Pictures: Pictures of My Garden May 31st

Here are the pictures with a description of what's growing.

In the container are peas. This is also the container I use for growing tomatoes. The peas were planted in March. A tomato cage sits in the middle of that one. Cilantro from last year's plant seeds that dropped is up too. I've been cooking with eat and eating peas for the last week. That is my cabbage planted in April from a cell pack from Loews. Onions surround the plants. In about a week I will have cabbage.

Swiss Chard Bright Lights strain is in the back right corner. I have been cooking that and eating salads for over 2 weeks. It won't stop growing. I planted in late March too from a cell pack. Those are some of the peppers I have been selling. In the front right corner is a Russian kale and a heirloom mustard green. That is a another container of peas growing on bamboo poles. Oh and lettuce is in three white buckets. That was planted as seeds in April.

Smack in the middle is my asparagus I grew from seed. I was able to harvest it this year. This is the third year. That box will eventually be dedicate to asparagus only. Heirloom lettuces fill in space now. To the left are more cabbages and red cabbage. The bucket has spring onions. The red plant is a perennial dianthus.

A top view of one of my garden areas. You can see in the right corner some styro-foam cups. That is how I started my beans. I planted 3 or 4 varieties of beans down there. You can also see squash and zuchinni in the beds. Way in the back corner of the fence (click the pictures to enlarge) is a concord grape vine. I think it is 4 years old. It has about 200 or 300 bunches of grapes on it.

My other garden space. Black raspberries are behind the bench. Tomatoes, cucumbers, heirloom lettuce and peppers are in there. By the deck, on the bench you can see more of the tomatoes I didn't sell. 

Just a reminder what was around not to long ago.

Pictures: My Hot House Tomato Cage Tomato Plant

I planted this plant on April 5th. We had several days of frost and many cold nights. The tomato is large and flowering and I should have tomatoes sooner then later. The pictures are May 31st and April 5th or close to that. If you enlarge the picture you can see yellow heirloom beets to the far left, next to that is kohlrabi and speckled roman heirloom lettuce. Way in the back, in the container, is lemon grass.

If your interested in doing this next year here is the link to my Google Knol. I also think this would work  for peppers. Perhaps even used through June on peppers to create a real tropical environment. Hmm....

This is a slide show presentation too. How to Build a Hot House Tomato Cage

Trim Your Trees and Gain an Hour of Garden Light

In my quest to over-plant, I needed more sunlight. The trees in my yard and neighboring yards have been growing for 10 years. I'm losing sunlight but luckily my gardens tracks the movement of the sun. However, an extra hour of sun is an extra hour.

I moved my peppers to a hill garden. It's a 4 x 8 raised bed. I cut down tree limbs that were over shadowing it. It gives them about an extra hour of direct sunlight. You can identify which limbs shadow your garden by tapping branches if it's not already clear to you. The tap will shake the branch and the shadow will move on the garden.

You can also thin your trees out and this will give a lot of spaces more dappled or indirect sun light. That is better then full shade.

Thanks for the Help: Air, Circulation and Spacing for Vegetable Gardens

I want to thank everyone that came by. I still have a lot left. I am going to over-plant the gardens I decided. Both flowers and vegetables. My strategy is going to be air and circulation.  Live and learn, I suppose. I just don't like tossing plants. And that's after giving away stuff.

Did you every wonder what the planting instructions mean? 4 inch plant spacing and rows 12 inches apart for example. I don't know exactly what it means but I do know it is suppose to do with optimal growth for the plant.

That is all fine and good but a lot of other things go into optimal plant growth such as your regions temperature and probably more importantly humidity.  The quality of your garden soil makes a difference but how well you amend the actual planting hole of the plant may add to your plant spacing decisions. Fertilizing is a key too. I just saw the guy that grows mega vegetables in Alaska. No its not the endless sun, he says, but compost tea. He brews it.

