FB HEADER

Search The Rusted Garden Journal: Just Enter a Key Word or Phrase

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Seed Starting Peas Indoors & Container Plantings: Get Peas 4 Weeks Early!

Seed Starting Peas Indoors & Container Plantings

I once believed peas were fragile and could not take frost. I was wrong. I once believed peas should not be started indoors. I was wrong. Peas are a great early spring, late winter, crop that can take light frost and they do well when started indoors.

Peas can handle the cold. They can't handle prolonged freezing temperatures and that is what I have in my area right now. But I can start them indoors, transplant them into containers and move them in and out of my house as weather dictates.

Why do this? I can get peas a full month early! Peas can be grown in containers as the weather creeps back into the 40's. They will grow extremely well. The earth beds, and even raised beds, are often too cold and too soggy during this time. Peas planted in soggy cold earth will typically mold and rot. That is were indoor seed starting and container plantings for peas come into action.





Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Managing A Garden Grow-Light Station: Lighting and Watering

Indoor Grow-Light Stations: How Much Light and Water?

This is my 2nd video using this collapisble grow-light station that can be made for under $40. I will included both videos. This video will present some solid guidelines for lighting. How close should the seedlings be to the light? How long should I leave the lights on? And,  it will show you some basic ways to easily adjust the light fixture. Watering should always be done from the bottom.

Use a Timer:
Use a timer to control your lights. It saves you time! You can adjust the light time at 10, 12 or 14 hours depending on the plants and growth. But... keep it simple and set it for 12 hours. That will work.


Light the New Seeds:
Yes. Absolutely turn the lights on using the timer when first planting the seeds. Treat the top of the starting mix as if it were the plant leaves. Sometimes you may say... "I can save money and turn the timer on in few days." I tried that and I often missed the germination. The lack of light at germination will make your seedlings 'leggy'.

1-2 Inches Above Seedlings:
Keep the light source 1-2 inches above your seedlings. When your plant gets several inches high and have many leaves, you can expand the distance. You want to make sure you provide enough light in the first several weeks, so you plants don't get 'leggy' having to reach toward the light.

Always! Bottom Water:
Bottoming watering will save you time, prevent disease spread and reduce the risk of distrubing newly planted seeds. And it is easy! After 20-30 minutes dump out whatever water didn't get absorbed by the seed cells.

Create a Reflective Wall:
Use the reflective side of aluminum foil to reflect light back toward your seedling flats. It works and greatly increases the amount of light your seedlings get from their sides and from the edges of the cell flats.


The video will take you through all these points and I included the original video that shows you how to build this grow-light station for under $40.







Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

Saturday, February 2, 2013

Using Cinnamon on Seedlings: Stop 'Damping Off' Diseases!

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel The Rusted Garden
Over 800 Garden Videos Designed to Quickly Present Information!

Please Support The Rusted Garden by Shopping through my Amazon Affiliate Link

Using Cinnamon to Prevent and Stop 'Damping Off' Diseases on Seedlings


Cinnamon has some anti-fungal qualities and it smells great as a bonus.

'Damping Off' diseases are the bane of seedlings. It is the gray white furry fungus that forms on the stems of your seedling right where they meet the starting mix. It happens because the conditions are right. I recommend against using clear plastic domes because it creates a perfect humid disease environment. Most fungi and related need moisture to spread. However, even without the dome... some seedling cells get the disease. Notice the dead thin stems at the base of my flower seedlings.


"Damping Off' Diseases - The Rusted Garden Blog

I have about 8 flats going without the dome. You want the top soil/starting mix to be dry as so it doesn't promote disease. Bottom watering keeps the cells moist.  I practice 2 principles to reduce 'damping off' diseases and I want to introduce a third that I think makes great sense and it is logical.
  1. Water from the bottom
  2. Don't use the plastic dome
  3. Sprinkle cinnamon on your seed cells
Why add a third? Some of my cells still got fungi. Not many - but enough. The reason the diseases didn't spread like wild-fire was because I practice the first 2 principles. I added a sprinkle of cinnamon on the cells that got the disease. Out of 8 flats which is about 250+ cells, only 5 got the disease. It killed the seedlings. 

Cinnamon to Treat & Prevent 'Damping Off' Diseases - The Rusted Garden Blog

I sprinkled cinnamon on the infected seedlings as a way to kill off the fungi or 'damping off' disease and stop its potential spread. You could also lightly sprinkle your starting mix with cinnamon right after the seeds are planted. I have not  done this yet but will be doing it. You can, in addition, also use the cinnamon at first signs of the disease and sprinkle the infected cell and surrounding cells. That is your choice. I think cinnamon makes a great third defense against diseases that may attack your seedlings.



Seedling Fungi - The Rusted Garden Blog
'Damping Off' Diseases on Seedlings - The Rusted Garden Blog


Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

General GSC Branding Auto-Updatingbutton

Thursday, January 31, 2013

Planting Spring Peas: Container Plantings

Planting Spring Peas:Container Plantings

Coming Soon: Lettuces, Kales, and Other Early Spring Greens

Peas love the cold and can handle the frost. What they don't like is prolonged wet cold soggy soil. It often leads to their death. A bit less dramatically... they mold and don't germinate. I am in Maryland Zone 7 and you can give peas a try, starting in late February if you want to push it. Container plantings can help you do this.

Planting Container Peas - The Rusted Garden Blog

The key for peas is to plant them several different ways over many weeks, until you get a batch that sprouts and takes. If you do this in your area, you will get a sense of when the best time is to plant them come the following years of gardening. In my area you can start late February and plant through mid April for best success.

The key for peas is to get them in the ground when the soil isn't frozen and isn't soggy. Some slightly warmer days (50'S) mixed with cold and little rain... brings them to germination. That is hard to predict though. Once they get established they can do their thing. Late winters and early springs are tricky when it comes to weather. A rainy soggy week could knock out most of your peas. That why it is important to plant a patch every week or 10 days until some take. You don't want to be waiting around for them to sprout when they died out.

I recommend planting peas in the later winter and early spring using different methods.  The way I most recommend in the early part of the planting season is in 5 gallon containers.


Container Peas - The Rusted Garden Blog

Peas fix their own nitrogen and can handle old container soil. But if you have the option, new container soil is the best way to go. Any basic bagged gardening soil will work. Just fill a 5 gallon container with soil and poke drainage holes in the bottom.

The peas should be planted about 1 inch deep and you can plant 5 to 8 peas per container. You can plant two peas to a hole and thin as you see fit.  It is a good  practice to use 2 seeds in case one doesn't germinate. You can always remove plants. Peas, although they can handle the frost, are fragile and have hollow stems. They need to climb and grow up supports. They break very easily if they don't have something to grab onto and climb. I recommend a tomato cage or several tomato stakes for containers.

The containers help to mitigate the cold sogginess of late winter and early spring. Container peas warm faster and the conditions are better suited for getting those early peas germinating and growing.










Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest

Videos: Everything About Seed Startng Indoors

I am in the process of reorganizing my blog and videos. I am making pages of specific categories.

I just completed a page that shows you everything you need to know to plant seeds indoors. It focuses on preparing the starting mix and seeds cells. Lots of examples of how to plant different vegetables, perennials and herbs. There is also a video on building a grow-light station.

Everything You Need to Know About Starting Seeds Indoors



Join My Google+ Community Our Tomato and Vegetable Gardens (600+ Members!)
Over 100 HD Garden Videos: Join My YouTube Video Gardening Channel
Follow and Organize The Rusted Garden on Pinterest