tweak things year to year. There are 1000 ways to garden, so use what I teach as principles and adapt them to your garden needs.

"Good Luck in Your Gardens"

Cheers!

Gary (The Rusted Garden)

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel The Rusted Garden Homestead

Over 650,000 Subscribers and Over 2000 Garden Videos Designed to Quickly Present Information!

Visit The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop
for your Seeds, Starting Supplies, Fabric Pots, Neem Oil,
Peppermint and Other Oils, Calcium Nitrate and More.
The Rusted Garden Seed and Garden Shop