Experimenting in our zone is the key to understanding how closely you can grow plants. Disease and pest control really become the main issues. If the garden is left untended, well it only takes a day for an infestation to occur. In a few days, your plants will have been used for the snail and insect population's breakfast, lunch and dinners. Disease or the spreading of disease is the other issue with gardens and more so sometimes for tightly planted gardens. If you live in an area that is windy, well the wind helps with the drying of leaves. In Maryland, we have the humidity. Might as well spell that as blight and mildew conditions.

In short, air circulation is one to plant spacing. If you space your tomatoes closely together make sure you have a good row space distance, before the next row of plants for wind to whip through and the sun to dry and shine on the garden.  There has to be enough space for wind and air to flow through to both dry your plants and blow away micro humidity climates that may form.  Each tomato plant doesn't necessarily need 3 feet around each side. You might do a row of plants 18 inches to 24 inches and include 4 plants. The next row should be at least 36 inches from the first row.  These aren't exact numbers. Experiment.

Pruning and thinning the plants (that need it) is important. Tomatoes have the biggest need. Removing weeds and clearing vegetable leaves from the base of the plant allow air to flow under them. The more circulation of air the dryer your beds. That bodes well for lower disease and pest risk.  The sun is the best antiseptic.  Let the sun shine in.

And finally, spacing let the birds in. The birds love slugs and leaf eating pests. The birds need to be able to see the pests and flutter around.  They just need a row to walk down, bird size of course. Turn the pests into a buffet for them.

Planting Tomatoes in Large Containers: No Garden No Problem.

How to Grow Tomatoes in an 18 Gallon Storage Container


by Gary Pilarchik LCSW-C

THE LINK FOR THE ARTICLE WITH PICTURES
http://knol.google.com/k/how-to-grow-tomatoes-in-an-18-gallon-storage-container-in-pictures#



This method of container gardening will work for any vegetable. The key to container gardening is matching the size of the container to the watering needs of the vegetable plants. A vegetable plant left in the sun, in a container that is to small, will dry out. No matter how vigilant you are with your watering, a day will come when the container drys completely out. This only needs to occur once and the health and productivity of your vegetable plant is severely effected. Watering and maintaining moisture is the key to successful container gardening. Fertilizing and maintaining your plant comes second.

Using an 18 gallon or similar storage container to grow you plants may not be as attractive as using a clay or fancy pot but it is by no means ugly. What you sacrifice in the way of the round more attractive containers, you gain back 10 fold in the productivity and health of your tomato and vegetable plants.



The Supplies

An 18 gallon storage container
2 cubic feet of garden soil per 18 gallon container
A bail of sphagnum peat moss (the above pictured size will be enough for 10 containers)
A bag of 10-10-10 fertilizer (the standard 40 pound bag will meet all your summer container needs)
A bag of pulverized lime (the standard 40 pound bag will meet all your summer container needs)
A six foot stake for tomatoes or other plants that need staking
A tape measure
A knife
Plants of your choice

These are the essential supplies. This Knol provides information on constructing the container and describes how to plant, grow and tend to a tomato plant. You can plant other vegetables in this type of container. Just keep in mind the size of the plant when it is mature. You don't want to create an over crowding problem.
Preparing the Container

Measure two inches from bottom on both sides of the container that contain the handles. Using a blade, cut a square hole on each side of the container at the two inch mark. The picture below should provide the perfect visual. Once that is done the container is prepared.
Many containers traditionally have either no holes for drainage or have a hole on the bottom of the container for drainage. The method I describe uses a hole 2 inches from the container's bottom. Water will occasionally sit in the bottom of the container. This will not cause a problem. You have drainage holes to prevent more then a two inch build up of water. You want to have that reservoir. The soil you are mixing will suck this water up quickly. This is a strategy to maintain moisture in your soil during the hot days of Summer.


Preparing the Soil

Dump 1 cubic foot of soil into the container. Your bag of soil is probably either a 1 cubic ft. or 2 cubic ft. bag. Sprinkle a 1/2 cup (I use an 8.5 oz Styro-Foam cup) of 10-10-10 fertilizer onto the soil. Also sprinkle a full cup of pulverized lime onto the soil. Add three heaping spade/shovel fulls of peat moss to the mix. Just for clarity sake your are using your large shovel not your hand shovel. Thoroughly mix the contents of your container together using the shovel.

Make sure the soil you buy is GARDEN SOIL and not TOP SOIL. You can also use POTTING SOIL. I use the Miracle Grow brand for my garden soil. I recommend using a brand that also provides 3 months of fertilizer. The plants in the container will need to be fertilized regularly. A tomato will use up the soil nutrients quickly. Since the soil is contained, the vegetable plants have limited space for their root systems to search for moisture and nutrients. Once the nutrients are gone, you will notice plants begin to yellow.

Dump 1 more cubic foot of soil into the container. Sprinkle 1 more cup of pulverized lime onto the soil and mix everything together. Four or five turns with your shovel is fine. The peat moss provides extra matter to retain moisture. The pulverized lime not only neutralizes the acidity of the peat moss but it adds calcium and magnesium to your soil. Calcium helps prevent blossom end rot in tomatoes.

There should be about 4 inches of space left in your container. The four inches of space allows you to easily water your plants and it provides space for mulching. I use grass clippings as mulch. Mulching the top 4 inches of your container will help manage moisture. Remember watering and moisture control is the key to successful container planting.


Planting the Tomato

You will notice I pinched off a few branches of leaves from the stem. In this type of container you want to get about 6-8 inches of the root ball and stem into the hole. Tomatoes are vines. The stem the gets buried will actually grow roots. A deeper planting will provide you container tomato a bit more stability. The tomato will also get staked. The tomato should be planted in the center of the container. If you transplant is smaller then the one in the picture, plant it at 1/2 its total height. That's it, your done.


Tending and Maintaining Your 18 Gallon Container Garden

Water it every other day thoroughly. On consecutive 90 degree days when the tomato or vegetables are mature, you may need to water the plants daily. Soak the container until water drips out the holes on the bottom.

You can check your plant for moisture by poking your finger into on of the holes you cut. If the soil is dry, you should water it quickly. Don't wait for it to dry out.

You loaded the soil up with fertilizer when you filled the container. It should easily fertilize the plants 4 or 5 weeks. After that, I recommend 1 gallon of water soluble fertilizer weekly. Just 1 gallon.

You should mulch up the container as soon as you can to help with moisture management.

You will have to prune your tomato as it grows and tie it to the stake.

I use a touch of Sevin dust for insect problems as needed. You can search the web for alternatives.

I use an 18 gallon container because I can move it. If you have shade issues you can move the container around as the sun moves.

I also tucked in two endive lettuce plants (front) and some basil and cilantro (back). The endive will mature in about 10 days and it will be harvested. It won't compete with the tomato. The herbs will grow for about 3 weeks before they bolt. That will leave the tomato alone without competition as it matures. As the tomato matures, I will also tuck in more cilantro and basil. The container can handle one mature tomato and 2 or 3 annual herbs.


Other Vegetables

The 18 gallon container can be used to grow other vegetables.

Two peppers per container
One squash or one zucchini bush type plant per container
Two bush cucumbers per container
One vine cucumber or one vine squash per container (you will need a trellis of some sort)
One water melon, cantaloupe or similar per container (you do need room for the vine to run)
One pumpkin per container (you do need room for the vine to run)
Six to eight heads of lettuce per container.
Eight to twelve pea plants per container (you will need a trellis of some sort)
Dozen of herbs per container
Don't be afraid to experiment. See what you can grow. This is a great way to garden if you have limited space or if you just want to grow more vegetables.

You can find these just about anywhere. They are great for growing vegetables. The containers I found were about $7 at Loews or Home Depot.